I have a 98 civic with a fuilly built y8 turbo....using the stock radiator but i can run it hard messing around on the back roads without it overheating but whenever i get past about 120 and keep going speeding up my cars temp rises like crazy....but when i let off and slow down, the temp slowly drops... i researched some but found nothing relative...fan is workin and it has a new thermostat in it. also, when it does get hot it pushes alot of coolant in the reservoir tank thing but as it cools off it sucks it back up...whats the issue?

 

bump...need this figured out by like yesterday!

 

Stop driving 120 on backroads for a start lol. Driving like that will get you, or even worse others, killed.

 

im not driving 120 on back roads...believe me i know better than that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bOOsted_D16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im not driving 120 on back roads...believe me i know better than that </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bOOsted_D16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 98 civic with a fuilly built y8 turbo....using the stock radiator but i can run it hard messing around on the back roads without it overheating but whenever i get past about 120 and keep going speeding up my cars temp rises like crazy</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Pwned.

Is it sleeved? Is the head ported?

If not then it's not "fully" built.

If it was, you wouldn't be asking this.

Ever considered that the 1000 degree turbo manifold might have something to do with your car overheating?



My guess is that with your "built" y8 that you still have the stock radiator.

 

you need to make sure that you are dropping at least 20 degrees from top radiator hose to bottom radiator hose. and since you said that the thermostat is brand new and the fan works then that only leaves two things

1. the water pump make sure you can look into the radiator and see water flowing after thermostat is open

2. I know you dont want to hear this but also a blown headgasket could be putting exhaust into the radiator and super heating the coolant. they make a tester that has two chambers on it both filled with a liquid chemical and when placed over the top of the radiator the chemical will turn green showing exhaust in cooling system. or if you could get your hands on a pressure tester pressurize cooling system to about 5psi then snap throttle and if it builds more pressure than 5psi it shows that you have a bad head gasket cause on the compression storke it filled the combustion chamber.

hope you find out before its to late.

 

I mean i can run it hard around town but whenever i get on 605( a newly built interstate where im from) and get it up to speed it over heats. And for all the jack asses that jus wanna hate (ek forever guy, 01_CLtypeS) my motor is sleeved and the head is ported. I know what a fuily built motor is. ALTHOUGH i wasnt the one who built it. It was all done to the motor about 4k miles ago. Im going to try the pressure thing and where can i get the chemical thing from? jus the local auto part store? The water pump is working b/c the water does circulate when the fan kicks on(when the thermostat opens)

 

btw thanks for the help gsrhatch2356

 

Its called a blocktester and you should be able to get it at a auto parts store but they may have to order it. I got mine off of a tool truck.

 

BTW the coolant reservior's level should change as the vehicle warms up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bOOsted_D16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I mean i can run it hard around town but whenever i get on 605( a newly built interstate where im from) and get it up to speed it over heats. And for all the jack asses that jus wanna hate (ek forever guy, 01_CLtypeS) my motor is sleeved and the head is ported. I know what a fuily built motor is. ALTHOUGH i wasnt the one who built it. It was all done to the motor about 4k miles ago. Im going to try the pressure thing and where can i get the chemical thing from? jus the local auto part store? The water pump is working b/c the water does circulate when the fan kicks on(when the thermostat opens)</TD></TR></TABLE>

i wasnt being a jack ***, i was just proving a point. you said you didnt drive 120 on the back roads..but you posted that in a previous post. it just didnt make sense to me. any ways you shouldnt be driving 120mph on public roads!

 

so you've never done 120 on a public road?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bOOsted_D16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so you've never done 120 on a public road?</TD></TR></TABLE>

nope i dont plan on it

120's for the track

 

got any pics of this fully built y8, how many psi you running, and whats your dyno look like ?

 

although he is right that nobody should be doing 120 down a public road which I would never do down anything but a highway I am guilty of getting on it and topping it out theres nothing wrong if nobodys around and you get going.

I didnt build my car which I daily drive, just to drive to work and back everyday.

 

gettin it dynoed in a couple of weeks on 18psi. I am currently on a street tune

just a few pics



[IMG]
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g2...d.jpg[/IMG]


and currently

 

Nice

 

Thanks!

 

Dont know if this is relative, but i have heard stories of the block gaurd causing overheating problems such as this. It is rumored that the guard restricts the flow of coolant.

 

oooo beautifull color on the valve cover. as for you overheating problem.... what kind of hp are you makeing on your steet tune? it may be makeing more heat than the stock radiator can get rid of

 

being how it is a street tune and not a dyno i dont know the hp