First I wet sanded with 800 grit before I painted (side skirts were white atm). Then added a base coat and several layers of black coat (let it dry after every coat). After the black coat and letting it dry, I wet sanded again with 2000 grit. After that, I sprayed on the clear coat using about 3-4 coats. Now it looks like this...My question is, do I wet sand again with 2000 grit and then use rubbing compound? Am I missing any steps? It looks like sh*t rite now. Here are some pix.







Any suggestions?

 

You gotta lay the clear on wet, if not it will be dry like you see.

 

Is that spraycan clear? Because thats about as good as it gets from the rattlecan clear. The spray bomb clear is cheap and it wont be as glossy or apply as easily as quality catylized automotive clearcoat.

You could try to wetsand with 2000 and polish it, but like I said with rattlecans thats about as good as it gets.

 

thats just put on too dry. You can get much better than that even with a rattle can, if thats what you are doing. Just spray it on nice and even until it looks pretty wet. Then the clear will level itself out and get even smoother and more glossy before it cures. I would just wet sand that down a little with 600 and reclear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SneezinCD5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You gotta lay the clear on wet, if not it will be dry like you see.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So I should buy more clear coat? Then spray it until it gets wet and shinny correct?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MEAN88Si4WS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is that spraycan clear? Because thats about as good as it gets from the rattlecan clear. The spray bomb clear is cheap and it wont be as glossy or apply as easily as quality catylized automotive clearcoat. You could try to wetsand with 2000 and polish it, but like I said with rattlecans thats about as good as it gets.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it was a spray can. I guess ill try the wet sand 2000 then polish. thx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats just put on too dry. You can get much better than that even with a rattle can, if thats what you are doing. Just spray it on nice and even until it looks pretty wet. Then the clear will level itself out and get even smoother and more glossy before it cures. I would just wet sand that down a little with 600 and reclear.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wouldn't the 600 grit remove most of the clear and even maybe some of the black coats? I think i'll just wet sand with 2000 and use rubbing compound and polish. thanks

 

Why spend all that time wet sanding and buffing. Its going to look better if you redo it w/ correct technique. If those parts are textured plastic, its going to have a slightly textured look to it, if you paint directly over the raw plastic surface.

 

put a light coat on then on the second spray it how you want it to look

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by powerflow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why spend all that time wet sanding and buffing. Its going to look better if you redo it w/ correct technique. If those parts are textured plastic, its going to have a slightly textured look to it, if you paint directly over the raw plastic surface. </TD></TR></TABLE>

redoing it as in removing all the paint? Can you direct me to the correct technique? I will greatly appreciate it.

 

Sand the the surface smooth and repaint. You don't have to remove the existing paint, if any paint is in ok condition it can be painted over. Around 800 again should be fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MEAN88Si4WS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is that spraycan clear? Because thats about as good as it gets from the rattlecan clear. The spray bomb clear is cheap and it wont be as glossy or apply as easily as quality catylized automotive clearcoat.

You could try to wetsand with 2000 and polish it, but like I said with rattlecans thats about as good as it gets.</TD></TR></TABLE>

not true at all you have to paint in coats by lightly dusting the surface for your 1st coat then a med coat for full coverage then a nice wet coat for gloss.

(let dry between stages) the way i paint with cans you dont even need to put a clear on it.

but if you put clear on then its the same steps. and make sure its hot or warm out and let it bake inthe sun