Fuel pressure question
Okay, on a b16a, should the fuel pressure jump up while trying to crank it? When you turn the ignition on and prime it, it goes to 38 psi which is normal. But when I try to crank it up, it will jump up to 50 psi or so. Thanks.
Okay, cool, so the fuel pressure is suppose to go up while cranking it. So there isn't anything wrong with my fuel pressure regulator. Then why would my engine be flooding?
maybe you've got an injector leak. you can check this by checking your engine oil.
maybe your car isnt firing a on either one of the pistons, this will cause your engine to shake while idling and it would bog all kinds. also it will blow out white dust, from the muffler from what i've seen.
just remove your plugs and see which spark plug is the wet one. if they're all wet then it could be your fuel system. but if its one of them. maybe you need a new distributer, or spark plug wires. thats all.
maybe your car isnt firing a on either one of the pistons, this will cause your engine to shake while idling and it would bog all kinds. also it will blow out white dust, from the muffler from what i've seen.
just remove your plugs and see which spark plug is the wet one. if they're all wet then it could be your fuel system. but if its one of them. maybe you need a new distributer, or spark plug wires. thats all.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoon_concept_eg6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe you've got an injector leak. you can check this by checking your engine oil.
maybe your car isnt firing a on either one of the pistons, this will cause your engine to shake while idling and it would bog all kinds. also it will blow out white dust, from the muffler from what i've seen.
just remove your plugs and see which spark plug is the wet one. if they're all wet then it could be your fuel system. but if its one of them. maybe you need a new distributer, or spark plug wires. thats all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your sig says your running a p72... why?
hmmmm...
what makes you think its flooding?
gotta give more details or youll get answers like that.^
maybe your car isnt firing a on either one of the pistons, this will cause your engine to shake while idling and it would bog all kinds. also it will blow out white dust, from the muffler from what i've seen.
just remove your plugs and see which spark plug is the wet one. if they're all wet then it could be your fuel system. but if its one of them. maybe you need a new distributer, or spark plug wires. thats all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your sig says your running a p72... why?
hmmmm...
what makes you think its flooding?
gotta give more details or youll get answers like that.^
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,443
Likes: 2
From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
@ OP:
Is the vacuum line disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator when you're checking it? ("No") - that's why you're getting an incorrect reading + a spike
.
EDIT:
It has to be without a vacuum line on it to get a static reading - it shouldn't change. Also, stick a rag or something on the end of the line so your idle doesn't go crazy due to the vacuum leak.
Is the vacuum line disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator when you're checking it? ("No") - that's why you're getting an incorrect reading + a spike
.EDIT:
It has to be without a vacuum line on it to get a static reading - it shouldn't change. Also, stick a rag or something on the end of the line so your idle doesn't go crazy due to the vacuum leak.
I think its flooding because when I try to start it, there is a strong gas smell. Then when I unplug the injectors, it actually fires like it is burning off the fuel just sitting in the cylinders. It shoots out a big puff of black smoke too. Then after a second or so, it will sputter out.
I have replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap, ignition coil, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, pcv valve and i also sent the injectors out to have them cleaned and rebalanced. When I put the second fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, my fuel pressure gauge always showed 0.
The vacuum line is also connected. I can't get it to even crank up to idle.
I have replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap, ignition coil, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, pcv valve and i also sent the injectors out to have them cleaned and rebalanced. When I put the second fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, my fuel pressure gauge always showed 0.
The vacuum line is also connected. I can't get it to even crank up to idle.
Also, here is something I posted when it first started happening.
