i cant get this damn mini me to work right. it has started to smoke and shhot pure gas out of the exhaust. is that a simptom of a bent valve? i read just about every mini me thread on every forum, and i keep getting micxed answeres everywhere

also, when my motor is set to tdc all the timing markes are correct, but my rotor is not on #1 it is on what i think would be #4 (in the back) when the car starts up, if i pull #1 or $ spark plug off the car runs the same, if i pull 2 or 3 it shus off

its coinverted to odb1 using p28 and z6 distributior

 

Sounds like you need to advance the timing, just get an adjustable cam gear, that is the cheapest fix. But to be honest it could be multiple things seeing that the computer & setup you are using is not made for the higher compression that the mini-me will make over the z6. I would suggest if you want it to run better a FPR, Adj. cam gear, and a good tune. Gas coming out of your exhaust just means your not fully combusting your fuel, i.e. advanced timing, lower Fuel pressure = clean fumes GL

sorry for bad grammer and sentence structure I'm @ work!

Just remember your set up is not OEM so some tuning and aftermarket products are needed for it to run right.

 

i was planning on getting my p28 chipped to run crome. i heard timing adjustments ccould be made from there. but in the mean time i am looking for an adjustable cam gear. i am going to my other house, i do have a cheapo fpr there, ill grab it to see what i can do.

 

what should my fuel pressure be set to? how far should i adjust the timing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89efDUSTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like you need to advance the timing, just get an adjustable cam gear, that is the cheapest fix. But to be honest it could be multiple things seeing that the computer & setup you are using is not made for the higher compression that the mini-me will make over the z6. I would suggest if you want it to run better a FPR, Adj. cam gear, and a good tune. Gas coming out of your exhaust just means your not fully combusting your fuel, i.e. advanced timing, lower Fuel pressure = clean fumes GL

sorry for bad grammer and sentence structure I'm @ work!

Just remember your set up is not OEM so some tuning and aftermarket products are needed for it to run right. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you frickin serious guy? Raw fuel just means you're running rich? And if your engine is 180 out, the best thing to do is buy a cam gear? Wow. It's guys like you that make people f*ck up thier cars because you sound so confident, yet know nothing.


Everything needs to be set to stock specs to begin with- that will make the car run, and reasonably well. The reason you're throwing fuel out the exhaust is because you've got a phat misfire on 2 cyl's- the ones where nothing happens with the wires pulled- fuel goes in, sits there, and then spits out the exhaust valve. your valves are most likely fine and you don't need a cam gear. You do need a friend to come over and check it out for you instead of listening to doofus here...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr.carvorkian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are you frickin serious guy? Raw fuel just means you're running rich? And if your engine is 180 out, the best thing to do is buy a cam gear? Wow. It's guys like you that make people f*ck up thier cars because you sound so confident, yet know nothing. </TD></TR></TABLE>



OP: First thing you want to do is get those other 2 cylinders running. Is the plug wire firing order correct? Is the rotor on 180* off? Some dizzy's don't have the groove on the rotor shaft so you can put it on the wrong way. Is it in an Si or DX? Did you do any wiring other than the obd1 conversion harness and adding wires for vtec? If you have an Si you can try putting your PM6 back in and jimmy rig the a6 dizzy back up and see how it runs (just won't have the mad v-tak).

 

the car is a 91 civic std. but i rewired it with the complete harness from an 89 si. i am usinng an obd1 conversion harness and a p28 computer. toe bottom end is the 89 si d16a6. the head, distributor, headgasket, timing belt are all d16z6. if i am not mistaking both sides of the rotor shaft where notched differently and it could only go in one way, ill try to flip it around again tomarrow. but to defend the othere guy, i read alot of other mini me timing post in the ef section and all there problems where solved with an adjustable cam gear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SQ is the SQUAD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the car is a 91 civic std. but i rewired it with the complete harness from an 89 si. i am usinng an obd1 conversion harness and a p28 computer. toe bottom end is the 89 si d16a6. the head, distributor, headgasket, timing belt are all d16z6. if i am not mistaking both sides of the rotor shaft where notched differently and it could only go in one way, ill try to flip it around again tomarrow. but to defend the othere guy, i read alot of other mini me timing post in the ef section and all there problems where solved with an adjustable cam gear.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If it was the cam timing it would be running crappy on all 4 cylinders, it wouldn't cause 2 to not run. Did you do all this wiring at the same time as the swap? Or did you do the wiring before and have been running an MPFI motor already? When you say you swapped the "complete harness" you mean interior and engine bay? Have you checked for spark?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr.carvorkian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are you frickin serious guy? Raw fuel just means you're running rich? And if your engine is 180 out, the best thing to do is buy a cam gear? Wow. It's guys like you that make people f*ck up thier cars because you sound so confident, yet know nothing.


