COMPLETELY Removing oil from engine?
Ok, so you guys might remember a few weeks ago I was having problems after purchasing a non-running CR-X with a b16. I got it running, and everything but I was throwing a CEL and the ecu (PR3) was shooting a code 21, vtec solenoid/spool valve. So I started checking signals/wiring/etc. Last night I went to check the solenoid itself (pressure switch is fine, I'm assuming 'cuz no code for that one, 22 I believe) and by my surprise the solenoid actually works (ran a wire from the vtec solenoid and connected straight to the pos. (+) terminal to see if I heard the click from the solenoid, and I did). So I pulled off the whole unit and there was a mixture of gas/oil, but more so gas inside the solenoid (prior to the car running, injectors were flooding the engine with gas, thus the gas in evertyhing).
So my question is, when I did an oil change, I removed the valve cover and the oil was still in the head, even with the drain bolt removed...how do I go about removing ALL the oil/gas from the engine so I can put 100% fresh oil in? Anyway to do this? Someone said run the car with the drain bolt out, but I really don't think that's a smart idea. Also if all the oil is out and pour fresh oil in, will I run into any problems? Should I let it sit for a little and let the fresh oil coat everything? HELP!!
So my question is, when I did an oil change, I removed the valve cover and the oil was still in the head, even with the drain bolt removed...how do I go about removing ALL the oil/gas from the engine so I can put 100% fresh oil in? Anyway to do this? Someone said run the car with the drain bolt out, but I really don't think that's a smart idea. Also if all the oil is out and pour fresh oil in, will I run into any problems? Should I let it sit for a little and let the fresh oil coat everything? HELP!!
I dont think there is any way to get ALL the oil out. I would change the oil again with some cheap oil and add a qt of marvel mystery oil or risolone in place of a qt of oil run it for a day or two then drain agian and use some good quality oil. The marvel mystery oil or risolone will safely clean the crap from inside the engine
What i do on all (older) cars i buy is this. When you do an oil change, instead of filling completely with oil, do one quart less. Add the remaining quart with diesel fuel. Close it all up, then pull one of the vaccum lines off of the manifold. Stick that end into a bottle on Automatic tranny fluid (ATF) so it sucks it into the intake.
THe combination works well (it works individually as well). The diesel cleans out build up and gunk and the ATF cleans the valves and injectors. Let it idle, or keep it around 1200 rpm for a 5-10 minutes.
Then do another oil change and you should be good.
THe combination works well (it works individually as well). The diesel cleans out build up and gunk and the ATF cleans the valves and injectors. Let it idle, or keep it around 1200 rpm for a 5-10 minutes.
Then do another oil change and you should be good.
the atf really works? wouldnt this put too much fluid into the engine? I need to do something to clean an old motor, here in the next week, gonna try to bring a 10 yo d15 back to life. . . hasnt been ran in 3 yrs
Thanks for the info guys, I think I'm gonna do one of the mentioned remedys above.
Anyone else have any info on removing ALL of the oil in the engine?
Anyone else have any info on removing ALL of the oil in the engine?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by denraweb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Anyone else have any info on removing ALL of the oil in the engine?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Short of removing the motor and pressure washing it all out, no.
Anyone else have any info on removing ALL of the oil in the engine?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Short of removing the motor and pressure washing it all out, no.
first go to autozone or pepboys and get a gallon of the cheapest oil you can buy...i would take the valve cover off and take out the drain bolt ...dump a good amount all over every thing and hopefully most of the dirty oil goes with it....let it drain....now put the plug back in and fill the motor....let it run for 10 minute's ,shut it off and let it cool...now drain again and now change the filter and fill with a trusted synthetic oil......
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No it auto trans fluid won't hurt engine, it actually helps. Sometimes, if I'm a half a quart low and don't have any oil on hand, I put a half a quart of the Dodge trans fluid in my engine, the synthetic stuff.
FWIW, and IMO here goes,
I used to work for a Honda dealer and we got these "don't laugh" Oil Sludge Out Machines...Now hear me out...
