after putting my motor back together, now it overheats. fan is working normal and thermostat is brand new.

top rad hose = hot
bottom rad hose = ice cold.

additionally, my heat blows cold and the heater core valve is opening

so far i replaced: tstat, radiator. ive tried running the motor with the rad cap off to air out the system, as well as using the bleed valve on the side of the head.

 

up

 

Sounds like you may still have air in the system.Or the new t-stat is junk or in backwards (not sure you can do that in a Honda).

 

id think it would have to be a tremendous amount of air..


the new one is autozone, which ive used before with no problems. the old one is oem, and both tstats move just fine if u push them so they arent seized or anything.

 

Put the thermostat into a pot of water and heat the stove up. This way you can see if it really is opening. If you had a factory service manual it would describe this procedure. Also, you may still have air in the system. What procedure are you using to properly bleed the system? Again, the service manual would help here.

 

so here's what happened:

once the car started to creep up above the 1/3 normal mark, i revved the bastard up to like 8k and opened the bleed valve. it took no joke like 30 seconds but it finally started spitting only coolant out. everything is good now. my top rad hose has a peak in it, and i suspect that being the highest point it was collecting an air pocket

 

anytime you do a swap, when filling the rad for initial start-up, turn the heater on full blast.

fill till it doesn't take it as quick, then start and keep filling. it will take it up to the top then you start, and see if the level drops. Tapping the lower rad hose helps get air bubbles out too. The problem is the heater core keeps an air pocket going right to the thermostat... where that hose hooks up. That is what you have to get the air out of before you cap it off.

 

yeah. ive never had it this bad, and ive done close to 10 swaps/motor assemblys in the past few years