so we were changing out the tranny fluid on my AP1 today, its a 2000 model that i just bought with only 23000 miles and the fluid has never been changed so i figured i should do that soon cause that fluid is 7 years old


so after we drain the tranny we go to put back on the bolt at the factory torque spec

but right when the wrench hit the factory spec the metal housing that holds the bolt broke off in two pieces!!!!

you would think the bolt would fail before the metal housing


what chance do you guys think i have gettin a goodwill from honda, because even if you over torque this bolt it shouldn't snap off the metal housing???

 

Steel drain plug > Aluminum threads/cases

I dont think you'll have a good chance getting that good-willed being that it was self-inflicted and not done @ a Honda repair facility.

What were you torquing to?

Sorry

 

if it was a defective honda part does that give a chance for good will???

it was torque'd to spec, 29 ft lbs

 

ouch, that blows.

ive done so many tranny fluid changes and ive never had a problem with torqueing the bolt to 29ftlbs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by meccA’s eg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it was a defective honda part does that give a chance for good will???

it was torque'd to spec, 29 ft lbs</TD></TR></TABLE>

i doubt honda will good will it. Who knows what the previous owner did? maybe you werent the first one to change the oil in the trans? Maybe someone before you over torqued it. It's hard to prove that it's defective. Besides that, manufacturer's defect warranty probably expired on that car a while ago unless you bought an additional warranty. It's just hard to prove that it was never manhandled. Either by you or by the previous owner (not saying you did it...but how does Honda know that?)

And yeah the steel bolt will break the hell out of the aluminum trans housing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by meccA’s eg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so we were changing out the tranny fluid on my AP1 today, its a 2000 model that i just bought with only 23000 miles and the fluid has never been changed so i figured i should do that soon cause that fluid is 7 years old


</TD></TR></TABLE>

how do you know the fluid never was changed? time to bite the bullet...

 

dood seriously.. you need a torque wrench for 29 ft lbs?????
only time i use one is when i am assembling a motor.....

 

Did you use a new crush washer? When was your torque wrench last calibrated? I think you have about a 0% chance of getting that good-willed on a 2000 model.

 

im with santos on this one

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S@nt0s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dood seriously.. you need a torque wrench for 29 ft lbs?????
only time i use one is when i am assembling a motor.....

</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black S2K &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im with santos on this one </TD></TR></TABLE>

cmon now. not EVERYONE'S super mechanically inclined. Maybe his hand isnt calibrated and he wanted to do everything right. Atleast he used a torque wrench. lol i've heard people say that there are 2 settings "tight, and ******* tight". But you cant really blame him for doing the right thing.

I didnt use one on mine either. But...yeah.

OP: that's nuts that it cracked at 29ft/lbs. Like someone else said. Is the wrench calibrated?

Also, at 29ft/lbs, you'd probably BARELY hear or feel a click. You may have over tightened it unwittingly. Maybe that was the problem. I know this because the lowest setting on my wrench was 25ft/lbs. I tightened down some clutch plate bolts on my GSR (yeah i know the torque is 18) and i kept turning and turning lol. I was like "WTF? this is SO past 25". The click was so soft I didn't hear it or feel it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Maybe his hand isnt calibrated and he wanted to do everything right. Atleast he used a torque wrench. lol i've heard people say that there are 2 settings "tight, and ******* tight". But you cant really blame him for doing the right thing.
OP: that's nuts that it cracked at 29ft/lbs. Like someone else said. Is the wrench calibrated?

I tightened down some clutch plate bolts on my GSR (yeah i know the torque is 18) and i kept turning and turning lol. I was like "WTF? this is SO past 25". The click was so soft I didn't hear it or feel it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

hell i dont even use it for clutch sinec my elbow is cal'd

but yes there is without a question it was over tightened which is why that **** broke. sucks kuz theres no way to fix it.. well im lieing i could fix it but no one would like it...

JB WELD it ...
or
get it to a fab shop and build up the wall by welding.....

 

Sorry to see this happen. This is my first post, I mainly hang out around s2ki.com I've read on one occasion where the torque wrench locked up and acted just like a regular ratchet. It's experiences like this that made me spend the extra money to buy a Snap-on torque wrench. (If you're a student you can get about a 50% discount on Snap-on tools, I did.) The less expensive torque wrenches that are sold at Wal-mart and Harbor Freight are not as tactile as a Snap-on, Craftsman, or a Husky torque wrench. Meaning it is hard to feel or hear when the wrench clicks once the desired torque setting has been reached.

Or maybe you got a bad aluminum casting on the transmission casing.

The most viable options that I can see are (from least expensive to most expensive):

Buying a used tranny (one on eBay for $750)
Buying a new tranny case, which would require complete disassembly of your current tranny (One member on the s2ki forum was quoted around $1200 installed at the dealership)
Buying a new tranny ($3200 for the transmission).

Of course you can try JB welding it like S@nt0s suggested, or finding someone with a TIG welder to build up the area area and re-tap the threads this will probably require the transmission to be removed. Maybe they can even weld the piece the broke off back on.

You can try JB weld by first threading the bolt back into the remaining threads, coat only the threads with a thin coat of grease so the JB weld wont stick to it, clean up the area that the JB weld would bond to with a solvent, build up the JB weld around the drain bolt, let the JB weld cure, and fill it with oil.

Or skip using the bold all together, seal up the drain plug for good with JB weld, keep driving it while at the same time saving for a new transmission. Once its time for a transmission oil change (every 30,000 miles), buy a "new" transmission and put it in.

Be patient, don't give up, and good luck.

 

great first post...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chino101 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Of course you can try JB welding it like S@nt0s suggested, or finding someone with a TIG welder to build up the area area and re-tap the threads this will probably require the transmission to be removed. Maybe they can even weld the piece the broke off back on.

You can try JB weld by first threading the bolt back into the remaining threads, coat only the threads with a thin coat of grease so the JB weld wont stick to it, clean up the area that the JB weld would bond to with a solvent, build up the JB weld around the drain bolt, let the JB weld cure, and fill it with oil.

Or skip using the bold all together, seal up the drain plug for good with JB weld, keep driving it while at the same time saving for a new transmission. Once its time for a transmission oil change (every 30,000 miles), buy a "new" transmission and put it in.

Be patient, don't give up, and good luck. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

do you have bigger pics?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GRAF-FITI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

how do you know the fluid never was changed? time to bite the bullet...</TD></TR></TABLE>


car only has 23000 miles on it and the guy had it only serviced at the honda dealership and they didn't ever do it


any know good JB weld places in San Diego?

i was out of town for a week so this happened at the best possible time

 

I would find a body shop or performance shop that welds aluminum

 

that sucks brosef

 

good luck mayn

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mustafa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would find a body shop or performance shop that welds aluminum</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2.

i would print a big detailed pic and go to different shops and ask them what they can do for it.

 

honda denied the goodwill


imma try and get it welded tomorrow

 

pm sent
JB weld doesnt have to look "pretty"....it's a DIY fix it.