Seizing brakes
I had a mushy brake pedal and had it replaced and from there started the problems.
He had forgotten to adjust the push rod clearance and it cost me 3 brake calipers till he found that out. The brakes would seize up solid. The brake pedal will not go down at all.
Even after adjusting the clearance several times the problem persists. Now he says he has turned the adj. screw in the master cyl as far back as it would go.
I now carry a size 10 wrench with me where ever I go. As soon as it seizes up I get under and loosen the bleed nut on both sides. As soon as the pressure is released the brake pedal is back to normal and I am good to go for the next few hours.
What do you think the problem is ? Has it something to do with the abs circuitry. I have small leak from the abs sensor, could this cause it ? Or a faulty master cylinder ?
Thanks in advance.
J
He had forgotten to adjust the push rod clearance and it cost me 3 brake calipers till he found that out. The brakes would seize up solid. The brake pedal will not go down at all.
Even after adjusting the clearance several times the problem persists. Now he says he has turned the adj. screw in the master cyl as far back as it would go.
I now carry a size 10 wrench with me where ever I go. As soon as it seizes up I get under and loosen the bleed nut on both sides. As soon as the pressure is released the brake pedal is back to normal and I am good to go for the next few hours.
What do you think the problem is ? Has it something to do with the abs circuitry. I have small leak from the abs sensor, could this cause it ? Or a faulty master cylinder ?
Thanks in advance.
J
Hehehe...
I'm not saying for sure this is the problem, but that EXACT thing happened to me when I removed my ABS and I had a non-ABS master cylinder mixed with an ABS brake booster. Double check part numbers and make sure your mechanic didn't get anything mixed up...you need either ALL non-ABS parts or ALL ABS parts (including the bracket that bolts the pedal to the booster).
You should not have to adjust the master cylinder or the booster if you got decent parts.
I'm not saying for sure this is the problem, but that EXACT thing happened to me when I removed my ABS and I had a non-ABS master cylinder mixed with an ABS brake booster. Double check part numbers and make sure your mechanic didn't get anything mixed up...you need either ALL non-ABS parts or ALL ABS parts (including the bracket that bolts the pedal to the booster).
You should not have to adjust the master cylinder or the booster if you got decent parts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaideep_asokan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Non ABS master cylinder.
I will check that out.
Thanks
Jai</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not only that specific thing, but you should also check the brake booster and make sure it goes with the master cylinder. All ABS parts or all non-ABS parts
Non ABS master cylinder.
I will check that out.
Thanks
Jai</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not only that specific thing, but you should also check the brake booster and make sure it goes with the master cylinder. All ABS parts or all non-ABS parts
Mine is a 1992 Prelude SR with ABS and the service manual does not mention any push rod clearance adjustment in the ABS section. It does mention it in the non abs section.
Since the master cyl that I have in the car has a push rod adjustment screw that we have been tweaking for the past 3 months is it safe to assume that I have a non abs master cylinder in an abs system ? I have also noticed it is really hard to get the shift lever to get in and out of the park position. If I press the pedal real hard and pull it to drive or reverse then I can expect the brakes to seize up in about 10 minutes. And they take less time to seize up in stop and go traffic.
Thanks
Jai
Since the master cyl that I have in the car has a push rod adjustment screw that we have been tweaking for the past 3 months is it safe to assume that I have a non abs master cylinder in an abs system ? I have also noticed it is really hard to get the shift lever to get in and out of the park position. If I press the pedal real hard and pull it to drive or reverse then I can expect the brakes to seize up in about 10 minutes. And they take less time to seize up in stop and go traffic.
Thanks
Jai
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if your having trouble switching from park the more than likely your brake switch is going out or needs to be adjusted and if thats what youve been adjusting thats not an adjustment for the brakes just brake lights, and if thats what it is then your calipers are probably locking up or your brake lines are colapsing good luck
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digitalayon
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Mar 13, 2005 02:48 AM




