Y7 tranny and clutch replacement - tips
12-30-2003, 04:02 AM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Y7 tranny and clutch replacement - tips
So I changed out my tired Y7 tranny for a fresher unit (input shaft bearing and clutch were just about done). Mine had 188k, the used one had 60k. In any event, just wanted to share some hints from the experience.
Tools that made the job EASY (start to finish = 5hrs):
Helms
Engine hoist
Jack
Impact gun
Air ratchet
10lb mini-sledge
Without the above tools, the job would have been tough to say the least....there were more than a few stubborn bolts that the impact wrestled with for a moment.
Use the jack to lower/raise the tranny and move it into place...made for simple fitment without using a lot of muscle.
I didn't remove the axles from the spindle/hub. Just unbolt the shock fork from the LCA and knock the LCA off the lower ball joint....it leaves plenty of room to get the axle out of the tranny. Using the 10lb mini-sledge and 2-3 taps (on the LCA) caused the LCA and ball joint to seperate with ease. I've seen mention of using a long screwdriver to leverage against the LCA to help aid in popping it off while also using a hammer, but I did not have to do this.
While you've got **** apart, take a few moments to clean up the grounds, both on the engine/brackets and frame. Also clean up the starter ring terminal if its got a little crud on it.
Use a little Loc-tite on the pressure plate bolts. Helms says 19ft-lbs (if I recall correctly). I've seen mention of people having these bolts back out on them after some miles have been accrued. Perhaps they didn't torque them correctly...I dunno, but its cheap insurance, so why not. You also have to find a way to stop the flywheel from turning...a second set of hands and a sturdy flat head screwdriver wedged in the flywheel teeth works like a champ.
You do not need to remove the whole starter....just the lower bolt. The top one threads into the tranny itself, while the lower one goes through the tranny and threads into the block.
On the flywheel, along with the 6 holes used to secure it to the crank, there was an additional smaller hole drilled which matches up with a smaller hole in the crank. I made sure to line these two holes back up....but would anyone know if these are used for balancing? Would vibration ensue is not lined up correctly?
That should be about it....comments/suggestions are always welcome.
Tools that made the job EASY (start to finish = 5hrs):
Helms
Engine hoist
Jack
Impact gun
Air ratchet
10lb mini-sledge
Without the above tools, the job would have been tough to say the least....there were more than a few stubborn bolts that the impact wrestled with for a moment.
Use the jack to lower/raise the tranny and move it into place...made for simple fitment without using a lot of muscle.
I didn't remove the axles from the spindle/hub. Just unbolt the shock fork from the LCA and knock the LCA off the lower ball joint....it leaves plenty of room to get the axle out of the tranny. Using the 10lb mini-sledge and 2-3 taps (on the LCA) caused the LCA and ball joint to seperate with ease. I've seen mention of using a long screwdriver to leverage against the LCA to help aid in popping it off while also using a hammer, but I did not have to do this.
While you've got **** apart, take a few moments to clean up the grounds, both on the engine/brackets and frame. Also clean up the starter ring terminal if its got a little crud on it.
Use a little Loc-tite on the pressure plate bolts. Helms says 19ft-lbs (if I recall correctly). I've seen mention of people having these bolts back out on them after some miles have been accrued. Perhaps they didn't torque them correctly...I dunno, but its cheap insurance, so why not. You also have to find a way to stop the flywheel from turning...a second set of hands and a sturdy flat head screwdriver wedged in the flywheel teeth works like a champ.
You do not need to remove the whole starter....just the lower bolt. The top one threads into the tranny itself, while the lower one goes through the tranny and threads into the block.
On the flywheel, along with the 6 holes used to secure it to the crank, there was an additional smaller hole drilled which matches up with a smaller hole in the crank. I made sure to line these two holes back up....but would anyone know if these are used for balancing? Would vibration ensue is not lined up correctly?
That should be about it....comments/suggestions are always welcome.
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