I've got a 1998 Integra Type R theft recovery that I have rebuilt as a weekend track car. The motor is an OEM replacement block bought from Acura Carland in GA. It has somewhere in the neighborhood of 30-40k miles on it. I bought the motor used and have 30 miles on it total. I ran it to a lot of problems getting the car going for ITR Expo and the tranny let go 5 minutes in to the first session.

I'm now trying to get the car going for We-Todd Expo. I just put a new tranny in the car and that is working great(along with a new clutch, and flywheel). One problem I had is that the gauge cluster that I bought does not have a working temperature gauge in it. I decided to go ahead and buy an Autometer water temp, oil temp, and oil pressure gauge. I got the gauges installed and wired up last night.

Oil Temp Gauge: Welded the bung in to the oil pan, installation was no problem. Works like a champ.

Oil Pressure Gauge: I have the wrong feed line so the sensor is not hooked up yet.

Water Temp Gauge: Pretty straight forward installation. I put a T adapter in the smaller coolant line that comes off the back of the thermostat housing and loops back to the back side of the intake manifold. With the sensor attached to here, I can only get the car to read up to 130 degrees F. I drove the car for a few miles and it did not go above 130 F but the oil did come up to about 200 degrees F. It was about 97 degrees outside when I did this. It seemed like the thermostat was stuck open so I decided to replace it since I had new spare one in my garage after the car cooled down. The thermostat replacement went like it should and I filled the car with coolant again and fired it up. I let the car warm up and the gauge read the same thing, about 125 degrees. If I felt the upper radiator hose, it was HOT. I had the radiator cap off and would fill as the thermostat opened (barely took any more). The coolant was steaming in the radiator. I felt the lower radiator hose and it was completely cool, not warm at all. I thought this was very strange so I shut the car off and disconnected the wire from the factory temp sensor in the head. I connected the Autometer gauge to the oem sensor in the head and started the car again. This is what it read after about 7 minutes of idling (80 degrees outside):

I'm not even sure if this is accurate since I am using an OEM Honda temp sensor.

The oil temp gauge barely came up after 7 minutes of idling:


What the hell is going on? It seems like a bad water pump to me, but I am not 100% sure. I hate to take the time and money to replace this if it is not the problem. I'm open to any ideas. If I can't get the car going reliably, I probably won't be going to We-Todd Expo even though I've already paid .

 

Can you tell if the coolant is circulating? Sounds like the water pump, or another bad thermostat.

 

I just went through some very similar troubles.
I got frustrated and just replaced the radiator, the thermostat, and the fan switch all at once.
My fan still doesn't come on, but the overheating stopped.
The weird thing is if I jump the connector that plugs into the fan switch straight to the battery the fan comes on, so I know the fan itself is good, and the wiring, and I've tried the 2 switches I had, and one new one, but it just never comes on....
Anyway, back to your problem, like ITR184 said, I'd probably try another thermostat just to make sure.

 

try checking your fuse for the fan too then...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR184 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can you tell if the coolant is circulating? Sounds like the water pump, or another bad thermostat. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I just put in brand new Honda thermostat. I doubt it is bad out of the packaging. I can't tell if the coolant is circulating. I am assuming not since the lower hose is so cool to the touch.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SYTFU Tommy. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try checking your fuse for the fan too then...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a manual toggle switch for the fan. I do this so I can keep the fan running after track sessions.

 

did you instal the thermostat correct?

How old is the water pump, can you hear noise/see coolent/ what does the stock temp gauge read?

Was it over heating before you started putting ricer gagues in your ride?

Can you smell koolent?

What is your shoe size? 32 Red ^like my spellin

 

the automerter gauge is incorrect when using the stock sensor, as the resistance is different. however, it still may be over heating and thats obviously another issue

 

sounds like air in the cooling system

try this.

put a pan under the radiator.
get the car up to temp

get a few rags and take of the radiator cap. steam will come out so becareful do it slowly.

let steam billow out and top off coolant when done a.

i really feel you got a air bubble in it that whay yo ugot two diff temps i nthe hoses

pm me if you have any more issues

 

just start the car with no cap on

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hooch’n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you instal the thermostat correct?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's hard to F that up........

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hooch’n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How old is the water pump, can you hear noise/see coolent/ what does the stock temp gauge read?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bradstard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The motor is an OEM replacement block bought from Acura Carland in GA. It has somewhere in the neighborhood of 30-40k miles on it. I bought the motor used and have 30 miles on it total.

One problem I had is that the gauge cluster that I bought does not have a working temperature gauge in it. I decided to go ahead and buy an Autometer water temp, oil temp, and oil pressure gauge. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hooch’n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Was it over heating before you started putting ricer gagues in your ride?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dunno...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hooch’n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can you smell koolent?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Casey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the automerter gauge is incorrect when using the stock sensor, as the resistance is different. however, it still may be over heating and thats obviously another issue</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm going to put the Autometer sensor in the stock location tonight and see if that makes a differene.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bradstard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm going to put the Autometer sensor in the stock location tonight and see if that makes a differene.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm thinking this would be a good idea (a good trouble shootign approach so we can compare).

If you need a stock cluster(for temp guage), i have a gs-r unit laying around that you are more than welcome to borrow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bradstard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm going to put the Autometer sensor in the stock location tonight and see if that makes a differene.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it will. it fits right in there as well. it will probably still read a little bit high as thats right in the head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Casey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it will. it fits right in there as well. it will probably still read a little bit high as thats right in the head.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The ITR thermostat is a 78 degree C. That is 173 degrees F. Well I put the autometer sensor in the head, let it idle until it go up to 160 and I turned the radiator fan on. Let it idle for another 20 minutes, she stayed right at 180 degrees F. I don't want to **** my neighbors off and take it out at 10:00pm but everything appears to be good. It idled for a total of 30 minutes with no problems (like that didn't **** my neighbors off). Thanks for the help guys! Now do I tow it or drive it to We-Todd?

 

craziness, brad. i'm sorry about all of this... i know while i had the engine the water pump was never replaced. hopefully, you've solved your problems. good luck with the upcoming event!

 

Glad to hear this is all worked out!!!

See you this weekend!