Besides tires and LSD, which mod will most improve handling? Sway bars? Strut bars? coilovers? spring/strut combo? Also what would be the best bang for the buck?

 

Sway bars (very good) = less body roll and you can go from oversteer to understeer or vise-versa.

Coilovers or strut/spring combo (also very good) = Will also reduce body roll, keep movement of the car to a minimum...relative to the wheels anyway, height adjustment (usually) for lower center of gravity and aerodynamic improvement, possible weight reduction, etc...probably more.

Strut bars (questionable) = Some say they help, some say they're useless....no biggie either way.

Lighter wheels are also very good, weight reduction, roll cage, bushings, etc.

 

Oh wow. Thanks for the quick and informative reply. What about tie bars?

 

Minimal. I don't even use a front upper tie bar on my track car. Lower tie bars are useless, IMO. I do have a rear upper tie bar, kind of. It's part of the cage.

 

replacing worn bushings with fresh poly will definitely make the car feel more solid also.

 

I am all about my Progress rear sway bar!
Understeer nothing but a memory now.....I get the car rotating like its RWD now....so much that I have actually been Black Flagged for drifting!
I run it with a Koni/GC combo at 380fr/400r. Getting rid of the nose dive when braking was huge as I am Mr Late-braker on the track! I was so sick of scraping my front mud flaps with the Eibachs that I took them off!
I also run a Cusco front strut bar and Spoon rear strut bar because it just makes geometrical sense to me.

This is me having fun on the KONI/GC/Progress/Cusco/Spoon combo!
The 2nd pic of my other Prelude is Koni/Eibach combo with no RSB/FSTB/RSTB

 

You must do more trail braking than I do. My car still feels like it needs a tad more rear bar, and I run 750 lb/in front and 950 lb/in rear spring rates with a stock front bar and a 1.25"x0.125" custom 3 piece rear sway bar.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You must do more trail braking than I do. My car still feels like it needs a tad more rear bar, and I run 750 lb/in front and 950 lb/in rear spring rates with a stock front bar and a 1.25"x0.125" custom 3 piece rear sway bar.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The only track I have trail braked at was Hallett.....I cite lack of alignment and experience with the new setup for that. Now my car is ALL DISCO! I also run the Progress RSB in the middle setting as I was told not to even try the full stiff setting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by :=:NirVTEC:=: &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The only track I have trail braked at was Hallett.....I cite lack of alignment and experience with the new setup for that. Now my car is ALL DISCO! I also run the Progress RSB in the middle setting as I was told not to even try the full stiff setting.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Any reason why not adjusting the rear bar to full stiffness? Is it because it will tear your subframe apart? Have any of you had this happen or know the reason why?

 

I haven't had time to experiment....if it works, I would do it.

Billy, youre running Hoosiers aren't you? That could be why I rotate easier than you, I run RA1's.

 

I currently run Hoosiers, but I'm switching to RA1s due to HC rules.

It shouldn't matter. The ratio of grip front to rear should be same, unless you're using a staggered tire setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I currently run Hoosiers, but I'm switching to RA1s due to HC rules.

It shouldn't matter. The ratio of grip front to rear should be same, unless you're using a staggered tire setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe I push it harder....
Hahahahaha!!!