No more warped flanges... thanks Tony.
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When I was out in Tx a while at at T1... came across a little gadget in depths of the shop... what a great idea... lol.
works like a charm.
works like a charm.
Cool so like 4x4 aluminum box tubing to suck the heat out of whatever you're welding? That's a cheap way to do it and definitely effective, I went the expensive route and use 1'' thick aluminum plates, but there's no better way around it, especially for production!
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i have had no bad experiences. I dont see it 'sucking' any more heat from the weld compared to not having any brace at all though.
We usually bolt it to a junk head but Ive found with things like the Porsche stuff junk heads arent so cheap. Big chunks of aluminum FTW
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DESTROYER »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pfft. i bolt it down to a piece of wood soaked in gasoline</TD></TR></TABLE>
ha
ha
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wade »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have had no bad experiences. I dont see it 'sucking' any more heat from the weld compared to not having any brace at all though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Metal transfers heat WAY more effectively compaired to air. A simple test: put one finger ON your car's hot header and another 1/16" away from it - and it won't be the later that burns first.
But when you're talking mild steel and stainless, they are 51 & 15 W/m vs 373 W/m when it comes to conducting heat, so it has to travel through the flange before the alum sinks the heat.
Metal transfers heat WAY more effectively compaired to air. A simple test: put one finger ON your car's hot header and another 1/16" away from it - and it won't be the later that burns first.
But when you're talking mild steel and stainless, they are 51 & 15 W/m vs 373 W/m when it comes to conducting heat, so it has to travel through the flange before the alum sinks the heat.
I bet if you were to weld caps on both ends of that then drill a small hole in the top you could fill it with water and it would work even better. Someone mentioned that above too
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisbmx68 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I bet if you were to weld caps on both ends of that then drill a small hole in the top you could fill it with water and it would work even better. Someone mentioned that above too </TD></TR></TABLE>
Make sure you dont seal that off....you'd be making a bomb...dumb idea.
Make sure you dont seal that off....you'd be making a bomb...dumb idea.
nice garden hose in, little 1.8in npt barb with a hose out. turn on your garden hose.
maybe you can hook it up inline with a pump and an ice bath.....
how about a liquid nitrogen container.....
maybe you can hook it up inline with a pump and an ice bath.....
how about a liquid nitrogen container.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RTErnie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Make sure you dont seal that off....you'd be making a bomb...dumb idea.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It certainly wouldn't be a bomb if you have an opening to fill it with water. It would just evaporate off as steam as it heated up. But yea you could hook up a pump or a hose or w/e too and it would be more effective. I was just thinking simple.
Make sure you dont seal that off....you'd be making a bomb...dumb idea.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It certainly wouldn't be a bomb if you have an opening to fill it with water. It would just evaporate off as steam as it heated up. But yea you could hook up a pump or a hose or w/e too and it would be more effective. I was just thinking simple.
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