I Have A '99 EK Hatch

I Did The D16y8 Intake Mani Swap

I Kept My Y7 Throttle Body Because Of The 3 wire IACV

Once I Put It All Together I Noticed That My Throttle Body Was Getting Hot Because Of The Coolant Lines

So I Bypassed It And Then I Had An Idle Problem....

I Then Did The IACV Fix By Plugging The IACV Holes

I Thought All Was Good Until I Started To Throw A 14

I Reset My ECU But Sure Enough After Some Driving It Always Comes Back

Another Odd Thing Is That ONLY When The CEL Is On, My Car Boggs At The Low RPMs

 

maybe you need a new TPS sensor

 

If It Was A Bad TPS Sensor

Wouldnt I Be Throwing A 7?

 

Was the Y8 manifold from a auto car?

 

The Manifold Was Off A Manual

That Is Why I Had To Use The Y7 Throttle Body

 

Bump

This **** Is Annoying!!!

 

You're not supposed to capitalize each letter... I don't know where that started, but it's hard to read. Better than all caps, but seriously.... cut it out.

 

So you're saying it's a 5-spd manifold that doesn't have the 2-wire IACV attached so you plugged the holes....with what? Have a picture?

Unbypass the coolant bypass for the IACV and make sure the coolant has been bled correctly.

 

Not only is the 2 wire IACV plugged, But the 3 wire IACV is plugged as well

The 2 wire one that came with the manifold got blocked because i couldnt use it

And the 3 wire one got plugged because once i bypassed the coolant lines it threw off my idle badly

Both were plugged by custom aluminum plates and then sealed off with silicone

The reason why i bypassed the throttle body in the 1st place is because i dont need my throttle body to get warmed up nor do i want it to get warmed up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xd69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Both were plugged by custom aluminum plates and then sealed off with silicone</TD></TR></TABLE>

You eliminated your only form of idle control by blocking off the IACV, are getting a code 14 which is for the IACV, and are wondering "why"? C'mon now...

If anything, you could have bypassed the coolant that is fed to it...but don't bypass the IACV itself. If you had a funky idle after bypassing the coolant for it, then you did something wrong...like not re-bleeding the coolant system. Then again, even in non-freezing temps, the IACV can freeze up simply due to physics.

You also shouldn't have to block off the 2-wire IACV because the way it's constructed, when no voltage is applied to it, it's closed off anyway. This is NOT true of the 3-wire IACV though.

 

When bypassing, the coolant lines were bled

Once bypassed, the idle was fine when the car was cold but once it was warm, it would jump around from 1000-1500

Another reason why I blocked off the IACV is because as soon as the manifold got swapped, I was throwing a 45, and once it got blocked off, the 45 stopped

And about the freezing, i highly doubt anything can freeze out here in southern california...

 

A stock Y8 has the IACV hanging off the throttle body just like a Y7...without throwing Code 45's.

Have you played with the idle adjustment screws on the throttle body?

 

Actually yes I did

When I first installed the manifold, i noticed there was a lag in power, so I checked the idle screw and it was pretty much closed all the way. So I opened it up lil by lil until i liked where it idled and I didnt have that lag in power.

But after the 45 was gone I was still idling horribly so that is when i decided to block off my IACV

So you said that the reason why im throwing the CEL is because there is no air whatsoever right?
So how can i trick the IACV so it could stop throwing that CEL?

 

You can't trick the ECU into thinking there's an IACV connected when there's not. When the ECU tells the IACV to open/close, it's also expecting to see a change in engine speed.

While there is a screw for idle adjustment, it's a "last resort" fix. There is also another screw that holds the throttle plate slightly open (to keep it from rounding out the bore on returning closed) called the throttle plate stop screw. Hopefully you didn't mess with that what-so-ever. It's set from the factory and messing with it also effects TPS output.

When I say "last resort", I mean to make sure everything else is in proper working order...like the O2 sensor, valve lash, ignition timing, clean grounding points and all the normal maintenance BS (cap, rotor, plugs, wires, etc...). This also includes having an IACV hooked up properly...coolant lines and all...and re-bled correctly (some people forget to put the heater to full hot while leaving teh fan off).

Code 45 is also generally related to the O2 sensor, but in a case like this, ehh, kind of hard to tell. They don't last forever (75-90k miles) and decrease in life span when an engine runs rich or burns oil/coolant.