Hello everybody !

I have a B18C4 engine. I woud like to build a non turbo high rev high compression Honda engine ! For the pistons I woud use an Arias 3330700 ( 85mm Bore, +7.4cc Dish, 13.7 Comp Ratio ). The crank and the rods will be stock.
For valves I woud buy +1mm oversize Crower on the intake and exhaust too.
But I don't know which camshaft will be the best !
Crower stage 3, Crower Stage 3 for race, or Skunk2 Pro 1 or 2 or 3 ! The retainers will be the titanium and dual spring from Crower or Skunk2. What do you think which one is better ?
Thank You !

 

i think you need to do a bit more research.

i would not use stock rods
i would not do oversized valves

you are going to have major clearance issues with oversized valves and most of the cams mentioned.

try the all motor forum

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Casey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think you need to do a bit more research.</TD></TR></TABLE>

More than enough said right there.

What are you goals? Realistic ones? What will the car be used for? Are you concerned with idle?

I totally understand the want to build a wild motor, however without a ton of research, your going to end up spending a bunch of money for nothing only to find out from the machine shop that the parts you just selected and purchased are making contact and will not work.

So start with a realistic goal, then work from there figuring out what will work best for your wallet and the use you plan.

 

Wish my wallet never had anything to do with anything, ever... Grrr...

 

Hello,

I tried the allmotor forum too !
Why dont use stock rods ? If I no right stock rods are the most light.
Why do not use oversized valves ?

The smooth idle is not important !

 

there are rods lighter than stock.

carillo pro a beam and crower ultra lites come to mind. they are stronger as well.

the oversized valves are not needed and will cause more clearance issues than performance gains.

 

sigh


if you're pulling the bottom apart and rebuilding it, then its stupid not to put proper rods in


stock ones are good at what they do, and will even handle the kind of power you're likely to be putting out when the rest of the bottom end is stock

but, if you're replacing the pistons, do the right thing and get some proper rods. you'd be so pissed if you paid for a massive build and one of your rods let go, completely wasting the whole motor


plus, oversized valves are, guess what, bigger!


if you're using high lift cams, naturally, they're being pushed further into the chamber

cams pushing further in, and bigger valves means that there is less clearance between your pistons and the valve face. especially when talking about the massive pistons that you are


although i am intrigued why you're in here asking questions about a B18C4 all motor build.

can i politely ask wtf this has to do with Type-R's ?

 

I feel in a giving mood!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VGergo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the pistons I woud use an Arias 3330700 ( 85mm Bore, +7.4cc Dish, 13.7 Comp Ratio ). </TD></TR></TABLE>

Arias are aftermarket pistons and use a floating pin design. OEM rods use a pressed fit pin design. Modifications can be made to make either work with each other but if you have to spend money on that and hopefully upgraded rod bolts, might as well go aftermarket. If you want to keep OEM rods, use a cast oem piston. There are a lot to choose from.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VGergo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For valves I woud buy +1mm oversize Crower on the intake and exhaust too. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Read this https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1891614 and fully understand why a BIG cam plus oversize valves may not be the best idea.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VGergo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Crower stage 3, Crower Stage 3 for race, or Skunk2 Pro 1 or 2 or 3 ! The retainers will be the titanium and dual spring from Crower or Skunk2. What do you think which one is better ?
Thank You ! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Once you know your static compression, determine your rev range, where you want the meat of the powerband to be, octane, tuning limits, etc. AND THEN choose your cam accordingly. If you don't know anything about those, then the SEARCH function is your new best friend.

 

Now only about the rods. I read that the stock rods are only 310g but the Crower Ultralight series 450g, or I know it wrong ? But If it wont fit right with aftermarket forged piston i had to buy some rods from the I beam series. I found JGE ultralight rods and it is much cheaper than other ( Crower, Carillo, Pauter.. ) but what about the quality of JGE ? Thank You, and I will use the search button and reading

 

You mentioned 85mm bore pistons. Is your block sleeved and bored to accept an 85mm bore?

 

^ Beat me to it.

 

yes it will be !

 

Thats gonna be a pretty penny for the gas needed to run that over there in Europe. I'd go with a lower CR, 11.5:1-12:1. Cunningham rods. RM M22XX-M24X or S2 Pro1-Pro2 for cams.

Just the bottom end, a good IM/TB and header/exhaust will be really nice on track, even with stock cams. IIRC Marshall did a bit over 200whp bith a 2.0 bottom end and stock head. I might be wrong though.

 

But 100octane coud be enough right ?


What do u think about the JGE products ? They have cheap sleeves and I beam connecting rods just I'm worring about the quality and I never read any experience with it..... :-)

 

100 would be enough. I wouldn't go with that high of compression unless I needed the power. You'd be plenty happy running on 93 or whatever you guys have over there.

I don't have experience with JGE products.