Before we got them we had the rep who was selling them schedule a trial and he came in one afternoon and we picked an old like 90 Accord that belonged to the wife of a Honda technician who had worked for Honda for over 25 years. I mean a real hard-&$$ kind of guy. he pulled the valve cover before and we looked in, OK had a standard to go by. then re-installed the v/c and proceded to perform the service. You drain the engine oil, then connect a line to the filter housing and the other line goes to the drain bolt hole. It a nut-shell it runs the system in reverse, and I can attest it does the trick. We would not have gotten three of them before i left had it not proven itself with the "veteran" Honda techs. If I had an engine I wanted to really clean out but wasn't going to tear it apart with a re-build or anything. This is what I would have done. Afterwards the same tech removed the valve cover and we saw first hand what it removed and how clean the oil was after the next 3,500 miles. It drained out clean...So go from there. AND we never had a problem with old oil seals or anything like that.
I used to work for a Honda dealer and we got these "don't laugh" Oil Sludge Out Machines...Now hear me out...
Before we got them we had the rep who was selling them schedule a trial and he came in one afternoon and we picked an old like 90 Accord that belonged to the wife of a Honda technician who had worked for Honda for over 25 years. I mean a real hard-&$$ kind of guy. he pulled the valve cover before and we looked in, OK had a standard to go by. then re-installed the v/c and proceded to perform the service. You drain the engine oil, then connect a line to the filter housing and the other line goes to the drain bolt hole. It a nut-shell it runs the system in reverse, and I can attest it does the trick. We would not have gotten three of them before i left had it not proven itself with the "veteran" Honda techs. If I had an engine I wanted to really clean out but wasn't going to tear it apart with a re-build or anything. This is what I would have done. Afterwards the same tech removed the valve cover and we saw first hand what it removed and how clean the oil was after the next 3,500 miles. It drained out clean...So go from there. AND we never had a problem with old oil seals or anything like that.
Never mind what all these guys are saying.. I know of a very effective way to get all the oil out of your engine.
take out your drain plug, put the oil pan under it, get in your car and put in the clutch, start it up and let it run for a minute or two.. or take it up the road if you want.
That'll get the oil right out of there.
take out your drain plug, put the oil pan under it, get in your car and put in the clutch, start it up and let it run for a minute or two.. or take it up the road if you want.
That'll get the oil right out of there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrew Marquis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Never mind what all these guys are saying.. I know of a very effective way to get all the oil out of your engine.
take out your drain plug, put the oil pan under it, get in your car and put in the clutch, start it up and let it run for a minute or two.. or take it up the road if you want.
That'll get the oil right out of there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hope that your joking
take out your drain plug, put the oil pan under it, get in your car and put in the clutch, start it up and let it run for a minute or two.. or take it up the road if you want.
That'll get the oil right out of there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hope that your joking
Why would I joke about something like this?!?! Removing every drop from every port and tube in the engine is CRITICAL in doing oil changes... heaven forbid new oil mix with 0.107857 qt. oil thats been subject to products of combustion and a little fuel... [/sarcasm]
The fuel will evaporate very quickly.
I'm in college to be an A & P mechanic.
Some aircraft utilize dilution systems that allows the pilot to mix in fuel to the oil supply right before shut down if it's in extremely cold climate and he knows it's going to be a cold start the next morning. It dilutes the oil making it thinner, so it won't have any problem circulating while the engine warms up. Then the fuel evaporates because of it's high volatility.
The way you can tell if your oil is too diluted is to check your CHT(cyl. head. temp) or EGT for excessive heat, as well as your oil pressure(will be lower than normal).
Of course I realize that not everyone has a CHT/EGT gauge in their car, but the point is not to worry about a little gas in there.
If you really want to get it out, my suggestion would be just get a big roll of paper towels and start dabbing the little areas of collected oil in the head.
-Andrew
The fuel will evaporate very quickly.
I'm in college to be an A & P mechanic.
Some aircraft utilize dilution systems that allows the pilot to mix in fuel to the oil supply right before shut down if it's in extremely cold climate and he knows it's going to be a cold start the next morning. It dilutes the oil making it thinner, so it won't have any problem circulating while the engine warms up. Then the fuel evaporates because of it's high volatility.
The way you can tell if your oil is too diluted is to check your CHT(cyl. head. temp) or EGT for excessive heat, as well as your oil pressure(will be lower than normal).
Of course I realize that not everyone has a CHT/EGT gauge in their car, but the point is not to worry about a little gas in there.
If you really want to get it out, my suggestion would be just get a big roll of paper towels and start dabbing the little areas of collected oil in the head.
