b16a2 stoked ta 1.7L with b17a crank
Hi I'm need some help. I've just aciquired a b17a crank, pistons, and rods and my b16a engine will be here on Monday. The compression test on the engine was 175 psi across all four cyl. When the guy sent me the rods he didn't mark which cyl. it came from. I'll be using the b17 crank and rods and my b16a piston to achieve a higher compression but i'm just wondering if it would matter if i just stuck any rods it any cyl. and should I use new piston rings if i'm just going to take them out and put them right back in? Do I have to follow the break in procedure after I install the parts because it sounds scary when they say there in no oil pressure the first few sec and the life of your engine is very critical at this point if its to survive.. thanks -david
Hi I'm need some help. I've just aciquired a b17a crank, pistons, and rods and my b16a engine will be here on Monday. The compression test on the engine was 175 psi across all four cyl. When the guy sent me the rods he didn't mark which cyl. it came from. I'll be using the b17 crank and rods and my b16a piston to achieve a higher compression but i'm just wondering if it would matter if i just stuck any rods it any cyl. and should I use new piston rings if i'm just going to take them out and put them right back in? Do I have to follow the break in procedure after I install the parts because it sounds scary when they say there in no oil pressure the first few sec and the life of your engine is very critical at this point if its to survive.. thanks -david
, but B16A pistons should be real nice.You have to stick with the B17A rods if you use the B17A crank in the B16A block. NO other rod, unless you get some custom made & sized rod, will work with this setup you're doing. I suggest you use brand new piston rings and rod/crank bearings also. But if you cant afford the rod/crank bearings I believe you can reuse those if they're still good.
If I were you, yes I would take it easy for about the first 500miles once you're done stroking the B16A to 1.7L....just to be on the safe side --nothing wrong with that.
just wondeing if any machine shop would be able to balance my crank, rods , and pistons. I have a hard time trusting people that really don't know what their doing. thanks
just wondeing if any machine shop would be able to balance my crank, rods , and pistons. I have a hard time trusting people that really don't know what their doing. thanks
[Modified by Katman, 12:40 PM 6/14/2002]
Hi I'm need some help. I've just aciquired a b17a crank, pistons, and rods and my b16a engine will be here on Monday. The compression test on the engine was 175 psi across all four cyl. When the guy sent me the rods he didn't mark which cyl. it came from.
I'll be using the b17 crank and rods and my b16a piston to achieve a higher compression
but i'm just wondering if it would matter if i just stuck any rods it any cyl. and should I use new piston rings if i'm just going to take them out and put them right back in?
Do I have to follow the break in procedure after I install the parts because it sounds scary when they say there in no oil pressure the first few sec and the life of your engine is very critical at this point if its to survive
so if you're looking to just increase compression, why don't you install a thinner gasket or mill the head?
....Mike, didn't you know that B17A's come with flat pistons similar to US B18C1 pistons? they do...
hey thanks for all the reply, but I never really understood all the codes on the crank. The rods are numbered 1-4 but I know that that has nothing to do with whch cylinder it's suppose ta sit in. Also is there any way to tell if the crank I got is really from a b17a ... the rods and pistons are code so I can verify that.. but how bout the crank..?
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The reason I don't want to mill the head is because I don't have the funds to really do all I want to do. I have a limited money to get the engine and also tune it up. like change the timing belt, spark plugs...etc and I want to get the rotating assy. balanced.. If I had the money I would go with CTR pistons. stronger Rods .. bored..decked.... blah blah blah.... but I'm just going to do the best I can with the money I have to have a nice setup for now..
plus I got a hella of a deal on a b16a engine from ebay. Got the WHOLE engine with everything included for only $1500.00 it came from a recyclying place that pulled it out of a 96 civic and they couldn't verify what engine it was because I guess they only know about the b16a2.. they knew it was an imported engine and started the bid really low and nobody bidding on it so I got it. Compression result where really good too like 175psi across all four cylinder. They also offered me a 6 months warranty on all parts..too...kool eeah
to mike just wondering what the reason behind unpluging the dis. to crank the engine? I heard that when Honda start out new engine they heavy lube the parts.. Is there any way I can also do that..
hey thanks for all the reply, but I never really understood all the codes on the crank. The rods are numbered 1-4 but I know that that has nothing to do with whch cylinder it's suppose ta sit in. Also is there any way to tell if the crank I got is really from a b17a ... the rods and pistons are code so I can verify that.. but how bout the crank..?
Does anybody know if the 99 civic dx shift linkage could be used on the b16a engine cuz i'm kinda lazy to take it out.. thanks
Damn it was worth a tried. Umm how bout changing the b17a over, do you guys change the head gasket and all that other stuff you do when you open your engine because I was looking at all these maintence things and after you add them all up you've spent hundreds of dollar. head gasket $55.00 timing belt $45 water pump $85 piston rings (4) $100 spark plugs (4) $10 cylinder hone $75 .. wow would it even matter if I balance the crank or not because I heard Honda parts are pretty much well balanced already. Wow this ait no joke if u want to build it right...
ok I need a little help . the motor I got is a jdm b16a engine and I was wondering if its the same as the b16a2.. I need a axle timing belt and water pump.. so can I just go to the honda dealer and buy all that from a b16a2... Also as I was taking the motor apart I was thinking might as well get a clutch right now but just as I got the tranny off I saw a yellow cover.. yup ACT baby!!
the reason for unplugging the distributor or ECU fuse on initial startup is to get the entire motor good and lubricated before it actually starts.
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