Best ECU
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coolicedragon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have talk with some people and they say that this ECU [P28 92-95 OBD1 Civic Si/Ex (SOHC VTEC D16Z6)] is the best one to put in my 5th gen. Is this true?
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You need to jump on and <FONT COLOR="red">SEARCH</FONT> it up man......just swapping ECUs doesn't really do anything. Theres alot more to it than that!
<FONT COLOR="red">SEARCH</FONT> I know theres over 2,000,000 threads on here, the <FONT COLOR="red">SEARCH</FONT> button will help.
**In before the lock**
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You need to jump on and <FONT COLOR="red">SEARCH</FONT> it up man......just swapping ECUs doesn't really do anything. Theres alot more to it than that!
<FONT COLOR="red">SEARCH</FONT> I know theres over 2,000,000 threads on here, the <FONT COLOR="red">SEARCH</FONT> button will help.
**In before the lock**
Searching yields results on info of how to make an informed choice.
This post is mostly for the 92-95 H22 or H23 people. If you have a 96+ motor, this post will assume you've got the OBD2->OBD1 conversion harness ready to install with whatever ECU choice you make. The only thing you need to do to convert an OBD2 car to OBD1 is install the harness. Some people will tell you that you have to change distributors because of the crank position sensor, but that is incorrect.
First, a note about chipping: Chipping is the process of socketing a stock ECU so that new fuel/timing maps can be burned onto a ROM and used to replace your stock ROM. There are lots of "programs" available, some are ok, some are crap. If you decide to chip your ECU, be VERY careful what program you choose to run. Always ask the person selling you the chipped program to tell you EXACTLY what kinds of modifications have been made to the stock map before you install it (have them tell you where VTEC crossover is, specifically what changes have been made to the timing and fuel maps, where the rev limiter is set, etc). There are tons of people out there selling "the ultimate ecu chip" that simply has no rev limiter, +10% fuel across the map, +10% timing across the map, and VTEC at some ungodly low RPM......ebay anyone? Hondata setups require you to be using a chipped ECU with some additional components soldered in.
P13 - This is the stock H22 ECU. It's good for a stock motor (duh ). It has the capability to be chipped, but the maps that are available are very limited in scope. If your motor is near stock, you will be fine with this ECU. You can get programs that have slightly more timing and fuel with a lower VTEC engagement and still be fine. If you want the capability to do some tuning and change VTEC engagement, an Apexi VAFC or similar MAP signal altering piggyback will work well. This ECU cannot be used with Hondata.
P14 - This is the stock H23 ECU. I would assume this ECU can also be chipped, but I've never seen it done and don't know of any available programs for them. This ECU cannot be used with Hondata.
P28 - The civic ECU and the cheaper most common choice. The P28 will NOT control the secondaries (IAB's) in the intake manifold on the H22, H23, and B18C motors. unless you
...
Actually, since nitrous control is now a standard feature of all Hondata systems, you will be able to use the nitrous output control (either the Aircon clutch or Evap solenoid) to drive the secondary runners.
......
The P28 also doesn't have a knock sensor like the P13, P14, and P72 ECU's. These ecus only use the knock sensor to alter timing under 5500 rpm. After 5500, the knock sensor can no longer make timing adjustments anyways. If you think that having a functional knock sensor under 5500 rpm is going to save your motor, you're wrong
The P28 IS Hondata compatible. In addition, there are TONS of various chipped programs available for the P28. If you're planning to run a chipped program in a P28, make sure the program is for your motor and not a civic. There are P28 programs available that mimic the stock P13 fuel and timing maps, but I don't see the point in changing out your ECU so you can run the same maps........
P72 - The GSR ecu. This ECU does control the IAB's and also has knock sensor capability, but is more expensive than the P28 ECU. Technically this is the best ECU to use, because it has all of the features, but usually these ECU's are overpriced. Knock sensor capability is mostly useless, but if you're running an N/A motor the IAB control might be something you want.
I've heard stories about people running stock P72's on prelude motors and claiming power gains. These people smoke crack. The maps on the stock P72 ecu are designed for the B18C1 motor, NOT for the H22. If this ECU makes more power, it's probably because it's running more timing or less fuel than it should be.
The P72 IS Hondata compatible. In addition, the Hondata software allows you to change where the IAB's open/close, so you can engage the shorter runners earlier or later if you'd like.
