is this true??

 

your stock ecu advances timing, not the afc

without a chipped ecu to pull timing under boost, your ecu always thinks that you are in the last column of your timing map in vacuum. it will advance timing as if it were a normal n/a engine

 

would a boost timing master do the trick....
http://www.msdignition.com/tc_18.htm

 

^^dont want to switch to obd1 because of emmisions testing....

and i dont think that hondata s200 will work, i need to figure out something, because the FMU is not going to cut it anymore.

 

If AEM makes an EMS for your setup, that would be your best bet.

 

Yes, the MSD BTM will work, but it makes for a hell of a ghetto rigged setup.

 

get an obd1 conversion harness with a chipped obd1 ecu. switch back to stock ecu and injectors when you need to get inspected.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike@synapse motorsport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get an obd1 conversion harness with a chipped obd1 ecu. switch back to stock ecu and injectors when you need to get inspected.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, but i would also have to get a 3bar map sensor, is that plug and play??
also i would have to switch my IAC from 3 to 2 wire, and also distributor aswell if I am not mistaken....

 

Consider keeping your FMU, and installing an AFC to fine tune things.

No worries about advancing the timing, and if you couple it with a plug-n-play harness, you can get back to stock very quickly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike@synapse motorsport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get an obd1 conversion harness with a chipped obd1 ecu. switch back to stock ecu and injectors when you need to get inspected.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly. Anything else except the AEM route is just a band-aide fix.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MooreBoost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, the MSD BTM will work, but it makes for a hell of a ghetto rigged setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

look at old threads by 99lspwr
frank was running insane boost with 310's btm, a 12:1 fmu. like 15 or 17 psi with it and it was working, i know it isnt the way to go, but for some reason, with him it worked.

 

cool this is what i want to hear....

i am going to eventually run the aem ems, or hondata, but i have to register it in another area of wisconsin, which is not the easiest thing to do around here.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MooreBoost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Consider keeping your FMU, and installing an AFC to fine tune things.

No worries about advancing the timing, and if you couple it with a plug-n-play harness, you can get back to stock very quickly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

plug and play harness for the AFC correct??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93turbo16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Exactly. Anything else except the AEM route is just a band-aide fix.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i understand.....however what about the 3 bar map, distributor, and IAC?

 

why not try this aem product it lets you use your current computer kinda like a hondata for obd2, and still can be smogged http://www.aempower.com/ViewCa...D=116

 

If you are running the afc in the neg. numbers then i would be advancing timing how much would depend on what setting you are at

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not try this aem product it lets you use your current computer kinda like a hondata for obd2, and still can be smogged http://www.aempower.com/ViewCa...D=116</TD></TR></TABLE>

i like this.... damn, didnt even see this..i have to read more on it.
i appreciate all the help you guys, really not to get all gay and stuff...but figuring this stuff out kinda gets me stressed.
now time for work....the 3rd shift grind..

-as far as the afc, i just want some more fine tunning for my setup instead of a FMU. dont want to go OBD1 yet so i have to find something that will work..

more info is always a plus.....thanks again gents

 

dont run an AFC hack those are almost worse then FMU's

for a turbo kit the fuel solution should NOT be a place to cut corners or try and save money.

Do it right or don't boost your car. I understand doing it right and being able to pass smog(I live in california) is expensive and a bitch but it's still cheaper then a new motor.

the AFC will only give you insane amounts of timing if you are using to pull lots of fuel because of way oversized injectors.

you see you can't replace the RRFPR(FMU) with the AFC because the AFC can't tune in boost what you use the AFC for is so that you can run really big injectors and not have such a huge ratio on your RRFPR but that in turn makes you run a shitload of timing which you need yet ANOTHER device to trick the ecu to retard the timing.

once you price it all out it really makes no sense to run a AFC hack unless you already had all these parts around from a N/A build(or back when you were a ricer and got all this stuff and probably didn't need it, BTW everyone was a ricer once so I'm not trying to offend you just explaining out the AFC hack came to be)

so what people did was figure out a way to use all that stuff they already had on their cars to run boost with it, does it work.... kinda how long will it last? throwing a dart at a dart board with a bunch of random times is a better guess then I could give you in all honesty.

just save up and do it right you'll make more power, have a safer, more efficient running engine and you will make more power with less boost so thats less strain on your engine. Logically buy a whole new set of parts to run an AFC makes no sense what so ever.

 

for the three bar, dont cut off your stock map sensor plug. Just disconnect it from the map sensor, splice in the three 3-bar map sensor wires, and depending on what car u have, u wont need to do n e thing with the IACV wiring. once u need to get inspected, just remove the OBD1 chipped ecu and install the stock OBD2 one, put in the stock injectors, unplug the 3-bar map sensor and plug in the stock sensor and possibly throw on a catalytic converter and your done! get tested and pull everything apart again