Im already to start doing my rebuild this coming week of my b18c1

i was hoping to run as much oem parts as i could as thats what most people recommend,
Whats the cheapest place to get OEM parts, (water/oil pump, gasket kit, piston rings, bearings)??
is there aftermarket parts that surpass oem quality for less money?

also i was going to run arp rod bolts and head studs, cheapest dealer?

i was thinking to run jdm ITR pistons did some research on it still had a question regarding my ecu.
Would i properly be able to break my engine in with the itr piston running my stock ecu? or would it require imidiate tunning?

i was hoping to tune later down the line as i do more stuff to the car.

do you guys think i should i just go with the stock gsr pistons for the trouble?

 

i guess i'll have to wait till the morining for some replies,

either way thanks to all that have helped me so far in my other posts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by climb_on &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was thinking to run jdm ITR pistons ...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you going to bore the engine over and run oversized pistons?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by climb_on &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would i properly be able to break my engine in with the itr piston running my stock ecu? or would it require imidiate tunning?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your stock ecu should be fine during the break in as long as your not in the high rpm's where the fuel may run lean.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by climb_on &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was hoping to tune later down the line as i do more stuff to the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You will need to make sure the a/f ratios aren't too lean on the high end because it will make hot spots on the pistons. So tuning it sooner then later would be a good idea. Vtec may feel good, but knowing there is enough fuel there is a much better idea.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by climb_on &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was hoping to run as much oem parts as i could as thats what most people recommend,
Whats the cheapest place to get OEM parts, (water/oil pump, gasket kit, piston rings, bearings)??
is there aftermarket parts that surpass oem quality for less money?

also i was going to run arp rod bolts and head studs, cheapest dealer?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am curious to the answer to this question myself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fergy016 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are you going to bore the engine over and run oversized pistons?

Your stock ecu should be fine during the break in as long as your not in the high rpm's where the fuel may run lean.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i will be running std size pistons unless cylinders are too out-of-round then in that case i will be boring out for some oversize pistons.

ok so normal driving i will be fine? the break in time should allow me to save enough money for the obd2 to 1 harness and chipped obd1 ecu.

i will still need tuning after that right? or can the match a chip for my raised CR application that will run well enough till i mod more

 

alright anyways i just finished my third rebuild. your stock ecu will be absolutely fine for the break in process. just by all means no matter how tempting it is or how strong the motor feels jump on the throttle hard. go easy on it!!!!! otherwise your gonna wipe a bearings. and third do not buy an itr ecu chip off of ebay it is a general chip that may or may not be set to itr specs you wont know unless you take it to a dyno tuner. so my biggest advice, break in your car nice and easy, save cash, and take it to a dyno tuner when you get the chance. also after the break in just don't keep the motor at extremely high r's and you can wait as long as you need to save up for a good tune on the motor. good luck with everything and hopefully the rebuild lives up to what you have in mind.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by N2O INTEGRA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright anyways i just finished my third rebuild. your stock ecu will be absolutely fine for the break in process. just by all means no matter how tempting it is or how strong the motor feels jump on the throttle hard. go easy on it!!!!! otherwise your gonna wipe a bearings. and third do not buy an itr ecu chip off of ebay it is a general chip that may or may not be set to itr specs you wont know unless you take it to a dyno tuner. so my biggest advice, break in your car nice and easy, save cash, and take it to a dyno tuner when you get the chance. also after the break in just don't keep the motor at extremely high r's and you can wait as long as you need to save up for a good tune on the motor. good luck with everything and hopefully the rebuild lives up to what you have in mind.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks man, very hepful
As far as not jumping on the throttle hard, do you mean for the duration of the proper break in proceudre. or till i get it tuned?

Where have you gotten all of your rebuild parts at? or maybe some one else wants to chime in!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by climb_on &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thanks man, very hepful
As far as not jumping on the throttle hard, do you mean for the duration of the proper break in proceudre. or till i get it tuned?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You shouldn't get on it until your done with the break in and tuned because your not going to have the appropriate a/f mixture for after vtec. The top end of the rpm range is where the engine is most stressed and a/f usually runs lean.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fergy016 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You shouldn't get on it until your done with the break in and tuned because your not going to have the appropriate a/f mixture for after vtec. The top end of the rpm range is where the engine is most stressed and a/f usually runs lean. </TD></TR></TABLE>

good explanation thanks

now to parts, best place to buy original honda parts? i know the dealership but what about best price?

 

im going to look into some nippon itr pistons and some acl bearings( if everything is in specs) to save some cash

also the engine only 97k miles should i need to replace the water or oil pump (will probably replace the water for sure but just asking)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by climb_on &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im going to look into some nippon itr pistons and some acl bearings( if everything is in specs) to save some cash

also the engine only 97k miles should i need to replace the water or oil pump (will probably replace the water for sure but just asking)</TD></TR></TABLE>

ACL bearings are good if you need to replace yours. the water pump whould be replaced between 80-100k. I would change it since the engine is apart and way easier now then later.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fergy016 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ACL bearings are good if you need to replace yours. the water pump whould be replaced between 80-100k. I would change it since the engine is apart and way easier now then later. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ya i wouldnt think about reusing old bearings...so i think as long as im in the green acl are going in!
so i guess old water pump has to go too?
how abou the oil pump, now i see everyone selling itr oil pumps same thing right?

 

up for engine coming out on wed

 

ohh sorry it took me so long to get back. anyways when your breaking it in for about 500 miles be real easy coming on the throttle make sure it takes a couple of seconds to come up to the rpms you shift at. and if its a gsr with itr pistons don't take it over 5.5k-6k. re-using bearings is just like re-using gaskets or condoms it doesn't work. look on ebay acl bearings are like 45 bucks for your application. good luck on the re-build and keep your will power with the break in. hope you can get some great power out of it.

 

ohh and to anyone who is looking arp rod bolts and acl bearings incredibly cheap on ebay. and there the real thing.