-Andrew
Dude, you know it's not gonna matter that you learned this in college... 16 yr olds reading Honda Tuning know more 
Modified by mac_24_seven at 1:33 PM 9/10/2007

Modified by mac_24_seven at 1:33 PM 9/10/2007
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 8,884
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From: Intelligence plus character
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mac_24_seven »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude, you know it's not gonna matter that you learned this in college... 16 yr olds reading Honda Tuning know more 
Modified by mac_24_seven at 1:33 PM 9/10/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>lmao

Modified by mac_24_seven at 1:33 PM 9/10/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>lmao
Yea, don't really want to drive the car with no drain bolt...my luck, something will seize...
And about the fuel in the oil evaporating/burning off...it wont...The car was sitting for 6 months, and when I drained the oil the first time, it was like 10 quarts, half oil half gas. I tried lighting some in a little bowl, and the stuff didn't even light. I then drained the gas tank, and tried to light straight gas on fire that was in the tank, and guess what...no light...
Therefore, the old gas that was in the engine, will not LEAVE!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GreenBean »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FWIW, and IMO here goes,
I used to work for a Honda dealer and we got these "don't laugh" Oil Sludge Out Machines...Now hear me out...
Before we got them we had the rep who was selling them schedule a trial and he came in one afternoon and we picked an old like 90 Accord that belonged to the wife of a Honda technician who had worked for Honda for over 25 years. I mean a real hard-&$$ kind of guy. he pulled the valve cover before and we looked in, OK had a standard to go by. then re-installed the v/c and proceded to perform the service. You drain the engine oil, then connect a line to the filter housing and the other line goes to the drain bolt hole. It a nut-shell it runs the system in reverse, and I can attest it does the trick. We would not have gotten three of them before i left had it not proven itself with the "veteran" Honda techs. If I had an engine I wanted to really clean out but wasn't going to tear it apart with a re-build or anything. This is what I would have done. Afterwards the same tech removed the valve cover and we saw first hand what it removed and how clean the oil was after the next 3,500 miles. It drained out clean...So go from there. AND we never had a problem with old oil seals or anything like that. </TD></TR></TABLE>
So you're saying that I should go get one of these machines? Lol, I'm lost...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jayturboef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first go to autozone or pepboys and get a gallon of the cheapest oil you can buy...i would take the valve cover off and take out the drain bolt ...dump a good amount all over every thing and hopefully most of the dirty oil goes with it....let it drain....now put the plug back in and fill the motor....let it run for 10 minute's ,shut it off and let it cool...now drain again and now change the filter and fill with a trusted synthetic oil...... </TD></TR></TABLE>
So all this with one gallon of oil? Seems that I would need a little more...like an extra quart...? Isnt a gallon like 4.3 quarts or something like that...
Either way I think I'm gonna just do this...
And about the fuel in the oil evaporating/burning off...it wont...The car was sitting for 6 months, and when I drained the oil the first time, it was like 10 quarts, half oil half gas. I tried lighting some in a little bowl, and the stuff didn't even light. I then drained the gas tank, and tried to light straight gas on fire that was in the tank, and guess what...no light...
Therefore, the old gas that was in the engine, will not LEAVE!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GreenBean »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FWIW, and IMO here goes,
I used to work for a Honda dealer and we got these "don't laugh" Oil Sludge Out Machines...Now hear me out...
Before we got them we had the rep who was selling them schedule a trial and he came in one afternoon and we picked an old like 90 Accord that belonged to the wife of a Honda technician who had worked for Honda for over 25 years. I mean a real hard-&$$ kind of guy. he pulled the valve cover before and we looked in, OK had a standard to go by. then re-installed the v/c and proceded to perform the service. You drain the engine oil, then connect a line to the filter housing and the other line goes to the drain bolt hole. It a nut-shell it runs the system in reverse, and I can attest it does the trick. We would not have gotten three of them before i left had it not proven itself with the "veteran" Honda techs. If I had an engine I wanted to really clean out but wasn't going to tear it apart with a re-build or anything. This is what I would have done. Afterwards the same tech removed the valve cover and we saw first hand what it removed and how clean the oil was after the next 3,500 miles. It drained out clean...So go from there. AND we never had a problem with old oil seals or anything like that. </TD></TR></TABLE>
So you're saying that I should go get one of these machines? Lol, I'm lost...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jayturboef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first go to autozone or pepboys and get a gallon of the cheapest oil you can buy...i would take the valve cover off and take out the drain bolt ...dump a good amount all over every thing and hopefully most of the dirty oil goes with it....let it drain....now put the plug back in and fill the motor....let it run for 10 minute's ,shut it off and let it cool...now drain again and now change the filter and fill with a trusted synthetic oil...... </TD></TR></TABLE>
So all this with one gallon of oil? Seems that I would need a little more...like an extra quart...? Isnt a gallon like 4.3 quarts or something like that...
