Well got my motor together and go to spin it over and the head of the rod bolt smacks the main crank girdle. Thought the new EAGLE RODS were a straight bolt in ????





Modified by JDMCRX at 10:38 PM 9/23/2007

 

did you notch the block?

 

Pics posted . This just made my day. The box says made in china ver

 

I got a feeling im gonna get dicked around so might as well order some crowers now

 

The head hieght on these ARP's is 10mm the old design is 8.9mm. The new ARP are a 11mm 12 point old are a 3/8" 12 point. Im thinking this is bad batch of eagle rods with the wrong bolts installed in them???

 

 

pull the girdle and notch it for free or buy new rods? i think the answer is simple. sux they are not correct though

 

Nah im not gonna grind the gurdle it would need almost 1/8" to 1/4" for it to clear. That pic the gurdle still has to go down 3/16" or so. I paid for a product and it did not fit.

 

Im going to call eagle tomorrow maybe they put the wrong bolts in these rods?? Anyone else have this problem

 

u have to grind the girdel, did it on mine!

 

You will need to notch the block no matter what aftermarket rod you purchase for the D. Just do it you should need to take about 1/4 inch. This is a common practice.

 

it took me 10 minutes to notch the girdle on a z6 when we installed some.

some z6's clear, some dont (from our experience).. y8 must be the same.

just mark what you need, and get an actual aluminum grinding bit for a die grinder (only like, 5 big teeth.

it barely needs any notching really. why wouldnt you want bigger bolts?

 

Yeah i played with it i marked im gonna grind it well oval out the girdle a bid and make sure i have some clearence. Just pissed me off cause i was all done and this happens.

 

In the end, the larger hardware will benefit you more than the worthless metal you have to notch. I'm sure that was the plan by eagle.

 

yeah we had the same problem building a z6. got it all lubed and torqued and went to spin it. no go. i always knew you had to notch the sleeves themselves but found out the hard way on the girdle. it does need to be nothed out a decent amount but its not going to affect the strength of the girdle.

 

everybody has to notch the girdle did it on my brothers and my friends no problems just watch how much u take out or youll hit oil

 

Yeah i checked i got 1/4" clearence on the Oil gallerie. Im just gonna take off 1/8" and see how much room i have alow for expansion and all

 

theres no oil going through the part you have to notch. the center of the girdle is the only part with oil in it. the outer parts where you have to notch have no oiling passages in them.

 

I didn't know you had to notch the girdle even if you notch the block. Some good info for future d-series build.

 

i replied in your thread in turbod16.com

notching the block is common to-do in dseries.

go and get yourself a porting tool. you can use that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by methos713 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't know you had to notch the girdle even if you notch the block. Some good info for future d-series build. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It all depends on the girdle and the eagle age. Older eagles use the smaller arp stud hardware, the newer stuff uses the bigger rod bolts.

I didn't have to notch my z6 girdle, just the bottom of the sleeve. This is older eagles though.

 

Well just got off the phone with Eagle. They have two series of 3/8" bolts the new ones are 11mm 12 points they are 10mm high vs the 9mm and are a bit fatter and you have to remove up to 1/8" of material off most crank gurdles. Ill take some pics on friday.