My Setup:

1992 JDM B16A
around 15-20K miles since rebuild
Head Milled .020”
3 angle valve job
Buddy Club Spec 3+ Cams
Skunk 2 Cam Gears
Supertech dual valve springs and Titanium Retainers
Type R LMAs
Walbro 190lph Fuel Pump
Marshall Shock proof Fuel Pressure gauge
B&M adjustable FPR
STR Fuel Rail
Skunk 2 intake Manifold
OBX 4-2-1 Header
Greddy MX cat-back Exhaust
AEM short ram air intake
PR3-J JDM ECU chipped with Uberdata Tune



My ideas:

1. New ECU retuned with Neptune
2. Header
3. Cams... but I'm a little reluctant to go bigger because of the head having been milled. I don't want to break open the motor to get it clayed.

Just looking for a tad it more. This car is my daily driver so I don't want to get too crazy. That's what my other Honda is for.

 

find a used toda header, it would do absolute wonder on a b16

 

1. I would send the head to Tom @ Portflow for Port/polish

2. 81.5mm CTR pistons

3. Ebay Tri-Y header

4. 65MM TB

If this can't net u 180whp then there's no need to built a B16 engine....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20vtech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. I would send the head to Tom @ Portflow for Port/polish

2. 81.5mm CTR pistons

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't really want to have to tear into the motor and send stuff off. I want to keep the downtime to a minimum.

 

b20 block.

 

well duh.

I have been searching for a GSR or ITR shortblock to purchase though. But then I would have to go through the pain of pulling my head, pulling the block, etc...

 

Tom at Portflow gets stuff done real quick.

What i would do.

1. Camshafts - Pro1's or M22 series from RM. Both camshafts will make great power on the little 1.6. Theres really no need to pull the motor apart to clay, if the motor is what you say it is. Milling the head .020 does reduce your p2v clearance, but with a little common sense you can get away with not claying them.

2. Real Deal VJ and Headwork. Dont compromise good work just because you are in a hurry and "dont want to ship stuff off". When you get good, high quality components back, it is worth the wait.

3. Ditch the OBX for the small tube hytech/rage/whoisdan/snakescomingfromyourengine header.

Id bet money that will net you over your 180hp goal by a few ponies.

 

should only take a day considering the block you purchase is in good condition.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The_Head &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> But then I would have to go through the pain of pulling my head, pulling the block, etc...</TD></TR></TABLE>

No offense, but it sounds to me like you have absolutely no mechanical skills what so ever. Swapping a shortblock is an EASY day project.

If you were to buy cams, could you change those?

 

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=4

change the header.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zap &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=4

change the header. </TD></TR></TABLE>

U dont have nay other option..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No offense, but it sounds to me like you have absolutely no mechanical skills what so ever. Swapping a shortblock is an EASY day project.</TD></TR></TABLE>

None taken. I've done it before it's just that I just don't have a garage or the required tools, or the time.

So, what's a good header that will clear the front crossmember of the DA chassis?

 

You should get a traction bar and then you could use any header.


For a DA just get a B20, replace the oil pump, water pump, bearings and you be at 185 whp easy.

 

No garage needed. I swapped my blown Y7 in my street, didn't even have a regular floor jack or engine hoist.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The_Head &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So, what's a good header that will clear the front crossmember of the DA chassis?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Toda

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No garage needed. I swapped my blown Y7 in my street, didn't even have a regular floor jack or engine hoist.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, thats me this weekend.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


snakescomingfromyourengine header.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
WTF?? LOL