Either way I think I'm gonna just do this...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by denraweb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And about the fuel in the oil evaporating/burning off...it wont...The car was sitting for 6 months, and when I drained the oil the first time, it was like 10 quarts, half oil half gas. I tried lighting some in a little bowl, and the stuff didn't even light. I then drained the gas tank, and tried to light straight gas on fire that was in the tank, and guess what...no light...
Therefore, the old gas that was in the engine, will not LEAVE!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pull your motor out and flip it upside down- let it drain.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jayturboef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first go to autozone or pepboys and get a gallon of the cheapest oil you can buy...i would take the valve cover off and take out the drain bolt ...dump a good amount all over every thing and hopefully most of the dirty oil goes with it....let it drain....now put the plug back in and fill the motor....let it run for 10 minute's ,shut it off and let it cool...now drain again and now change the filter and fill with a trusted synthetic oil...... </TD></TR></TABLE>
This sounds like the easiest thing to do.
Go for eet!
Therefore, the old gas that was in the engine, will not LEAVE!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pull your motor out and flip it upside down- let it drain.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jayturboef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first go to autozone or pepboys and get a gallon of the cheapest oil you can buy...i would take the valve cover off and take out the drain bolt ...dump a good amount all over every thing and hopefully most of the dirty oil goes with it....let it drain....now put the plug back in and fill the motor....let it run for 10 minute's ,shut it off and let it cool...now drain again and now change the filter and fill with a trusted synthetic oil...... </TD></TR></TABLE>
This sounds like the easiest thing to do.
Go for eet!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrew Marquis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Pull your motor out and flip it upside down- let it drain.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I wanted to do lol...I'm gonna do the oil flush today that jayturboef posted. Hopefully it works.
Pull your motor out and flip it upside down- let it drain.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I wanted to do lol...I'm gonna do the oil flush today that jayturboef posted. Hopefully it works.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by denraweb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So you're saying that I should go get one of these machines? Lol, I'm lost...</TD></TR></TABLE>
<FONT SIZE="2">Nope, just find a shop that has one...</FONT>Or a dealer for that matter...At first I thought it was like "snake oil" but then saw that it helped. One other thing, a lot of dealers are tryin these machines out...B/C the latest and greatest Honda engines have fewer intervals for servicing then the older engines. You seen what a K24 in an Element or CRV or Accord calls for in "regular" maint...Change the oil every 5k and then the oil and filter every 10k...SO by Hondas new maint plan you have changed the oil 10-times and the filter 5-times by 100k, not to mention the "lifetime" timing chain...lol...I always wanted to see a K24 afterwards torn donw as proof for my own eyse...
<FONT SIZE="2">Nope, just find a shop that has one...</FONT>Or a dealer for that matter...At first I thought it was like "snake oil" but then saw that it helped. One other thing, a lot of dealers are tryin these machines out...B/C the latest and greatest Honda engines have fewer intervals for servicing then the older engines. You seen what a K24 in an Element or CRV or Accord calls for in "regular" maint...Change the oil every 5k and then the oil and filter every 10k...SO by Hondas new maint plan you have changed the oil 10-times and the filter 5-times by 100k, not to mention the "lifetime" timing chain...lol...I always wanted to see a K24 afterwards torn donw as proof for my own eyse...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GreenBean »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
maint...Change the oil every 5k and then the oil and filter every 10k...SO by Hondas new maint plan you have changed the oil 10-times and the filter 5-times by 100k</TD></TR></TABLE>
actually 20 times, but we get the idea
maint...Change the oil every 5k and then the oil and filter every 10k...SO by Hondas new maint plan you have changed the oil 10-times and the filter 5-times by 100k</TD></TR></TABLE>
actually 20 times, but we get the idea
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maxx5905 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">drain oil and replace with diesel fuel. Run it for about 10 min. drain it and replace with cheap oil then drain it and put in the good stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hahaha........
hahaha........
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