i can get a b20z2 for almost free to put into my hatch. but the block has some problems so it needs to be rebuild.

my question is if i build the bottom end and leave the head how much boost can i put on the motor without floating the valves. unless theres a good reason why, i dont see too many problems b/c the crv motor has such a low redline. i'm not looking for maximum power here just to have some fun and improve my driving. reliability is what i want for my honda.

since i didnt get a response from the hybrid forum i guess another question would be what parts do i need to swap to make this crv motor fit into a 92 hatch. civic/integra tranny bolt right up yes? intake manifold needs to be changed? ( does skunk2 or jg even make a b20 manifold? or does b16/b18 have the same bolt pattern) any other clearance issues? the hood will fit without cutting/knotching?

i've searched lots and learnt everything on HT which is why my post #'s are so low. i'm not a tech and yes i'm a noob. but i want to learn!

thanks all

 

Hey- personaly I am boosting my b20 as well- the problem is the sleeves- there pretty thin, so without sleeving I wouldnt trust over 350whp.
to do the swap heres what you need-
b series mounts
B series into eg shift linkage
B series tranny ( ls b16 gsr work fine)
obd1 ls distributor, ecu and intake manifold/tb

good luck- check out the b20 turbo post and look on the turbo LS post-

If your going to build a motor, might as well go with a ls in my opinion tho if you dont want to sleeve. ill take the b20 block from ya tho for my all motor project

 

thanks for the post. 350 is way more than i though i would be pushing. since theres nothing wrong with the head i want to leave it alone. i dont mind putting sleves in considering i may even have to. but i was hoping to have a reliable tune with a stock head. i just dont know how much boost the springs can handle and such. i'm sure with the work i have to put into the bottom end i'll have to build it to handle more than the head can handle. i was thinking 12-15 lbs?

so with the crv block i'd have to replace the crv intake manifold with a integra ls manifold, tb even ecu and dizzy? cant use the crv dizzy? needs to be the 1.8 LS dizzy? or would b16, GSR, work as well? any other ecu's work with this motor? i also have to go from obd2 - obd1 wont i?

sorry i want to keep this motor :D it'll be my first semi built motor. last time i rebuilt i had no money hehe. i have a spare d16 sitting around that i was going to built till this came along. so if this project starts i will sell the D!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wong_520 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i dont mind putting sleves in considering i may even have to. but i was hoping to have a reliable tune with a stock head. i just dont know how much boost the springs can handle and such.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


If it was me and i was going to take the time and money to sleeve, id be looking for alot more then 350-
the stock springs would work fine, but I would upgrde to some crowers and a nice 403 cam so you can rev higher

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wong_520 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so with the crv block i'd have to replace the crv intake manifold with a integra ls manifold, tb even ecu and dizzy? cant use the crv dizzy? needs to be the 1.8 LS dizzy? or would b16, GSR, work as well? any other ecu's work with this motor? i also have to go from obd2 - obd1 wont i?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh also forgot- obd1 alternator lol
The crv intake manifold is pretty tall, and wont clear the hood
the crv ecu wont work because its obd2
the distributor, will work you just have to rewire it to obd1- search and theres a few threads with the wiring
ecu wise if your boosting your going to end up chipping and tuning so dont worry just get a p06/p75/p28 and chip it out

vtec distributors wont work

hope i helped

 

yah man thanks so much. i'm gonna print this page out later

looks like i'm in for some nice work here. i dont want to raise the redline becuase i dont want to put that much money into this. considering this is my first turbo i'll have to learn to drive a semi built before i go all out. i'm aiming for 200+ i'm not greedy... yet

but this is looking good for me. i was worried i'd have to do a full build, catch can and all. if its not unheard of for me to boost a stock crv head then i'm gonna go for it.

 

if you are already replacing the intake manifold, go for an aftermarket design made for ls motors. s/b20 heads really need that to help carry the torque past like 5500 rpms.

if you sleeve, then you really should go for more power. i ran 300hp last year on a sleeved block and i felt like i wasted my money.

if the ls head and b20 head are as close to each other as i think they are, you can rev up to around 7300-7500, especially if you have aftermarket rods and bolts. thats what i used to rev my stock 200k mile ls motors to at least.


you will have to get an aftermarket clutch too, but you really dont need an aftermarket flywheel, the stock one will be fine just get it resurfaced for like 50 bucks. youve got some good advice in here already, along with the right attitude. good luck with it all

 

thanks for the reply. aftermarket im would be great except i need all the sensors.... so i have 2 options to save money with the sensors. get a 2nd hand ls manifold with all sensors on it.. . or i can ask the tech who's giving me the motor to buy the crv's sensors on the manifold off him (cuz he wants to keep the manifold for the sensors) and put it onto a LS manifold/aftermarket manifold? i have no clue if any of the sensors will fit tho. i've only done 1 simple swap and havent had to mix'n'match parts like this. so i'm scared to bolt the wrong part on and not even know it... i also have no clue what fuel rail/injectors are interchangeable for the mainfold i need.

anyways i dont want to put that much power becuase i want to keep the head stock and the whole motor reliable. it will be my daily after all and i dont make very much money at all :D

 

if you are converting to obd1 with a chip you dont need all those evap and crap sensors, just food for thought

 

hmmm... thanks.

i dont even know the pro's n cons of obd1 vs obd2 for a car like this. i would think obd1 is less trouble to keep the harness in there and not needing to get the sensors.

any clue on wether or not the sensors on the crv intake manifold would fit an ls manifold? if so i'm gonna get an aftermarket ls manifold and put the crv sensors on that. will it work?

 

cant u install a block guard on the b20 block and would it be a little better and be able to handle like 7-10 psi or around 225-250whp? not to jack your thread but does anyone know how people weld the block guard in?

 

I've read the stock sleves are very weak for the z2.
i've read a stock ls motor can make well over 400whp with a stock head and a built block.
can anyone vouche for the b20z2 head? i'm aiming for a reliable tune. 15lbs?

 

keep this going. Good info so far. Im planing to do b20-T in the near future!

 

Not to thread jack but what I am thinking about going B20-T and do you think it is worth going for 300whp with a B20 engine and Ls tranny? Also what would I have to upgrade?