Everything needs to be set to stock specs to begin with- that will make the car run, and reasonably well. The reason you're throwing fuel out the exhaust is because you've got a phat misfire on 2 cyl's- the ones where nothing happens with the wires pulled- fuel goes in, sits there, and then spits out the exhaust valve. your valves are most likely fine and you don't need a cam gear. You do need a friend to come over and check it out for you instead of listening to doofus here...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes set a non-OEM motor to specs come on now.
Seriously I just had the same thing happening to my mini me , when you run it you need to advance the timing to help out the higher compression. MY bad I did not read the part about the misfire, I just read the first part because @ work I have small windows so to me. Yes OP make sure it is running on all four cylinders and then see how it is, if it is still running rich "smelling /seeing gas out hte back" then advance it to compensate for the difference in compression!




Modified by 89efDUSTY at 1:13 PM 9/29/2007

 

i have spark on all 4, if i dident have spark the car wouldent run at all. yes i swapped the complete harness. motor and interior.. no, i did not do the wiring first, i did everything together.

 

I didn't feel like reading everything, but I had the same problem...shooting gas out of the head (in my case, 'cuz the exhaust wasn't tight on the header). I had bad injectors. THey would just stay stuck open and they were just shooting out gas. I also had a bad resistor box and was throwing code 16 (I think), fuel system.

Check those, and see what's up.

 

Are you 100% sure pure gas is coming out of your exhaust and not condensation?

If it's pure gas, there can only be a few problems (if you have clean spark in all 4 cylinders) so try to narrow it down:

1) Re-check your timing (most important and sounds like the probable cause of your problem)
2) Check your wiring
3) Check your injectors to see if one or more are stuck open
4) Check your ECU
5) What pressure are you running your FPR at?
6) What codes are you throwing?

Best of luck .

 

<FONT SIZE="4">STOP!!!!!

when did it start doing this? </FONT>

 

its been this way since i did the sawp, it never ran correctly. i do not have the aftermarket fpr set up yet, what psi should i have it set to. i got like 7 different resistor boxes laying around, ill double check and try another. i am pretty sure its pure gas, it leaves a nice stain on my black top.

 

call ryan at rywire. its one wire for your dpfi to mpfi swap. i forgot which it is, he'll tell you and it'll work correctly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SQ is the SQUAD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when the car starts up, if i pull #1 or $ spark plug off the car runs the same, if i pull 2 or 3 it shus off</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SQ is the SQUAD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have spark on all 4, if i dident have spark the car wouldent run at all. yes i swapped the complete harness. motor and interior.. no, i did not do the wiring first, i did everything together.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whoa whoa, hold up there. In your first post you said it's only running on 2 cylinders. So which is it?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">call ryan at rywire. its one wire for your dpfi to mpfi swap. i forgot which it is, he'll tell you and it'll work correctly. </TD></TR></TABLE>

He said he swapped the wiring harnesses from an Si so he should be just using the standard MPFI obd0-obd1 conversion harness.

 

you misunderstood me, all 4 plugs are firing, but only 2 chambers are combusting, the other 2 are just dumping raw gas

 

Sounds like flooding...stuck injectors or faulty wiring harness...which has also happened to me and had been the cause of gas out of the exhaust...

 

i am going to buy a new rotor and make sure its on the correct way. it worse comes to wors ill throw in the pm6, put on the a6 distributor and see what happens, but everything i am using ran fine before i pulled it out of my si parts car

 

i pulled the head today, at first i was pissed because none of the valves look bent and there wasent no sign of contact. but i did a water test and one of the exhaust valves on cly#1 had a slight leak in it. none of the other valves leaked but when i bring it to the machine shop ill have all of them checked and have the seals replaced with a 3 angle valve job

p.s. in cylender #4 i forget what side, i wanna say intake, there is a hole inside the chamber. it loos to be threaded and i just wanted to ask what it was, never seen it beofre. i am not worried cuz the cylender came up with a 220 compression

 

just move ur distributor until u see no more raw gas cheapest easiest way to time it

 

i got a bent exhaust valve, so alot of gas was beiung pushed out before it was igniteded