P74/P75 - The integra LS ecu's. These ECU's do not offer VTEC control, IAB control, or knock sensor control, and thus are perfect (and the cheapest) options to use on the H23 motors. These ECU's ARE Hondata compatible.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=567799
This post is mostly for the 92-95 H22 or H23 people. If you have a 96+ motor, this post will assume you've got the OBD2->OBD1 conversion harness ready to install with whatever ECU choice you make. The only thing you need to do to convert an OBD2 car to OBD1 is install the harness. Some people will tell you that you have to change distributors because of the crank position sensor, but that is incorrect.
First, a note about chipping: Chipping is the process of socketing a stock ECU so that new fuel/timing maps can be burned onto a ROM and used to replace your stock ROM. There are lots of "programs" available, some are ok, some are crap. If you decide to chip your ECU, be VERY careful what program you choose to run. Always ask the person selling you the chipped program to tell you EXACTLY what kinds of modifications have been made to the stock map before you install it (have them tell you where VTEC crossover is, specifically what changes have been made to the timing and fuel maps, where the rev limiter is set, etc). There are tons of people out there selling "the ultimate ecu chip" that simply has no rev limiter, +10% fuel across the map, +10% timing across the map, and VTEC at some ungodly low RPM......ebay anyone? Hondata setups require you to be using a chipped ECU with some additional components soldered in.
P13 - This is the stock H22 ECU. It's good for a stock motor (duh ). It has the capability to be chipped, but the maps that are available are very limited in scope. If your motor is near stock, you will be fine with this ECU. You can get programs that have slightly more timing and fuel with a lower VTEC engagement and still be fine. If you want the capability to do some tuning and change VTEC engagement, an Apexi VAFC or similar MAP signal altering piggyback will work well. This ECU cannot be used with Hondata.
P14 - This is the stock H23 ECU. I would assume this ECU can also be chipped, but I've never seen it done and don't know of any available programs for them. This ECU cannot be used with Hondata.
P28 - The civic ECU and the cheaper most common choice. The P28 will NOT control the secondaries (IAB's) in the intake manifold on the H22, H23, and B18C motors. unless you
...
Actually, since nitrous control is now a standard feature of all Hondata systems, you will be able to use the nitrous output control (either the Aircon clutch or Evap solenoid) to drive the secondary runners.
......
The P28 also doesn't have a knock sensor like the P13, P14, and P72 ECU's. These ecus only use the knock sensor to alter timing under 5500 rpm. After 5500, the knock sensor can no longer make timing adjustments anyways. If you think that having a functional knock sensor under 5500 rpm is going to save your motor, you're wrong
The P28 IS Hondata compatible. In addition, there are TONS of various chipped programs available for the P28. If you're planning to run a chipped program in a P28, make sure the program is for your motor and not a civic. There are P28 programs available that mimic the stock P13 fuel and timing maps, but I don't see the point in changing out your ECU so you can run the same maps........
P72 - The GSR ecu. This ECU does control the IAB's and also has knock sensor capability, but is more expensive than the P28 ECU. Technically this is the best ECU to use, because it has all of the features, but usually these ECU's are overpriced. Knock sensor capability is mostly useless, but if you're running an N/A motor the IAB control might be something you want.
I've heard stories about people running stock P72's on prelude motors and claiming power gains. These people smoke crack. The maps on the stock P72 ecu are designed for the B18C1 motor, NOT for the H22. If this ECU makes more power, it's probably because it's running more timing or less fuel than it should be.
The P72 IS Hondata compatible. In addition, the Hondata software allows you to change where the IAB's open/close, so you can engage the shorter runners earlier or later if you'd like.
P74/P75 - The integra LS ecu's. These ECU's do not offer VTEC control, IAB control, or knock sensor control, and thus are perfect (and the cheapest) options to use on the H23 motors. These ECU's ARE Hondata compatible.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=567799
I do have a conversion harness. My fult for not adding that and also that i do plan to chip the ECU. I just wanted to know which one is a good one to start with. Thanks for the info thow.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NirVTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">P28s and P72s are great and everything, but the ideal ECU is:
P3N15</TD></TR></TABLE>
You'd need one hell of a conversion harness for that
P3N15</TD></TR></TABLE>
You'd need one hell of a conversion harness for that
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evil.98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">none of them are good without tuning.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The P3N15 is tug & play with SHEET tuning though!
The P3N15 is tug & play with SHEET tuning though!
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for being to lazy to search

