First off, before anyone jumps on my case, this is being done on MY car. Not a customers or fellow employees. I have enough confidence in this install I can show everything. I am doing this to show what a high end installation looks like and accomplishes. This is by NO MEANS a typical install. CC or BB would not do this do to time constraints. However, some smaller specialty shops may do it, and there are a few installers on this site that would do it (myself included).

I beg, PLEASE keep the trash talking off this thread. If you do have anything negative to say, please pm me. I will adress your concerns promptly. Like I said, this is to help others. Thanks in advance for your cooperation.

On with the show:

This is going to be somewhat of a build thread. I am going to do this in small sections to show you how a very solid install is done. Currently I am waiting for the back-up battery and tilt sensor to arrive. I have the alarm and relays, so, I went ahead and prepped the relays. I am waiting for the other pieces before I prep the rest. In this part, I am going to explain what each relay does and how it will work on the car.

First of all, here are the relays prepped:



Note the pen in the background for reference.

A relay is necessary for all the functions they will be doing. These are standard 30 amp relays that are available at most shops. A relay is a hig-current switch. The 2 on the left are the "kill" relays. One will disable the ecu (or distributor, have'nt decided yet) while the other will disable the fuel pump. These only "kill" if the alarm is triggered, all other times they let the current flow uninterrupted.

The other 2 relays have other purposes. One will honk the horn when the alarm is triggered, and the other will ccontrol the headlights.

I used a soldering iron to mark each relay. This will help during installtion and if I have to troubleshoot something later on down the road.

Example:



You can do a million things with relays. If it is on a switch, you can control it. They make sunroof modules, window modules, trunk releases, etc. All of these are controlled by relays.

If you ever wondered what an alarm looks like fresh out the box, here's a glimpse:



I'll be using about a third of all this wiring, and the rest will be removed and cleaned up.

Like I said, I'm at a standstill right now while awaiting the other parts. Once they arrive (in the next day or 2) this thread will move very quickly. I will be taking several pics and try to explain everything as well as I can.

A quick rundown of what THIS install is going to do:

When the "armed" button is pressed:

-Parking lights will flash once
-Led will come on
-System will arm
-Horn will gently honk (I may not use the Viper siren)

When the "disarm" button is pressed:

-Parking lights flash twice
-Headlights will come on for 30 seconds
-Led will turn off
-Horn will gently honk twice

When the alarm is triggered

-Parking lights flash
-Headlights flash
-Horn honks
-Ecu is disabled
-Fuel pump is disabled
-Starter is disabled
-Keypad is alerted in a one mile range

It basically opens the gates of hell. The only way this will be moved is via towtruck.

To add:

There will be a tilt sensor. If the vehicle is moved more than 3 degrees, the alarm is triggered. This includes towing, jacking up of the car at any side, lifting etc.

There is a backup battery as well. If the battery under the hood is removed or cut, the backup battery will take over and let the alarm continue to protect the vehicle.

There is also a hoodpin, so, once the hood is popped, the alarm is going to trigger.

Since there are soooo many relays and extra parts, this alarm will NOT be under the dash. I will show more of this during the install. Once again, please keep the negativity out of this thread, as it is my personal vehicle and I am willing to show this for others and to help the community.

Stay tuned, as there will be alot of information in this thread.


Modified by VegaS10 at 9:26 PM 10/3/2007

 

So this is what Tech looks like....

 

Keeping an eye on this thread.

With all the posts I read about "Stolen CRX" this is a great idea if you ask me!

 

Subscribed!

 

Thank you very nice to see a good write up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slomo_civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Subscribed!</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I hope the thieves on H-T are not looking at this thread.
Yes... there are thieves amongst us.

 

Good stuff, I think I know where this is going.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wiZCo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good stuff, I think I know where this is going. </TD></TR></TABLE>

And by that, you mean he's going to show us how to install an alarm...like the thread says

 

been wanting an alarm for some time now.
subscribed!

