So it's not that I haven't done it before, but I haven't done it in awhile. After I did my first clutch removal and installation, I heard that I was suppose to use blue locktite on the flywheel bolts. Is that true? Other than that, what are some good tips and advice before I start this job. I will be working in my garage without a rack although this time I will be using a tranny jack. Let me know guys. Thanks

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1732856

 

Have fun! Next time I change my clutch I'll pull the whole engine and upgrade other things while I'm at it.

Pirate

 

tip... dont even try to remove the lower ball joint, there is no point and you just risk hurting it. separate the knuckle at the upper ball joint and separate the tie rod end also. that will give you enough clearance to get the axle out.

 

I break the lower ball joint every time. Whatcu talkin' 'bout Willis??

 

^ Same, what are you talking about?

I just did mine, and I pulled the whole engine. It let me do some little stuff I had wanted to, plus made the clutch install a 5 min project...

Of course while I had the engine out, I got to fix my tranny problem. I had lost 5th/R. Eventually 5th came back but R was basically nonexistent. Can you see why? Hahaha...

Tranny


5th gear syncro sleeve...haha...


2 days, $140 later and I am good to go!

 

yea, already looked at that, but it doesnt cover some things

 

buy a manual.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluedlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tip... dont even try to remove the lower ball joint, there is no point and you just risk hurting it. separate the knuckle at the upper ball joint and separate the tie rod end also. that will give you enough clearance to get the axle out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Uh, you just hit the lower arm part with a BFH and it'll pop right out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Finest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Uh, you just hit the lower arm part with a BFH and it'll pop right out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup, but sometimes you need an RBFH. I always go the lower ball joint route, I try not to mess with tie rods unless I have to.

 

maybe you all have some perfect ball joints, but my lude is an 01 and i could NOT get it busted loose, no matter what method i used. i found i can do it by removing the upper BJ and tie rod end, which takes two seconds and I have achieved the same thing. trust me, when you have to replace a $170 knuckle just because the end of the ball joint is mushroomed, you'll do the same thing.

 

I've never removed the upper BJ or had to pop the tie rod. I never used a RRGBFH either. I just use a 2-jaw bearing puller and a piece of brass (to prevent mushrooming the LBJ) to separate the ball lower ball joint. Just twist the threaded part of the bearing puller and it pushes out the LBJ. *shrug* I guess you do it whatever way you can.

Pirate

 

what sort of brass? is this a brass nut? I'm going to be removing half shafts and will have to pope out the lower ball joint, I have a jaw puller so that will help, but I do worry about mushrooming. So what is used to prevent this. Also on re-install is it just sliding the threads back through and torquing it to spec?

 

You can buy the ball joints separate through Honda. They don't show a PN, but one does exist. I've done it more than once now.

I use a piece of aluminum flat stock when I separate ball joints. I put the aluminum stock between the end of the pittman puller and the ball joint shaft. I install the nut upside down to protect the threads on the ball joint. I use the stock for two things: one - the aluminum is softer, so it keeps the ball joint shaft from deforming, two - I use the stock to keep the pittman arm from rotating as I tighten the bolt to put additional pressure on the ball joint. Since I started doing this, I haven't had any problems, even on Preludes whose lower ball joints were grossly overtorqued by an impact (i.e. this last clutch job I did where the lower ball joints sounded like gun shots when I separated them from the LCA!).

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluedlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe you all have some perfect ball joints, but my lude is an 01 and i could NOT get it busted loose, no matter what method i used. i found i can do it by removing the upper BJ and tie rod end, which takes two seconds and I have achieved the same thing. trust me, when you have to replace a $170 knuckle just because the end of the ball joint is mushroomed, you'll do the same thing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Honestly bro get a helms or even a 20$ chilton.....helms is way better and detailed....while the chilton will get the job done for your clutch,but pretty much sucks.

 

Just buy a $12 balljoint separator at Pepboys, works like a charm. I dont understand why people beat on em with hammers when you can buy a tool thats so cheap and do it so easily.

 

done, thanks guys...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can buy the ball joints separate through Honda. They don't show a PN, but one does exist. I've done it more than once now.

I use a piece of aluminum flat stock when I separate ball joints. I put the aluminum stock between the end of the pittman puller and the ball joint shaft. I install the nut upside down to protect the threads on the ball joint. I use the stock for two things: one - the aluminum is softer, so it keeps the ball joint shaft from deforming, two - I use the stock to keep the pittman arm from rotating as I tighten the bolt to put additional pressure on the ball joint. Since I started doing this, I haven't had any problems, even on Preludes whose lower ball joints were grossly overtorqued by an impact (i.e. this last clutch job I did where the lower ball joints sounded like gun shots when I separated them from the LCA!).

</TD></TR></TABLE>

i even tried the pitman arm puller. after i mushroomed the BJ, and i couldnt bust it loose. the tip of the pull would push off the side of the bolt, and i was using a 4' breaker to get the pitman puller as hard as i could get it. but nada!! i actually did try everything, and ended up bring the LCA and knuckle together to the machine shop. something was messed up opn the passenger side of my car and made all my suspension bolts somehow fuse into place. inner LCA bolt was fused to the bushing, so nothing got that out, i ended up cutting the bolt at both end and prying it away from the chassis. bolt holding the damper fork to the LCA was also fused to the bushing, but a couple DAYS of beaitng it with a 3lb sledge got it out. and then the lower BJ like i said was fused. my suspension horrors!!! but i walked away from it know exactly how every suspension component works on the front end of a 5th gen base model

 

Try Behan's clutch DIY, it's a little more detailed with more picshars.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=907431