i did a multi port swap from dual point.... it keeps throwin the cps code(crank position censor) and i have put 3 brand new destributors on it and i still cant figure why it is still throwin the code....... it only goes to 3200 rpms and hits the limiter. if someone can please help me figure this out i would greatly appreciate it

 

That's code 4 correct?

Check wires b10 and b12 for contiunity across solder, to ground, etc. Check them at the distributor plug too.

Check that the pins are in good shape and making connection. If all of this checks out, try running two new wires into the bay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JustAnotherRex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's code 4 correct?

Check wires b10 and b12 for contiunity across solder, to ground, etc. Check them at the distributor plug too.

Check that the pins are in good shape and making connection. If all of this checks out, try running two new wires into the bay. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I second that.


Make sure you depinned those wires and repinned the news ones in instead of splicing into the factory wires at the plug.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90sedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Make sure you depinned those wires and repinned the news ones in instead of splicing into the factory wires at the plug. </TD></TR></TABLE>
why does this matter?....my wires are spliced and my car runs fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garageEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
why does this matter?....my wires are spliced and my car runs fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Depends on the quality of the splice, if you're talking solder and heatshrink and not just quick-connects you;ll get a decent connection. Definitely not going to be as reliable as de- and re-pinning IMO, but it'll work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wiZCo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Depends on the quality of the splice, if you're talking solder and heatshrink and not just quick-connects you;ll get a decent connection. Definitely not going to be as reliable as de- and re-pinning IMO, but it'll work.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ahh....well thats the only way i do wiring....my head unit is soldered and heatshrinked

 

so my wiring could jus not be getting a good connection .... im just really getting irritated with this car ive been at it for a year because i was missing a bunch of parts... so do i just use the old pins or do i have to get new ones and where can i get them

 

i am having the same issue. just converted my 4dr ef from dpfi to mpfi, then i am using a obd0 to obd1 conversion harness. i'm getting the code 4. i've checked and check the wiring. well i will check b10 and b12

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garageEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
why does this matter?....my wires are spliced and my car runs fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because that was my problem when i did my mpfi swap, and i know how to solder. I guess in some cases, the factory wires are dead, maybe grounded out somewhere, and new ones need to be pinned in there to clear the cps code.

That may not always be the case, but by pinning the new wire in has cleared other people's code 4 as well.

To the OP, i would give that a try, and it might work for you.

 

I fixed my issues with code 4 last night. The problem was the solder connections at b12 and b11 or the orange and white. I cut them and re-soldered. Damn thing started right up, just throwing o2 sensor code. Fixed that one in 5 mins. Code free.

 

did you cut them at the ecu or in they bay???? im gonna try to de-pin the factory wires and extend my new ones and re-pin them hopefully it will work i greatly appreciate the help thatnks alot

 

near the ecu. it's the only place that they were cut. i used some one's document whick said to cut and transfer pins c1 and c2 to empty locations b10 and b12

which really you can just move c1 to b10 and move c2 to b12.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Best Method To Do This:
-Pins B10 and B12 are empty meaning there are no wires going into them as a general rule, however some models have a wire at B12 (if you have one that is one there that is one less wire you will need to move).

-Pins B2 and B11 have wires going into them but they are not used for anything (weird, but trust me on this one).

-Take the pin/wire from B2, depin it (this means pop it out of the plug) and pin it (pop it into plug) into B10's empty spot, how you have a wire at B10.

-Take the pin/wire from B11, depin it and clip it into the B12 spot, now you have a wire at B12.

-Cut the orange C1 wire and white C2 wire "in half" (by cut in half I mean cut the wire making sure to leave enough wire so you can strip and solder them to another wire later). Now when dealing with cutting I will refer to the side of the wire coming from the interior harness as the harness side, and I will refer to the side of the wire coming directly from the ECU's plug (direct ECU connection) as the ECU side (the only plug in question for this step is the ones that go into the ECU).

-At the ECU plug, for C1 and C2 solder and heatshrink wires to them and run them into the engine bay (I did this via the A/C grommets). Mark these wires with a piece of tape saying C1 and C2 on it. Because if you are like me you were using black wire which all looks the same so you need to make sure you know which is which. [QUOTE=dem0nk1d]near the ecu. it's the only place that they were cut. i used some one's document whick said to cut and transfer pins c1 and c2 to empty locations b10 and b12

which really you can just move c1 to b10 and move c2 to b12. </TD></TR></TABLE>


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