I'm in the process of rebuilding my motor, and I've gotten most everything squared away with one exception...I purchased a fully built H22a1 block (sleeved, pistons, rods) from a H-T member and it turns out the #4 cyclinder was scarred. I tore the block bare and honed the cylinder out. Luckily, I was able to get all of it out with the exception of 4 TINY knicks.

I'm posting this thread for any of you who have boring/honing experience and know if a professional shop with higher grade equipment would be able to hone these marks out. When I say TINY, I mean .001" if that. I really would hate to have to bore it out to fit a larger piston because then I would need to purchase all new ones for roughly 500-600 bucks plus machining fees on top of that, and the ones in this motor are brand new JE 9.0:1 pistons. I'm hoping a good micropolish could get this out, but I'm just not sure. I've already measured the cylinder diameter and test-fitted the piston and piston rings after the hone and everything is perfect. I'm wondering if .001" really means boring it out. Any feedback would be helpful. Here's a pic of the cylinder before I honed it to give you an idea of what I was facing:

 

im having a hard time believing you honed that cylinder yourself and got most of that out and you measured piston to wall and ring gap and its still perfect. i would have a machine shop look it over to be certain.


btw, looks like someone ran the ring gaps too tight to begin w/ you may want to consider regapping all of them looser.

 

Yeah, the ring gap was definitely off and will need to be reordered, you're right about that. My dad is a mechanic and has been rebuilding engines for about 30 or so years. He did the honing, and we triple checked all our measurements. After the hone, the only differences in measurement was in the ten-thousandths (.0001) area. Most of the markings you see in the photo were very superficial (luckily) and there were only about 4 "deep" cuts in the wall. Obviously, we still need to have it micropolished by a shop, but the remaining marks can just barely get caught by fingernail.

 

i wouldnt worry about the rest of the marks if your piston to wall clearence is where it should be at this point. and i wouldnt do any polishing on the cylinder walls, it will mess up the hone.

 

I really hope this is the case. I'm going to let the machine shop that's doing my headwork take a look at it soon to see what they think, but I really hope you're right. The Lude's been in the driveway since February and the supercharger is just waiting to be plucked

 

i'd give this a read

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jago &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'd give this a read
</TD></TR></TABLE>

why would he want to read that?????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Missing Gears &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why would he want to read that?????</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah thats for a stock motor....i would say if it is fi and you want it last, then don't settle for anything less than perfect...get every scratch out then determine if the piston to wall is too loose.

its basically a use based decision...yes you can get away with it, but how much power do you want to get from it and is it a track only car???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gogunkergorilla &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah thats for a stock motor....i would say if it is fi and you want it last, then don't settle for anything less than perfect...get every scratch out then determine if the piston to wall is too loose.

its basically a use based decision...yes you can get away with it, but how much power do you want to get from it and is it a track only car???</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats for FRM walls, he has Iron walls with forged pistons...big difference.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats for FRM walls, he has Iron walls with forged pistons...big difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what??? i meant that page from the service manual is for a stock motor...(aka, frm sleeves and cast pistons.)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gogunkergorilla &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

<U>yeah thats for a stock motor</U>....i would say if it is fi and you want it last, then don't settle for anything less than perfect...get every scratch out then determine if the piston to wall is too loose.

its basically a use based decision...yes you can get away with it, but how much power do you want to get from it and is it a track only car???</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

o overlooked that

 

he will be fine to run it the way it is.