I had a shop remove a stud earlier, but when I was putting the kit back together another stud snapped in half. (I should have had the shop remove all 5 and start fresh. Lesson learned) Anyhoo...I have a drill press here at my shop and was open to ideas about getting this done.

The shop I took the turbo before is looking for someone to fill the position of the guy who took the old stud out since he quit a few weeks ago.

I need to get the broken stud out and replace 2 other studs before putting the kit back together and selling it.

Anyone have ideas? Thanks.

 

Drill it, then use an easy out.

I had to do this on three broken valve cover bolts, two came out super easy, but the third was a bitch.

Another option is drill the hole larger, re-tap and use the next size bolt.

I worry that if they snapped, they are probaby in there TIGHT and might not come out with the easy out....

 

I am certainly cautious about this. The studs have been in there for +50K miles as far as I know. That could be another reason they are in there good. I have certainly given it some heat while tracking the car as well. I'll just spray some PB Blaster on them and drill slowly. I'd rather not drill the hole larger since the studs are easy to find. They are the manifold studs that are M8x1.25

 

options

1. drill and ease out the bolt

2. if that dosent work, get a helicoil kit and drill hole to recommended size and put in helicoil then you can still use the m8x1.25's

remember when drilling different coated bits like different speeds. cant remember exactly which bits i have but they are better than those cheap *** high speed steel bits and they cut awesome at low speeds.

start at slow speed drill then increase speed till it starts cutting and stop there spinin the **** out of the bit does nothing but over heat the tip and dull the drill bit.

 

Matco cobalt drill bits.

Helicoil PN# 5546-8

 

you will may be surprised to see that a left hand bit may actually walk that bolt right out.

if it is the correct bolt, it shouldnt be bottomed out in the threads. i had a kit on a sentra se-r that broke 3 of them on the chra clamps. all of them walked out with a left hand bit.

and no i am not kidding about the left hand bits. not like a left handed screwdriver.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you will may be surprised to see that a left hand bit may actually walk that bolt right out.

if it is the correct bolt, it shouldnt be bottomed out in the threads. i had a kit on a sentra se-r that broke 3 of them on the chra clamps. all of them walked out with a left hand bit.

and no i am not kidding about the left hand bits. not like a left handed screwdriver.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Indeed!use a left turning tap.And tap in the middle of the bolt. You should be able to get the boltout easily. Use some WD40;-)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you will may be surprised to see that a left hand bit may actually walk that bolt right out.

if it is the correct bolt, it shouldnt be bottomed out in the threads. i had a kit on a sentra se-r that broke 3 of them on the chra clamps. all of them walked out with a left hand bit.

and no i am not kidding about the left hand bits. not like a left handed screwdriver.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They work great, also use a center punch to start you holes, makes the drill walk alot less

 

Thanks for your help guys. I'll be sure to look at these products and order them soon. Luckily my drill press has variable speeds.

 

The only extractors ill use.
Heat the housing drill and extract