Okay, so I was driving the other day on the interstate on the way to work and the car bogged for second sputtered then got going. I didn't think much of it. well, when I left work the car wouldn't start. Eventually it did and it was like it was running on 3 cylinders and smoke was coming from the tailpipe. It had a distict gas smell. Well, as I am trying to accelerate, it boggs really bad like the engine jsut cut off, I am holding the gas still and it sounds like a backfire and then it is back to normal. What it seemed like was that only 2 cylinders were firing and then the 3rd and fourth finally kicked in and away I went. I am not sure want happened. So, I make it home. I try driving it the next day and it does the same thing, this time it cut off on me. But I did get it to crank again and made it home. So, I thought it was the plugs and wires, I went and got new ones it started fine. I drove it to the autoparts store to get injector cleaner. Then I went to the gas station to fill up and put it in. When trying to leave the gas station, it wouldn't start. After holding the gas and cranking for a while, it finally fired, but barely. It was driving like on 3 cylinders, but I made it home but it died coming down the hill to my house. So, I take out the injectors to see if they are spitting fuel, and it seems like they are. While doing that, i try to crank the car and it fires for a few seconds and sputters out. I think some cylinders had fuel in them. Well, I also pull the wires and check for spark were sparking. So I put it all together and crank it and it fires like normal. I then take it for a drive for about 15 or 20 minutes, I even get on it pretty hard and it is driving like normal. Well, then today, I tried firing it and it sounded bad, but it idled. I noticed today that the fuel pressure gauge was bouncing around too. Like between 35 and 45 PSI, is that normal? I also pulled each spark plug while idle and it bogged some more, but each one was sparking. I change the fuel filter, pcv valve and the o rings on the injectors. Now I tried firing it, and it won't turn over. I smell a distict fuel smell again. I think its a fuel problem. Could the injectors be bad? Or injector wiring? Its sort of speratic. If I went to try it now, it might fire. Here is a bit about the car, its a tuned turbo b16 with 440cc rc injectors. I don't drive the car that much either, once a week. I am driving myself crazy trying to figure out what it is, I jsut can't do it.
Okay, so I was driving the other day on the interstate on the way to work and the car bogged for second sputtered then got going. I didn't think much of it. well, when I left work the car wouldn't start. Eventually it did and it was like it was running on 3 cylinders and smoke was coming from the tailpipe. It had a distict gas smell. Well, as I am trying to accelerate, it boggs really bad like the engine jsut cut off, I am holding the gas still and it sounds like a backfire and then it is back to normal. What it seemed like was that only 2 cylinders were firing and then the 3rd and fourth finally kicked in and away I went. I am not sure want happened. So, I make it home. I try driving it the next day and it does the same thing, this time it cut off on me. But I did get it to crank again and made it home. So, I thought it was the plugs and wires, I went and got new ones it started fine. I drove it to the autoparts store to get injector cleaner. Then I went to the gas station to fill up and put it in. When trying to leave the gas station, it wouldn't start. After holding the gas and cranking for a while, it finally fired, but barely. It was driving like on 3 cylinders, but I made it home but it died coming down the hill to my house. So, I take out the injectors to see if they are spitting fuel, and it seems like they are. While doing that, i try to crank the car and it fires for a few seconds and sputters out. I think some cylinders had fuel in them. Well, I also pull the wires and check for spark were sparking. So I put it all together and crank it and it fires like normal. I then take it for a drive for about 15 or 20 minutes, I even get on it pretty hard and it is driving like normal. Well, then today, I tried firing it and it sounded bad, but it idled. I noticed today that the fuel pressure gauge was bouncing around too. Like between 35 and 45 PSI, is that normal? I also pulled each spark plug while idle and it bogged some more, but each one was sparking. I change the fuel filter, pcv valve and the o rings on the injectors. Now I tried firing it, and it won't turn over. I smell a distict fuel smell again. I think its a fuel problem. Could the injectors be bad? Or injector wiring? Its sort of speratic. If I went to try it now, it might fire. Here is a bit about the car, its a tuned turbo b16 with 440cc rc injectors. I don't drive the car that much either, once a week. I am driving myself crazy trying to figure out what it is, I jsut can't do it.
im running a p72 because i bought it from a friend after testing it on my hatch and finding out it ran a lot better than the sorry P06 that i got from Ebay. I'd much rather have the P28 which i use to have but it got stolen when my car was broken into.
but the ecu is a skunk2 program with vtec engagement at 5800rpm. not bad. only thing that sucks is its unlimited rev so i just gotta be 100% when shifting.
