Kill switch using alternator and battery
Could anyone tell me which wire coming off of my alternator will kill my engine if I introduce the kill switch into the circuit.
these are the wires coming out of the alternator the car is a 93civic Si with a B16a
ECM PIN A16---------white-yellow
ECMPIN D9-----------blue
JUNCTION CONN C415--black-yellow
DASH F/B------------white-blue
I think its the thrid one.
these are the wires coming out of the alternator the car is a 93civic Si with a B16a
ECM PIN A16---------white-yellow
ECMPIN D9-----------blue
JUNCTION CONN C415--black-yellow
DASH F/B------------white-blue
I think its the thrid one.
cut into the big white one coming into the alternator, it is the one that gets bolted onto the alternator, not a clip in one.
that is really the only way to cut the alternator power.
hope that is clear enough
that is really the only way to cut the alternator power.
hope that is clear enough
yeah I tried that it does not work using the main electrical feed wire from the alternator, on my car. You are using the big wire running between the under hood fuse box and the alternator right?
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I use it to cut the main +12V line between the underhood fuse box the battery. I didn't modify any wiring going to or coming from the alternator.
The switch cuts +12V from the battery, and the switch also cuts power to the coil, so the engine dies. If you don't cut power to the coil, the engine will still run since the alternator will provide the +12V, as you know.
The switch cuts +12V from the battery, and the switch also cuts power to the coil, so the engine dies. If you don't cut power to the coil, the engine will still run since the alternator will provide the +12V, as you know.
Here is what I did and it works for my Integra: Switch the battery negative to ground. This kills the motor since the alternator's positive has no ground to flow to (no need to worry about switching the alternator).
If you have already killed the battery positive: Use the secondary terminals on the switch to kill the alternator field (the black/yellow wire). Without the field energized, a spinning alternator creates no current.
BTW, switching the big white wire niterida suggested should have worked (as long as the battery positive was switched too). Since it didn't, there may be something unusual about your system that is making this task difficult.
If you have already killed the battery positive: Use the secondary terminals on the switch to kill the alternator field (the black/yellow wire). Without the field energized, a spinning alternator creates no current.
BTW, switching the big white wire niterida suggested should have worked (as long as the battery positive was switched too). Since it didn't, there may be something unusual about your system that is making this task difficult.
I can't support switching the battery negative. Yes it will kill the engine, but in a wreck where you want to use the kill switch you will still have a bunch of live wires (possibly damaged) all looking for a ground. If one wire is pinched by some metal - ZAP. Your current flows striaght to that point with no resistance, and your wire jumps to several hundred degrees and catches fire.
What i did to wire my kill switch is where the main battery feed comes into the fuse block i cut and extended the main in wire to the switch and the from the switch back to the fuse block. The fuse block in the engine bay.
See in Calgary
See in Calgary
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mc-integra111 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW, switching the big white wire niterida suggested should have worked (as long as the battery positive was switched too). Since it didn't, there may be something unusual about your system that is making this task difficult.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The underhood fuse box has two white wires going into it that are approx. 10 gauge, right? One is a feed from the alternator. The other is a 'loop' from the battery positive. Both of those, along with the main battery positive, need to be interrupted by the kill switch. If you don't cut both of the white wires, you are 'powering' the car.
On a switch with 4 terminals -
use 2 large terminals to interrupt the battery positive
use 2 small terminals to interrupt the alternator output
(if you want to retain 2 wires going into underhood fuse box - on white wire that is not the alternator output, leave one end attached to underhood fuse box. Attach other end to large terminal that is energized only when switch is turned on.)
When it is wired correctly, you will only have one large terminal energized with switch 'off'. All four will be energized when the switch is 'on'.
HTH
BTW, switching the big white wire niterida suggested should have worked (as long as the battery positive was switched too). Since it didn't, there may be something unusual about your system that is making this task difficult.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The underhood fuse box has two white wires going into it that are approx. 10 gauge, right? One is a feed from the alternator. The other is a 'loop' from the battery positive. Both of those, along with the main battery positive, need to be interrupted by the kill switch. If you don't cut both of the white wires, you are 'powering' the car.
On a switch with 4 terminals -
use 2 large terminals to interrupt the battery positive
use 2 small terminals to interrupt the alternator output
(if you want to retain 2 wires going into underhood fuse box - on white wire that is not the alternator output, leave one end attached to underhood fuse box. Attach other end to large terminal that is energized only when switch is turned on.)
When it is wired correctly, you will only have one large terminal energized with switch 'off'. All four will be energized when the switch is 'on'.
HTH
Ok my switch only has two terminals it is wired between the main the 12v battrey feed and the fuse box I have the wire going to the fuse box and the wire going to the starter connected to the switch (+ the battery source). But it does not kill the engine. Can I connect the black and yellow wire from the alternator to the SAME terminals? will this work. I can't undrstand why it is not killing the engine since I am killing the power to the underhood fusebox which should kill the power to the coil and the fuel pump.
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