"stretching" arp rod bolts for tq'ing. plastic guage for bearing size???
well heres my question. when installing arp rod bolts u need to "stretch" them for the proper tq spec. now i will be plastic guaging all my bearings to ensure my bearings are 100% perfect. now i will be getting a machine shop to "stretch" tq the rod bolts for their final tq as i do not have the guage. so then how am i suppost to properly plastic guage my bearings if i can't tq them down properly? i need some help and input. i'm thinking just tq to 40ft-lbs and that will be close enough...
please help!
please help!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekb16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are they aftermarket rods with ARP bolts? if so you should ask the manufacture wut the specs were...when i bought my rods for my build that had ARP rod bolts...the specs were 45lbs</TD></TR></TABLE>
they are eagle rods with arp rod bolts. it came with the sheet for the tq spec. i just need to know without stretch tq'ing can i still plastic gauge my bearings properly???
they are eagle rods with arp rod bolts. it came with the sheet for the tq spec. i just need to know without stretch tq'ing can i still plastic gauge my bearings properly???
I've seen a few close friend of mine get away with out doing it. I'm sure there a people on this forum that are fine without doing it. I myself believe it is very important. The rod bolts are one of the most imporant parts in the bottom end. Alot of bottom end failure result from bolt failure not the rod.
Heres a good link to read up more about it.
http://www.carcraft.com/techar....html
Heres a good link to read up more about it.
http://www.carcraft.com/techar....html
This is all opinion based but if you are only using plastiguage to measure clearance than i wouldnt worry about rod bolt stretch. Just torque them to the specified torque number. I would suggest using a diffrent method to measure rod bearing oil clearance. Maybe a bore guage.
You can PM me if you have questions
You can PM me if you have questions
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bond »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well heres my question. when installing arp rod bolts u need to "stretch" them for the proper tq spec. now i will be plastic guaging all my bearings to ensure my bearings are 100% perfect. now i will be getting a machine shop to "stretch" tq the rod bolts for their final tq as i do not have the guage. so then how am i suppost to properly plastic guage my bearings if i can't tq them down properly? i need some help and input. i'm thinking just tq to 40ft-lbs and that will be close enough...
please help!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Really if you want everything to be perfect I would strongly suggest using the proper indicators and such for the bearings. Now with that being said, not everyone can afford to purchase said indicators or have the money to have the machine shop do so. If you are just putting together a daily driver motor, then the plastic-gauge is not the wortst thing. Just don't leave it out in the sun before you use it, it's only wax in there.
The same thing can be said for the rod bolts. If you are not building a high power motor, just torquing the rod bolts would be acceptable. With the rod bolt stretch technique, it is the absolute best way to do them. You could stretch the bolt to the proper specification, mark it and take it back off. Then you could get your torque wrench and torque to the specified point. You cuold look and see and more times then not, the marks do not line up (from the original mark from the stretching). With all the motors that I build I stretch the bolts.
And don't forget that you will need to check your crank endplay (for the proper thrust bearing size) and rod endplay. So investing in some dial indicators would not be a bad idea, especially if you are going to do this more often.
Jason
please help!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Really if you want everything to be perfect I would strongly suggest using the proper indicators and such for the bearings. Now with that being said, not everyone can afford to purchase said indicators or have the money to have the machine shop do so. If you are just putting together a daily driver motor, then the plastic-gauge is not the wortst thing. Just don't leave it out in the sun before you use it, it's only wax in there.
The same thing can be said for the rod bolts. If you are not building a high power motor, just torquing the rod bolts would be acceptable. With the rod bolt stretch technique, it is the absolute best way to do them. You could stretch the bolt to the proper specification, mark it and take it back off. Then you could get your torque wrench and torque to the specified point. You cuold look and see and more times then not, the marks do not line up (from the original mark from the stretching). With all the motors that I build I stretch the bolts.
And don't forget that you will need to check your crank endplay (for the proper thrust bearing size) and rod endplay. So investing in some dial indicators would not be a bad idea, especially if you are going to do this more often.
Jason
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pro-Am 1934 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Really if you want everything to be perfect I would strongly suggest using the proper indicators and such for the bearings. Now with that being said, not everyone can afford to purchase said indicators or have the money to have the machine shop do so. If you are just putting together a daily driver motor, then the plastic-gauge is not the wortst thing. Just don't leave it out in the sun before you use it, it's only wax in there.
The same thing can be said for the rod bolts. If you are not building a high power motor, just torquing the rod bolts would be acceptable. With the rod bolt stretch technique, it is the absolute best way to do them. You could stretch the bolt to the proper specification, mark it and take it back off. Then you could get your torque wrench and torque to the specified point. You cuold look and see and more times then not, the marks do not line up (from the original mark from the stretching). With all the motors that I build I stretch the bolts.
And don't forget that you will need to check your crank endplay (for the proper thrust bearing size) and rod endplay. So investing in some dial indicators would not be a bad idea, especially if you are going to do this more often.
Jason</TD></TR></TABLE>
well quick question with the thrust washers. when u order a bearing kit say standard size from acl they give u them. now will i need to order another set of thrusts that will be right for my setup or should i be worried??? can u even buy over sized thrust washers? i could use some help clearing that up. thanks.
oh i'm shooting for 300whp on an ls-t. so i'll be looking for a high output for that motor and it will be a DD and weekend drag car
Really if you want everything to be perfect I would strongly suggest using the proper indicators and such for the bearings. Now with that being said, not everyone can afford to purchase said indicators or have the money to have the machine shop do so. If you are just putting together a daily driver motor, then the plastic-gauge is not the wortst thing. Just don't leave it out in the sun before you use it, it's only wax in there.
The same thing can be said for the rod bolts. If you are not building a high power motor, just torquing the rod bolts would be acceptable. With the rod bolt stretch technique, it is the absolute best way to do them. You could stretch the bolt to the proper specification, mark it and take it back off. Then you could get your torque wrench and torque to the specified point. You cuold look and see and more times then not, the marks do not line up (from the original mark from the stretching). With all the motors that I build I stretch the bolts.
And don't forget that you will need to check your crank endplay (for the proper thrust bearing size) and rod endplay. So investing in some dial indicators would not be a bad idea, especially if you are going to do this more often.
Jason</TD></TR></TABLE>
well quick question with the thrust washers. when u order a bearing kit say standard size from acl they give u them. now will i need to order another set of thrusts that will be right for my setup or should i be worried??? can u even buy over sized thrust washers? i could use some help clearing that up. thanks.
oh i'm shooting for 300whp on an ls-t. so i'll be looking for a high output for that motor and it will be a DD and weekend drag car
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so the crank runout is not a problem that anyone worries about? i guess thats true as long as ur bearings are correct and u have replaced the thrust washers it will be corrected. can i get the machine shop to do all the measuring without any bearings and have them able to give me the exact bearing size i need? if so that would be easier then plastic guaging everything.
] on the mains you can try the acl's lots of the time there fine if not use the markings on the block and crank to get the correct size and use honda bearings. with things like crank runout and rod side play its good to check them when your taking the motor apart that way you know what your gonna need.
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