but the ecu is a skunk2 program with vtec engagement at 5800rpm. not bad. only thing that sucks is its unlimited rev so i just gotta be 100% when shifting.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoon_concept_eg6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im running a p72 because i bought it from a friend after testing it on my hatch and finding out it ran a lot better than the sorry P06 that i got from Ebay. I'd much rather have the P28 which i use to have but it got stolen when my car was broken into.
but the ecu is a skunk2 program with vtec engagement at 5800rpm. not bad. only thing that sucks is its unlimited rev so i just gotta be 100% when shifting.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it would be a good idea for you to take that skunk ship and trash it, break it b4 you trash it, so noone ever finds it and uses it.
skunk chips
great way to really fuckup your motor.
Pyapal me 10$ for the cost of a new chip, ill mail you a tuned bin from a LSV with simple header intake exhaust. you will then know what you have been misisng. next best thing would be a tune on the dyno.
your vtec engauges at 5800, no thats not good. thats a bit late.
most all you LSV motors should have a cross between 5100-5400
if your just a stock LSV then 5300 is bout right.
but the ecu is a skunk2 program with vtec engagement at 5800rpm. not bad. only thing that sucks is its unlimited rev so i just gotta be 100% when shifting.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it would be a good idea for you to take that skunk ship and trash it, break it b4 you trash it, so noone ever finds it and uses it.
skunk chips
great way to really fuckup your motor.
Pyapal me 10$ for the cost of a new chip, ill mail you a tuned bin from a LSV with simple header intake exhaust. you will then know what you have been misisng. next best thing would be a tune on the dyno.
your vtec engauges at 5800, no thats not good. thats a bit late.
most all you LSV motors should have a cross between 5100-5400
if your just a stock LSV then 5300 is bout right.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,443
Likes: 2
From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicSI1018 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think its flooding because when I try to start it, there is a strong gas smell. Then when I unplug the injectors, it actually fires like it is burning off the fuel just sitting in the cylinders. It shoots out a big puff of black smoke too. Then after a second or so, it will sputter out.
I have replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap, ignition coil, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, pcv valve and i also sent the injectors out to have them cleaned and rebalanced. When I put the second fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, my fuel pressure gauge always showed 0.
The vacuum line is also connected. I can't get it to even crank up to idle. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Lemme try saying that again because you obviously didn't hear me the first time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">@ OP:
Is the vacuum line disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator when you're checking it? ("No") - that's why you're getting an incorrect reading + a spike .
EDIT:
It has to be without a vacuum line on it to get a static reading - it shouldn't change. Also, stick a rag or something on the end of the line so your idle doesn't go crazy due to the vacuum leak.</TD></TR></TABLE>
When it's connected, the intake mani is at about ~-20in Hg b/c your engine is pulling a vacuum on the fuel pressure regulator, therefore, any reading you take at the gauge with that vacuum line connected, is inaccurate, and will change with your RPM 'n such.
It is not supposed to change, at all. You NEED to disconnect that vacuum line or the reading you get is like 40% falsified.
I have replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap, ignition coil, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, pcv valve and i also sent the injectors out to have them cleaned and rebalanced. When I put the second fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, my fuel pressure gauge always showed 0.
The vacuum line is also connected. I can't get it to even crank up to idle. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Lemme try saying that again because you obviously didn't hear me the first time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">@ OP:
Is the vacuum line disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator when you're checking it? ("No") - that's why you're getting an incorrect reading + a spike .
EDIT:
It has to be without a vacuum line on it to get a static reading - it shouldn't change. Also, stick a rag or something on the end of the line so your idle doesn't go crazy due to the vacuum leak.</TD></TR></TABLE>
When it's connected, the intake mani is at about ~-20in Hg b/c your engine is pulling a vacuum on the fuel pressure regulator, therefore, any reading you take at the gauge with that vacuum line connected, is inaccurate, and will change with your RPM 'n such.
It is not supposed to change, at all. You NEED to disconnect that vacuum line or the reading you get is like 40% falsified.
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