LS Block
LS Cylinder Head
FR Pro Street Manifold

The flange on our Pro Street manifold is not seating flush with the cylinder head. It's dipping below the head and interfering with the block.

The fix seem simple: machine/grind the seat of the flange so that it clears the block.

My question: has anyone else had this problem?

Pictures always help:

 

never heard of a problem like that....bump for answers

 

 

Looks like a bad head flange, the bolt holes look a bit higher.

 

An easy fix just shave the bottom of the flange and bing.. you can bolt her up!

 

Those are not cheap manifolds. How do the ports line up?
Maybe you should contact Full-Race.

 

Yes the ports line up perfectly. The flange seems a little too beefy.

Contacted Full-Race, spoke to Henry. Full-Race is going to fix it, no charge.

 

thats good they are fixing it, i had a thread like this before, i thought it was hitting the block like that, but wiggled it just a little bit, he hee, and it lined up. good that they are fixing it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Armaan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Contacted Full-Race, spoke to Henry. Full-Race is going to fix it, no charge. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i didnt expect anything less....that's why they have a great reputation

 

That is a common problem seriously.

You just have to shave the block flat.

It is because the flange for the full race mani is so large.

I had to do this to both of my blocks that I used a FR mani on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That is a common problem seriously.

You just have to shave the block flat.

It is because the flange for the full race mani is so large.

I had to do this to both of my blocks that I used a FR mani on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had to shave mine as well. id rather shave the little tabs on the block than shave/cut the flange and weaken it anyway.

 

What did you guys use to shave the block?

 

Yes this is normal. I had to shave mine as well when I got it. Just use a die grinder and it will work. Its not worth mailine it back and waiting, unless you are very patient. Just fix it yourself. Those mani's are great. I loved mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperTeg95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes this is normal. I had to shave mine as well when I got it. Just use a die grinder and it will work. Its not worth mailine it back and waiting, unless you are very patient. Just fix it yourself. Those mani's are great. I loved mine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Die grinder works great. If you modify the flange it will may void your lifetime warranty. So grind the block as others have recommended.

 

Yes not the flange but grind the block.

 

I wouldn't shave my block. Not that its going to affect the performance but you shouldn't have to shave your block. You paid x amount for this manifold and you should expect near perfect fitment. Full-Race will fix the problem garunteed. Maybe it needs to be brought to thier attention from a few people so that this can be avoided in the future. If several people are saying that they had this problem I think it would be best for Full-Race to address the issue. The flange abviously looks cut funky. You can see the gasket is straight across but the manifold is thicker on one side. If your patient enough just send it back and have them fix it. If you don't want to wait then go ahead and just shave the block. Shaving the manifold yourself may void the warranty but sending it to them won't. I personally wouldn't want to shave my block. Your paying big money for a great product so why not let them fix it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SD_Lurker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't shave my block. Not that its going to affect the performance but you shouldn't have to shave your block. You paid x amount for this manifold and you should expect near perfect fitment. Full-Race will fix the problem garunteed. Maybe it needs to be brought to thier attention from a few people so that this can be avoided in the future. If several people are saying that they had this problem I think it would be best for Full-Race to address the issue. The flange abviously looks cut funky. You can see the gasket is straight across but the manifold is thicker on one side. If your patient enough just send it back and have them fix it. If you don't want to wait then go ahead and just shave the block. Shaving the manifold yourself may void the warranty but sending it to them won't. I personally wouldn't want to shave my block. Your paying big money for a great product so why not let them fix it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I would agree if it was something like the holes not lining up correctly, but Im pretty sure this is a "known" issue, much like some of their manifold designs of their "kits" creep. To their credit I have never heard of them not fixing a problem that was brought up to them. But this particular issue will probably just be more of a pain in the *** to have them fix it than to just make a slight adjustment yourself.

 

that is one of our older manifolds. A couple years ago, we had some head flanges made where the head flanges were too tall. This does not cause any issues on a VTEC engine, only an LS engine becuase the head is narrower, so the exhaust manifold mounts above the block.

send it back, we'll take care of it. thanks armaan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full-Race Geoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that is one of our older manifolds. A couple years ago, we had some head flanges made where the head flanges were too tall. This does not cause any issues on a VTEC engine, only an LS engine becuase the head is narrower, so the exhaust manifold mounts above the block.

send it back, we'll take care of it. thanks armaan</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

When putting the manifold on, after sliding a bit on the studs..pull the manifold on an angle back at you, and lift up to place the flange on the resting locations on the head, then while applying pressure at that point to ensure no movement, push the flange flush with the head.

Don't know if that's able to visualized through my description...but that's how I solved it on my end with my old manifold.

 

Thanks Geoff. Spoke to Henry, he issued me the RMA number to send back.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Armaan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks Geoff. Spoke to Henry, he issued me the RMA number to send back. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Full-Race are stand up guys..I just ordered my traction bars from them.

If I ever go more in depth in my turbo setup, Ill definitely be getting a manifold or something from them