This is also posted in the CRX section but I got no response there. Hoping I would get more help in this section:

I have installed a camshaft(numbers wore off but I believe its a 59300) on my D15B-VTEC; anyways I can't get this to idle for **** with the stock Z6, Z6 map, stock P08 map and someone's Crower Stg 2 map.
I can't even verify the A/F or datalog since the ports on my computer aren't working(only thing I can get working is the emulator).

For those wondering; I'm using a P28 ECU, LC-1 wideband, custom TTL->serial converter, Moates Ostrich, Crome and Freelog.

I have to open the throttle a tad just to keep it idling around 1000rpm(like not even pressing the pedal...just tapping on it), and if I rev it and try to hold the RPMs to say, around 2000rpm; the rpms would bounce 100-200rpm. Anyone have this problem??? Right now I can't datalog or anything but I'm working on it; just need some help in the mean time. I could install the stock cam, but I don't have my torque wrench with me and I'd rather that be a last resort.

I've tried cleaning the IACV, still does same thing. I also tried plugging the IACV and FITV orifice in the throttle body, cleaning the TB, and checked for vacuum leaks. Same thing.

Also, I noticed I get a code 40(maybe it's really a code 4?) while the engine is running. Goes away when you turn the car off.


Thanks, Kevin.

 

You need to make sure you have timing set correctly and then sync with crome map and then tune it at idle. Some cam's depending need to idle at 1000rpm depending, dout you have a really aggressive cam, probably your timing is off.

 

I've quadruple checked the timing(both cam and ignition). I've even tried advancing and retarding the camshaft 3 degrees. It still does the same thing.

 

when you do your iacv make sure to check the gasket on it, some people are missing these gaskets and dont have a clue

 

Is that the o-ring looking thing?

 

yah the rubber one

 

Yea it's there. Is it possible it went bad?

I'm going to try to take everything off tomorrow(the intake manifold) and check the wiring. Anything else I should look for?

 

Hmm, Just found out there's two throttle body gaskets on there(the TB was swapped awhile ago). Anyways, do you guys think this may have contributed?

 

too much air would not cause this problem. a leak isn't your problem here.

You need to work out your wideband issues first, but that code 4 (code 40 doesn't exist) is the CKP (crank pos. sensor) without that working your car will not idle.

Whats the status with the distributor you're using? Is seems like that could be the problem.

 

Well, I had it in my Accord before(zip tied of course), and it worked fine. It also ran fine about 3 months ago and I had not removed the distributor except for taking off the whole head. Only things that changed were the throttle bodies since I kept breaking the TPS.

I followed the flow chart for checking CKP, and the resistance on all the wires was 375ohms(within spec I guess).

The distributor is the stock one that came with the engine but with new MSD Extreme cap and rotor, and used MSD Blaster 2 coil and wires.

 

375 ohms?

that is WAY out of spec dude, you should have .06 of an ohm or so. anything over 1 ohm is reason to worry.

I would double check all that wiring, maybe try another distributor, a stock one if you can.

 

Well, the manual said that it should be between 350 and 750ohms. This is testing the wires on the outside of the distributor, following the flow chart for code 4. If you're talking about the coil or ignitor, I haven't checked those.

I'll still try another distributor if I can get my hands on one though.

 

Just ran the car again. For a while, it was idling fine after I gave it gas(revving it to who knows; no gauges installed). Then, it starts struggling again until it finally just cuts off. This all lasted about 30 seconds.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K2e2vin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, the manual said that it should be between 350 and 750ohms. This is testing the wires on the outside of the distributor, following the flow chart for code 4. If you're talking about the coil or ignitor, I haven't checked those.

I'll still try another distributor if I can get my hands on one though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That spec is for the sensor itself. internally. the wires back to the ecu should have 0 ohms.

The coil/icm should be fine if it runs fine other than the idle prob.

 

have you checked your tps?
had the same problem on my swap install.

 

Just checked the TPS; reading .53v closed(idle screw adjusted some) and 4.51v WOT with no spikes.

I'm leaning towards MAP and distributor. Hopefully I can get my hands on both tomorrow.

 

MAP sensor works fine...

 

Bump. Would a bad Coolant temperature sensor do this? It idles fine then about 2-3minutes while warming up it starts stalling and dieing again. I had to enrich the fuel map of course.

I had a copper-based leak sealer for awhile in there and would that cause the CTS to mess up?

 

those sensors are sensitive to those crappy additives, don't use them in the future.

Do you have a stock ecu to try?

 

I haven't tried another ECU in the car but I've put my ECU in another car(jumper removed so it'll work on a stock D16Z6) and it ran fine.

 

bump for some help plz

 

i was reading a post about tuning and it said "an old man once told me 90% of your fuel issues are in the distributor"...

i would check the dizzy and timing over and over. sounds like your timing is out.

what is your timing set to? are you sure your timing belt didnt jump a tooth? or more?

what AFR's are your WB showing when you do get it running?

i would try another dizzy after you make SURE your timing is set with a timing light, and verify all your crank and cam marks are aligned.

if that fails and you are sure your setup isnt to blame, go to a tuner

Dan

 

The AFr is around 14 during idle; but I've noticed the idle got better the further I advanced the ignition all the way on the distributor.

I had it set at 16.5, which I though was correct but when I looked at another P08 basemap; some of them were set at 19.5. Would this by itself cause that much problems?

Anyone know what the timing marks are on the D15B VTEC?

 

Bump, bogging pwns me.

I did even more search and found some people having similar problems; but has anyone fixed it?