I've been fighting a problem for 3+ months with my swap, have spent thousands of dollars, countless hours and still have not gotten resolution.

if you have your car w/o axles or are changing axles, before you put them in, can you measure for me the distance from the diff seal to the back of the wheel hub (inner surface on hub where the axles sits) on the passenger side, and also from the seal on the intermediate shaft bearing support to the driver's side hub?

If you do this, please do it with the car suspension loaded, like, with jackstands and a jack under each side tire jacking up the suspension right until the body starts to move and the vehicle's weight makes the suspension compressed, or, even better, on a rack lift ; )

thanks SO much to anyone who helps me with this!!!

BTW, my measurements were 19.5" on both sides...


Modified by builthatch at 12:59 AM 8/11/2007

 

up.

 

hey did you get the tranny diff looked at?
i forgot if we chatted about that or not which could be a possible cause to your acceleration shuddering..

 

new lsd trans, same behavior : (

the trans i had was new in the first place : ( : (

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">new lsd trans, same behavior : (

the trans i had was new in the first place : ( : (</TD></TR></TABLE>

aww bummer!

wth is it then!?! so ghey!

are any of your front lower subframe bolts loose?? any bolts conneted to the front LCA's loose??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

aww bummer!

wth is it then!?! so ghey!

are any of your front lower subframe bolts loose?? any bolts conneted to the front LCA's loose??</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha.

nah, we checked them and the bushings. a-ok.

remember, it goes away almost 100% when the car is raised.

i still think it's axles. i think i am stretching the axles a bit for some reason and maxing out the inner CV under load. the distance that the axles cover is supposed to be 18.7-18.9, and i am, sitting still, at 19.5", that doesn't include turning or acceleration/driving.

 

hrm, i wonder if maybe your A arm upper grease filled bushings go wacky when the car is lowered causing the vibration.

Hows the toe-in on the front suspension?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hrm, i wonder if maybe your A arm upper grease filled bushings go wacky when the car is lowered causing the vibration.

Hows the toe-in on the front suspension?</TD></TR></TABLE>

toe is whatever stock is, i believe it's actually @ 0. i just had an alignment done last saturday. when you say grease filled bushings, which ones are you referring to? i thought they were all rubber?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

toe is whatever stock is, i believe it's actually @ 0. i just had an alignment done last saturday. when you say grease filled bushings, which ones are you referring to? i thought they were all rubber?</TD></TR></TABLE>

err the balljoints!
That are on the A-arm and bottom of the knuckle assembly are sealed with grease in them.

 

well..i had old ones in until last friday. i actually had ALL OE, like, OG for 225k miles EXCEPT the uppers which we on older camber arms that i installed maybe 3 years ago.

i replaced all of them with new units. new uppers on new ingalls arms, new lowers, new outers and new inner ends, then got it aligned. i used moog (the best) and they have the dope grease fittings

all that yielded no change to my problem whatsoever!

 

dude its phuqin hopeless then...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude its phuqin hopeless then... </TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly.

i really think that if this axle deal doesn't turn out well after talking to Frank at the driveshaftshop, then im going to remove the swap and go back to a sohc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

exactly.

i really think that if this axle deal doesn't turn out well after talking to Frank at the driveshaftshop, then im going to remove the swap and go back to a sohc.</TD></TR></TABLE>

here's the real noodle baker...
what if your car carries over the same problem after going back to the D!??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

here's the real noodle baker...
what if your car carries over the same problem after going back to the D!?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

well, this is the rationale im using-

i never once had a problem with the d in this department, in this car.

the instant i fired up and drove this dohc the problem started....and hasn't stopped.

also, it has cost me several (SEVERAL) thousand dollars cash to get this swap in and figure out the problem that can't be figured out, so atleast if it DOES do it with the sohc, i'll have cheaper platform to deal with which i know through and through, rather than an expensive one that i don't

 

after talking with Frank at the driveshaftshop, he noticed that the right side gap is about 3/4" out of spec, making the stock axle work at the end or past it's range all of the time. He's going to add .75 to that side and .5 to the other (since he typically makes his race axles .5" longer than stock anyway) and we will see what happens.

 

i'm lost, why is the gap out of spec in the first place? what i mean is, what would cause this to happen?
&lt;just looking to be informed...

 

no idea, honestly.

i've yet to hear of it with an ek, but i've heard of it in EG and of course, EF, needing both shorter and/or longer

an interesting note is that frank at the DSS makes his race axles, not stage 0, but the rest of them, .5" longer than stock. this is because, as the car is lowered, the axle is stretched. at 'normal' ride height, the axle is pretty straight in relation to the hub. when you lower it, the axle pitches up and back a bit from what i see, so it stretches, just like on s2k when they are lowered.

who knows for sure why. my car is just like everyone elses, maybe because it has 230k miles on the chassis? i'm unsure but i hope to god that these axles work.

 

ah gotcha....
i wasn't even thinking about lowering a car causing it to stretch, is your car slammed or something? i've never heard of this before...

 

the best way to illustrate it is...

put your right hand flat & up and down like you are going to karate chop something. take your left hand and make a sideways 'T" with the right hand. that is normal ride height. right hand is the tire, left hand is the axle.

now, while keeping the left wrist stationary and hand flat, bring the tip of the left hand up. that simulates lowering the car. you will see that a gap starts to form as the left hand comes up. well, if an axle nut is keeping that gap tight and the outer cv isn't meant to 'accordian', the inner cv will stretch. if it stretches too much you introduce alot of play and wear in that inner cv. under high load it'll wobble back and forth and you'll feel that in the cabin.

it happens on s2k- http://www.aj-racing.com/catal...d=502

keep in mind i'm just illustrating the theory that we have here for the longer axles. it's obvious that frank knows his **** and i'm at a loss for any other options, so deduction says this will fix it hahaha

 

haha o alright i completely got it now, never even thought that lowering a car could mess it up that bad...
great illustration too btw
i guess your car slammed for it to be affecting you this much?