 

This is going into a crx btw, that's why I put it here.

Please give it time and wait until the alarm is installed before you make any judgements. I think mostly everyone will be pleasently surprised as to how this turns out.

Thanks!

 

subscribed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And by that, you mean he's going to show us how to install an alarm...like the thread says </TD></TR></TABLE>

Har, har.

I meant that it will show people how to install peripherals and such to a basic alarm without revealing his exact setup. Like more of a general alarm and security install.

 

Wow this is a awesome thread. Cheers

 

Subscribed!

 

I've copied and pasted this on several other forums I visit and have recieved many questions regarding alarms. Let me answer some and dispel some myths.

1. All a theif has to do is pop the hood and cut the siren wire to kill the alarm.

Wrong. By cutting the siren, the noise will stop, but the alarm will continue to protect the vehicle. If the siren wire is grounded out, the circuit may be damaged on the brain, but the alarm will continue to function.

2. Taking a car battery to the car and shorting it out will kill the alarm.

Wrong. It would be a HUGE fireworks show, but 99% of the time, the alarm would simply blow a fuse. Along with doing so, the electrical system could be damaged. The computers and modules in the car could be heavily damaged. Doing so could possibly make the vehicle undrivable, and certainly alot more difficult to "hotwire".

3. By knowing what brand alarm is in a car a theif can bypass it.

Wrong. Just think about this.....

4. Alarms are worthless and a kill switch does the same job.

An alarm is only as good as the install. You could have the best alarm made, but if there are poor connections it won't work. Kill switches are good for someone on a budget, but, a $10 kill switch won't alert me a mile away when my hood is popped.

5. Showing this install makes your car an easy target.

Wrong. You may know where everything is on THIS car, and you may even see this car on the street. But, once this install is complete, you will simply not even think about it. There are much easier and more valuable targets.

6. People ignore alarms

True. This is why a 2 way style keypad is being used. I'm using the factory horn because it's louder and more people take notice.

If you have any other questions or if there is ANYTHING else anyone would like to know, please let me know here or via PM. I'll be more than happy to discuss this and help the community out.

 

what you need to do is make it a silent alarm that notifies you and GPS to track its location, then install a taser into the seat back and bottom that activated off a weight switch so when some one sits in the seat they get tased , or better yet a tranquilizer dart in the *** when they sit down,hahaha. good stuff regardless.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VegaS10 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is going into a crx btw, that's why I put it here.

Please give it time and wait until the alarm is installed before you make any judgements. I think mostly everyone will be pleasently surprised as to how this turns out.

Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Waiting to see how this turns out.

 

Great write up so far! I am horrible at electronics and have the faintest idead as to how a realy works. Let alone wiring thema nd the alarm.

 

 

I need some input.

Do you guys want to see where all the connections are made, or would you rather just see how the wires are run and bundled?

I need to know before I begin putting it in the car. I'm still waiting for the tilt sensor and backup battery to arrive before I begin. I'm expecting them anyday now.

Let me know what you guys want!!!

 

i would personally like to know which wires in the CRX you are piggy backing off, and also how you route/bundle the wires. the more info the better!

and thank you!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by welfarepc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would personally like to know which wires in the CRX you are piggy backing off, and also how you route/bundle the wires. the more info the better!

and thank you!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Definitly in the plans!

 

my friend did a very similar setup on my hatch. I wont reveal where it all is located but the backup battery and the one mile pager are included.

it helps calm my nerves when i'm in a mall or at school. best money i have spent!

oh yeah BTW...**** thieves!

 

or for the lazy broke people let your main relay hang down blow your dash or have it in the coin tray and pull it every time you leave your car. no need for an expensive alarm and the only method of moveing it is a tow or if the thief has an extra relay in his pocket.. just a friendly tip till you save up the $$ for a real anti theft option.


any way im a fellow installer and nice write up..