Using just a ratchet and socket, I can't get them on there because of the belt. If I use a deep socket, the ratchet won't clear the chassis. Help please.

 

i too am interested in how to do this with the power steering pump on also... because i recently replaced my timing belt and didnt get the adjustment tight enough on the alternator belt and it squeeks a little on startup.

 

How did you replace the belt in the first place without loosening this bolt?

It's impossible to even come close to doing with the the ps pump mounted. I left all the hose/lines attached on the pump, and removed the three bolts holding it on. Then just kind of lift it out of the way a bit. Gives a ton more room. Otherwise, it would've been tough even getting to the mounting bolt.

But yea, even the crank pulley bolt out, the pulley won't come free. Is it because of the tension from alternator belt, or because it's sort of seized on?

 

It's the tension from the belt. I usually use a standard depth socket, IIRC. Or a ratcheting wrench. You need to get the belts loose to get the crank pulley off.

You removed the PS belt already, right?

 

I've got the ps belt off.

 

Just use a regular socket and ratchet. Try to get to it from below, if you can get around the AC compressor. My track car doesn't have AC or PS, so it's really easy for me to get to that bolt.

 

I use a deep socket on a ratchet, but I have a 1/2 rad so I have more space I think?

 

Nah, you're talking about the adjusting bolt facing the radiator. I'm talking about the one below alternator. I tried using a deep socket too, but my 3/8" socket didn't clear the chassis by a very small amount.

Which bolt/nut are you talking about? What ratchet are you using?

 

Just get a wrench in there inside of the loop of the belt. It won't take that long...

 

Yea, yea I tried that. The thing wasn't moving. Time to go pull harder.

 

I was talking the ones that face the drivers wheelwell, I use a deep 12 mm socket and regualr ole 3/8 ratchet, works fine for me, the front one I use lil 1/4 stuff on to fit before I swapped rads.

I would go double check, but its all pulled apart waiting for new h20 pump and timing belt/ cam gears.

 

What brand ratchet? My craftsman in combination with a deep socket won't clear the chassis. If I can't get this off by tommorow, it's getting cut.

 

lol craftsman, with the push button release and swivel selector. and a shallow socket wont fit either? what about a 12 mm wrench and just lots of fun adjusting your hand in there? Or did they just get cranked on by superman or something and you cant get enough leverage to get it on there and loosen it?

 

nevermind I got ambitious and went downstairs to the garage and looked, alt is still on the car lol, and yeah I just use a 12 mm wrench on it, should fit fine even with ps and a/c stuff all there.

 

ha i've never had a problem with that nut.... but i dont have ps or ac, but i dont remember it being a problem when i had those.

 

yeah its a bit fun to get the wrench by the belt with a/c caus the belt goes straight down to a/c comp instead of back to the crank with only alt, but I do remember its doable!

Ok just read a post up further better, are you trying this from the top or bottom? I say from the top is easier, and just get your weight into it to pop it if needed. Also worse comes to worse just cut the dang belt to get to it, and buy a new belt.

 

try a 1/4 drive deep socket, that should be a tad shorter.

 

Good idea Shawn. I ended up cutting it though, so I could get the rest of the work done. It's only a few bucks at Napa. I tried putting the ratchet in the belt loop. The whole motor was lifting with the side mount out, but it didn't even budge.

 

I have the same squeak on a cold start, is it more than just a nuisance noise?

 

Ralleh: "I have the same squeak on a cold start, is it more than just a nuisance noise?"

that means that one of your drive belts are loose... in my case, it is my alternator belt... but i am unable to tighten it unless i take off my power steering pump to get some room.