lowered 95 Del Sol, now what?
reset your bushings.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes there is tons of info on this. Basically, whenever you change your ride height, you must reset all the bushings. This means loosing all bolts that go through the center of a bushing, and then tightening & torquing them with the car at it's new ride height. This is important because it relieves any twist in the OEM rubber parts that results form the suspension being in the bump position all the time. It will allow the bushings to last just as long as they do on a stock vehicle (100k+ miles)...
I do it by placing the entire vehicle on jack stands. Then pick a corner and jack up an LCA until the car just barely lifts off the nearest jack-stand. Now loosen (several turns) all bolts that go through the center of a bushing. Next you simply re toqure them all to spec. Now let the LCA down and move on to the next corner of the car. And once your done, go get yourself an alignment, and consider your suspension work done...
On 88-00 Civics, all tegs, and all del sols, this works on every bushing except the oversized rear trailing arm bushings, and the inside rear UCA bushings. These bushings must be removed and "clocked" to relieve the twist. Most people don't do this as it's a pain in the *** and requires special tools. It would be best to simply replace them later on (after the originals tear up) and then clock the new ones when you install them.
Also, this doesn't apply to any sway-bar bushings, as they are not fused into position by inner sleeves...
This is some info you won't get at your local tire-shop...
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not a necessity, just prolongs bushing life
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes there is tons of info on this. Basically, whenever you change your ride height, you must reset all the bushings. This means loosing all bolts that go through the center of a bushing, and then tightening & torquing them with the car at it's new ride height. This is important because it relieves any twist in the OEM rubber parts that results form the suspension being in the bump position all the time. It will allow the bushings to last just as long as they do on a stock vehicle (100k+ miles)...
I do it by placing the entire vehicle on jack stands. Then pick a corner and jack up an LCA until the car just barely lifts off the nearest jack-stand. Now loosen (several turns) all bolts that go through the center of a bushing. Next you simply re toqure them all to spec. Now let the LCA down and move on to the next corner of the car. And once your done, go get yourself an alignment, and consider your suspension work done...

On 88-00 Civics, all tegs, and all del sols, this works on every bushing except the oversized rear trailing arm bushings, and the inside rear UCA bushings. These bushings must be removed and "clocked" to relieve the twist. Most people don't do this as it's a pain in the *** and requires special tools. It would be best to simply replace them later on (after the originals tear up) and then clock the new ones when you install them.
Also, this doesn't apply to any sway-bar bushings, as they are not fused into position by inner sleeves...
This is some info you won't get at your local tire-shop...
</TD></TR></TABLE>not a necessity, just prolongs bushing life
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