anyone have anyidea what under the dash is the hot[positive] for the fuel pump?
Fuel pumps not priming and its not getting voltage at the pump connector.

 

I just did a lot of work on the main relay witch feeds you're pump. If main relay is OK check wringing from relay to pump Some cars have a plug Two wires POS NEG

Main Relay

#1 Grn/Blk #3 Blank #5 Blu/Wht #7 Blk
#2 Yel/Blk #4 Blk/Yel #6 Yel/Blk #8 Yel/Wht

#1 Grn/Blk goes to ecu two wries, inside the relay ground side of fuel pump relay coil
#2 Yel/Blk goes to fuel pump, inside the relay component(pump) side of fuel pump relay Switch
#3 Blank
#4 Blk/Yel Hot in run or start, inside the relay Battery side of ECU injector relay coil,
#5 Blu/Wht Hot in start, inside the realy Battery side of fuel pump coil
#6 Yel/Blk goes to ECU and Injector resistors, inside the relay component (ecu/inj ) side of ecu/inj. Relay switch
#7 Blk goes to Ground, inside the relay ground side of ecu/inj coil
#8 Yel/Wht Hot all the time, inside the relay Battery side of ecu/inj relay switch
Inside the relay there is a wire that goes from #4 to Battery side of fuel pump relay switch

So all of this and a few hours of deep thought to come up with a way to test the relay
You will need a few jumpers and a power source (battery) and a meeter volt/ohm
1 connect a POS lead to #4 and ground to #7 connect ohm meter to #8 and #6 the meter should get a ohm reading.
I did not wright the reading down you should hear the relay click this is the ecu.inj relay
2 connect POS lead to #5 and ground to #1 connect ohm meter to #4 and #2 the meter should get a ohm reading.
I dent wright it down you should hear the relay click this is the fuel pump relay
3 if you're fuel pump does not run for a short time then go off when you turn the key to on.
There is a wire inside the relay that goes from #6 to #5 with a rester in it you can put you're meter ohm on
#6 to #1 and get a reading
4 If you want you can do an all ohm check #4 to #7 OHM reading across the coil
5 If you want you can do an all ohm check #5 to #1 OHM reading across the coil
6 If you want you can do an all ohm check #6 to #1 ohm reading.
This is the wire that lets the fuel pump run for about 2 sec. when the key is turned to the on pis.
You should get an ohm reading

 

Could the Ecu have something to do with the pump not running?
I found some hacked up wires at the harness and makes me wonder if this could be the cause.

 

Looks professional

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by herecomesboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks professional </TD></TR></TABLE>
shoulda seen the engine bay harness...
BUMP

 

Anyone? Im thinking there could have been a kill switch wired up and deleting it opened the circuit.
just need to kno what/where to look

 

check your fuses also, buddy had same problem and it was just the ignition fuse under the dash that kept blowing because a bare wire kept hitting something and shorting it out...

 

would the car crank over w/o ignition fuse?

 

not a fuse, no voltage at fuel pump connector.
connector and new pump worked...

 

no injectors firing, no spark, and no fuel pump? what could cause these three symptoms?

 

2 do, pump & Inj. go though the main relay not spark


sorry i have not be on for a few days what year mod. is your car??
so i can look at a wring diagram
is power getting to all the right places on the main relay??
yes the fuel pump relay coil grounds through the ecu
1 Grn/Blk goes to ecu two wries, inside the relay ground side of fuel pump relay coil
But it all is not working I would guess a FUSS or bad wire with you wring HAVE fun finding it

I have a KILL switch so yes it acts like a bad wire

IMG]http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m45/84crx/DSCN2321.jpg[/IMG]




Modified by wentcrazycrx at 10:22 AM 8/11/2007


Modified by wentcrazycrx at 1:33 PM 8/11/2007

 

Its a 99 dc4. I have been outta town so I wasnt able to get back to you right away.

If you have any other ideas or areas for me to check let me kno.
thanks

 

are

you there you're on line.
Is everything RIGHT on the main relay??? do you have power at the wright places?

Was the car running?? or did you just get it this WAY??

You're ECU mess ???? I don't have a wringing dig, for a 99 if you need to go to a liberty check out the book and copy the dig,


Modified by wentcrazycrx at 12:16 PM 8/15/2007


Modified by wentcrazycrx at 12:18 PM 8/15/2007

 

put a relay from your battery to your fuel pump with the fuel level sensor as the trigger to turn it on... it will work

 

what will work?
I get no injector pulse either?
and no spark, I have hooked a jumper to pump already.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2062737

 

BUMP

the INJ. get power though the main relay and get grounded by the ECU to firer

I believe on 92 and newer they don't have a injector resistors box they have plugs like this the wire that leaves the main relay #6 Yel/Blk goes to this plug then to all INJ. then to the ECU
There should be one hot wire at the dis. i think blk/yel its hot from the key switch and all the rest go to the ECU

SO the ECU mass could be all of your Problem


IMG]http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m45/84crx/DSCN2333.jpg[/IMG]

 

thats how I wired up the resistor Box, I believe this is correct.

These are the pinouts that showed continuity with the injector clips.


here is the box and the first pic will show what wires I hooked to what...

Let me kno what I could look for.

 

let me back up
1 This is a 1999 car ??
2 1999 b1.8 ??
3 OBD1 ??pr4 ecu ??
4 Do you have power at the wright places on the main relay??
5 On the distributor acura tends to use BLK/YEL wire , it the hot wire from the key to the distributer in run and start this puts power to the coil in the DIS. the rest of the wires go to the ECU to tell it when to do it thing----spark
6 yes it could crank that part of your wiring is OK not part of the other circuits

I did not think 1992 and newer had a rester box????

I''ll be back on later today

 

Yes this is a 1999, I am running Obd1 style 1000cc injectors and they require resistors inline otherwise the ecu can self destruct.

-the motor is a built b18a, with a Newly built b16a head.

-I have converted the vehicle to OBD1 and am running a neptune based p75, I also have a pr4 that I kno works perfectly b/c this car was running N/a prior to head installation.

I am getting it to turn over, and starter circuit is fine.
I need to Know if that distributor block could cause the same conditions as I am experiencing.

 

Ok that helps
Are you getting power to all the wright places on the main relay
it look like you wried the INJ. RES. right

TRY to HAVE FUN

 

I have swapped the main relay with my gs-rs main relay and it does same thing, the no start relay also works fine in the GSr

 

Swapping parts only checks that part not any thing els
Is power getting to all the right places on the main relay and the disturber

I will try to go find a book on a 99 and look at the DIG,
distributor block = ??
from the main relay and the dis, the hot wires go back to the cabin fuss block then to the KEY switch

MY thought when testing if you start with know power then jump to the relay if you have power there its good to that point if no power your problem is between those points

Did you keep you old disturber or change it??

 

I will check for continuity at the distributor block/fuse block

Yes Im using non vtec Distributor that I had modified to fit on the vtec head.
But I had also tried a 98 Gsr dizzy which had the same results.