Bolts on Cat Converter are rusted on WD40 nothing help
My car is sitting on jacks right now, Im trying to get the bolts off the cat converter, but they are rusted on. Any suggestions as to what can be done without cutting them off and hopefully saving them?
Try Kroil, it worked well on my stuff that PB blaster(prolly the next best IMO) couldnt get loose. Otherwise your opinion is heating it.
Make sure u use the right sized socket, it may seem right but then round the bolt off because of the rust on there. Get the socket u need and hammer it on there if u need to.
Make sure u use the right sized socket, it may seem right but then round the bolt off because of the rust on there. Get the socket u need and hammer it on there if u need to.
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Well after half a can of pepboys finest rust remover 2 hours of banging and waiting. All the bolts are now stripped. And Im done with it today. Im gonna have to find someone with a torch now. So I might as well wait until my muffler comes in and get it all done at once. Custom pipes and have the guy cut the bolts off on the cat and put the new one on. What a biotch
Yeah, I had to cut the bolts off my cat on our CRV and it was very easy with an angle grinder. You can get a 4" grinder for about $40 then get some safety goggles, earplugs, and a cutoff wheel (if it doesn't come with any) and you'll probably still have $$$ leftover from the mechanic and you'll have a grinder.
Vice grips and hammer, last resort. Damn rust looks like its been building up since the car was manufactured in 92. Lol
Angle grinder 34 bucks at sears with a 2 year warrntey.
Angle grinder 34 bucks at sears with a 2 year warrntey.
personally i would use stripped bolt extractors. It looks like a socket but when u turn it, it bites into the nut. Ive used it on many thing and highly recommend them.
I always find it easier to have the whole exhuast system off before attempting to unbolt the cat. Dont know how easy it is for you 4th gen guys but the 5th gen has a triangulated bolt pattern with a top bolt/nut at the top making it nearly impossible to find good leverage. I just unbolt the whole "S" piping.
I would of loved nothing better than to do all the work myself. But unfornatly I do not have access to a torch. I can get the whole exhaust system off with this angle ginder I got now, but getting he muffler on and having custom pipes done, I might as well just have the guy do the work from the cat converter back.
Can you drop the entire exhaust off? What I did was disconnect the entire assembly (cat, b-pipe, muffler) and then used a $10 cutting wheel and cut off the studs off the cat.
Unfortunately if you go this route, you will have to either hammer or press out the remaining stud bits off of the cat exhaust flange, which is a bitch to do. Then you got to get new studs, or use bolts and nuts to reconnect the cat to the exhaust once you got your new exhaust on.
Now that I think about it, if you got the whole assembly off a better route to go might be to use a dremmel and do some precision cutting of just the nut, and save the studs.
Unfortunately if you go this route, you will have to either hammer or press out the remaining stud bits off of the cat exhaust flange, which is a bitch to do. Then you got to get new studs, or use bolts and nuts to reconnect the cat to the exhaust once you got your new exhaust on.
Now that I think about it, if you got the whole assembly off a better route to go might be to use a dremmel and do some precision cutting of just the nut, and save the studs.
what I always do is just put socket on the bolt, and push the rachet with my foot. If that doesn't work, get a piece of pipe for leverage and slide it over the rachet handle
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">angle grinder</TD></TR></TABLE>
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RacerBoy
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Mar 7, 2003 12:38 PM





