Replacing Distributor?
So my dizzy died on my DA last week, and my new one should be in today. Is it something I can replace myself?
I've heard mixed responses, some people saying, just unbolt the old and bolt on the new, and others are saying that I need a timing light and I need to do all this **** with my timing which I have no idea how to do.
So yeah, I know a little bit about the engine bay, this will probably be the biggest thing i've done in it (assuming I can do it myself).
Anyone have any experence?
I've heard mixed responses, some people saying, just unbolt the old and bolt on the new, and others are saying that I need a timing light and I need to do all this **** with my timing which I have no idea how to do.
So yeah, I know a little bit about the engine bay, this will probably be the biggest thing i've done in it (assuming I can do it myself).
Anyone have any experence?
u can do it yourself. and put it back the way it cam eoff. for the timing lights , its used so u can set your dizzy in the right position for timing.if u dont have a timing light u can eye ball it. alil retarded or advance won't hurt it. if u retard it to much itll idle bad and advance alot itll feel like u have a lil more kick. try to center it . or match how the old one came off. if u really worried then just install it and drive it somewhere and set your timing
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by myfirstdc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> if u really worried then just install it and drive it somewhere and set your timing</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good idea.
So its as simple as unbolting and bolting the new one on? Cool.
Good idea.
So its as simple as unbolting and bolting the new one on? Cool.
yep, just use a sharpie on the top bolt and mounting point and mark it from the bolt onto the mount. Then unbolt, 3 12mm's. Place a rag in the hole or under to catch any oil. Take out the new dizzy, transfer cap and wires. Just leave the wires right on the cap and unscrew the 3 8mm's. Also, make sure the new dist. has that little back o ring where it mates up with the cam or you'll leak oil. If no transfer old one.
Tighten it all up and turn the key
oh and keep the old dist. cause you didn't diag. why it went up so nine times out of 10 your coil shorted to the case and you just needed a new coil. Or your ignitor went up. So keep it cause it's good to have a spare. Both of those parts depending on where you got them are $120 to $150 maybe.
Tighten it all up and turn the key
oh and keep the old dist. cause you didn't diag. why it went up so nine times out of 10 your coil shorted to the case and you just needed a new coil. Or your ignitor went up. So keep it cause it's good to have a spare. Both of those parts depending on where you got them are $120 to $150 maybe.
yeah I keep EVERYTHING I replace.
I have all my old stock parts and everything just in case.
When you said:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by agoldenau »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just use a sharpie on the top bolt and mounting point and mark it from the bolt onto the mount.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you mean like mark the actual bolt and the part where it screws into?
I have all my old stock parts and everything just in case.
When you said:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by agoldenau »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just use a sharpie on the top bolt and mounting point and mark it from the bolt onto the mount.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you mean like mark the actual bolt and the part where it screws into?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Morasso »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah I keep EVERYTHING I replace.
Do you mean like mark the actual bolt and the part where it screws into?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, mark from the actual 12mm bolt, the housing and the mounting point.
Now I didn't put it together but your using an entire new housing. So the reference mark will only serve you to use it to eye up where to line up the new housing at. But as stated it's fairly easy, you'll get it.
Another idea is if you have a picture phone, take a before picture up close to give yourself another reference.
Do you mean like mark the actual bolt and the part where it screws into?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, mark from the actual 12mm bolt, the housing and the mounting point.
Now I didn't put it together but your using an entire new housing. So the reference mark will only serve you to use it to eye up where to line up the new housing at. But as stated it's fairly easy, you'll get it.
Another idea is if you have a picture phone, take a before picture up close to give yourself another reference.
Hey guys I need some help again.
So I got the new (used) dizzy for my teg today. Plugged it in, tried to fire it up, was barely getting power but cranking.
So I had my brother jump me up, was cranking strong but never turned over.
When I took my brothers cables off my car and tried to crank it, it sounded weak again. Is it possible that my battery is just fucked? My windows and all that still work...
EDIT: I just tried cranking it a bit more and it cranked a few times and then just ran out of juice. Its like the battery is getting drained REALLY fast.
Modified by Morasso at 12:34 PM 7/25/2007
So I got the new (used) dizzy for my teg today. Plugged it in, tried to fire it up, was barely getting power but cranking.
So I had my brother jump me up, was cranking strong but never turned over.
When I took my brothers cables off my car and tried to crank it, it sounded weak again. Is it possible that my battery is just fucked? My windows and all that still work...
EDIT: I just tried cranking it a bit more and it cranked a few times and then just ran out of juice. Its like the battery is getting drained REALLY fast.
Modified by Morasso at 12:34 PM 7/25/2007
check all of your grounds use some sand paper and clean the one on you valve cover the one from your block and the one that runs to you thermostat housing.
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