ok guys i need help with my alarm install..details: this is the first time installing an alarm for me. ive installed subs, decks, amps, other electrical but never an alarm. i have a friend who somewhat know what he is doing so i would just like to clarify.

python 902 two way pager install
99 Integra LS - no factory alarm, just the anti theft for the radio i believe. just got the car.

so i read the instruction manual - for the primary harness...basically very basic..only question is which wire to tap into for the door trigger (#6, #8 wires) it says one (+, -), and what is the ground when armed output?

for the auxliliary harness it seems like i'm only going to use one of the wires...it has 6 different channels, and i'm not getting any window, or any other accesories. no retain accessory, or horn honk, or factory disarm. is the only one i use for the hood pin on that harness?

and the most confusing part is the power door locks...which wires do i need to connect to?its a 7 wire harness but i can use the stock relay to control it. i have ground control relays right? and those wires i can get to below the hood release handle? its a black/white wire, and black red wire?

starter immobilizer....should i use NC or NO? does it make a difference? where is the common wire that i connect to the ignition switch?

i know this seems to be a lot of questions but i just want to make before i start cutting anything...if u guys dont mind helping tht would be great.

 

Alarms arent too bad. Do make sure you have a multimeter on hand. It is always a wise practice to check your wiring before attaching T-Taps (or soldering).

The door trigger is:

"Light green/red (-neg) drivers kick panel
In the larger of two attached gray plugs in the lower kick near the firewall. If equipped with cruise control, the plugs are behind the module. To access, remove the lower bolt on the bracket holding the module and pull it up out of the way. The lock wires test only with the passenger lock and unlock switch.

Looks like 14 awg wire but mostly insulation."

You would attach the Green wire, in the primary harness, to the above wire. Of course, test it. It will show 12v when the doors are closed, and zero when open.

In your particular case, you will not use the aux harness. The hood pin is a yellow/red wire in the drivers kickpanel. This wire will attach to the Blue wire, in the primary harness. It is also advised to install your own hoodpin.

The door lock wires are indeed, Black/White & Black/red. They are located near the firewall, behind the drivers kick. Using the plug you speak of, ground the Purple and Purple/Black (they should already be attached to each other) and send the Green/Black to Black/White (neg lock) and the Blue/Black to the Black/Red (neg unlock).

The starter wire is Black/White, and its of a 10/12 gauge size. There will be black shrinkwrap on the wire (along with the ign/acc/batt) that will need to be cut away. Black/Yellow is the ign.

We are here to help .

Enjoy.

 

HighlineCA: Welcome to the forum, and nice post. 99 Integras have OEM hood pins? Just goes to show you that post count and a recent sign up date don't necessarily make you a noob.

supracrx: Have a look at the site in my sig. Though the car featured in the site is a 93, pics/locations are very similar to the later Integra (and there's a wire color chart specific to the 94+ Integra).

 

man you did not know mr. hatch? The factory hood pin on the 94 and up teg are the shyts They don't even set the factory alarm off when theives pop your hood. I love to use them all the time.


Op please read suspended hatch write up before you go any futher. Please take his advice and follow them.

 

tahnks....it seems like i dont' need the +postive door trigger? so i can depin that wire also?

so aux im using the hoodpin and all other wires i can depin?

for the starter kill, i just cut one wire going to ignition and hook up to one off the alarm. the other goes to the starter and just cut that and wire it to other wire. do i just follow the first diagram in the instruction manual?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by supracrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tahnks....it seems like i dont' need the +postive door trigger? so i can depin that wire also?

so aux im using the hoodpin and all other wires i can depin?

for the starter kill, i just cut one wire going to ignition and hook up to one off the alarm. the other goes to the starter and just cut that and wire it to other wire. do i just follow the first diagram in the instruction manual?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes you can de-pin the purple wire. Its not needed on your car. I don't bother with that starter kill. I use the neg output while armed wire to control a relay to kill the main relay on the car. Then I relocate the main relay that in the car to a safe section were it can not be gotten to. Starter kill sucks on a 5 speed when all a theif is going to do is push start it.

 

I wouldnt de-pin any wires. Tape/cap them off so if you ever need the alarm for another car.

On the main harness, you will use: Red, Black, Green, Blue, Brown, and White. All others can be tapped/zip tied away.

As for the starter kill: You will use the Green/White, and Green/Black (with these wires, it is setup for Normally Closed, (Also these wires are on a 3 pin plug) meaning the circuit will be closed at rest, and open when activated.). It does not matter which goes to which side of the starter wire. You will need to cut the starter wire (Black/White.. 10/12 gauge wire).

It is true what Supra said. But... you never want to cut an ignition wire because if your connections ever fail, the car will shut off! Imagine blastin down the highway at 100, and the car cuts out. That would be a good night, turned bad. Although I know many who risk it... But there is one gain of igntion kill: wont be easily stolen without a tow.

Suspendedhatch - Thank you. As wrx-killer stated, they are there and work just fine. Sometimes though, they are worn out and may need to be replaced. Due to the cost of the OEM piece (or unless you have the OEM security) you can ditch it for a cheap aftermarket one ($5 max @ any car audio shop).

 

thanks guys for the help. seems pretty easy. just need a day off so i can work on it. i want to take my time on it and make it a clean install. i started taping off the wires i don't need already. just few more questions.

channel 2 output- which is for trunk release. i just hook that up to the green/black wire located in the door sill? that will unlock my trunk when i use my alarm?

the blue wire for instant trigger i can hook up to the trunk open warning light? the green wire on the door sill? that will make my alarm go off when trunk gets opened?

domelight supervision i just hook up to the door trigger? and selectable light flash goes to parking light?

so for starter wire i just cut the black/white wire going to main relay. connect one of the green/white wire to one end of cut wire, and other green wire to other end? thats all? thanks guys.

o yea btw i'll be using t-tap connectors for a lot of the connections is that the proper way

 

The trunk release is a Blue wire, at the switch. Unfortunately, you need to unlock the doors before it works.

Yes, the Blue wire is a multiplexed wire, and can have multiple connections. The trunk pin is a Green, in a 12 pin, Blue plug in the top center of the fusebox. Yes the alarm will trigger if this zone opens. Both your hood, and trunk pin go to the Blue.

For domelight sup, you need to ground one of the Black/White, in the main harness. And tie the other to your door trigger (Green, in the main harness).

Yes, that is correct for the starter wire.

T-Taps are fine. Although its much like the chicken/egg question. Most still prefer soldering. Both work fine (given its done correctly).

 

so in general.. a two way pager w/o remote start is the same install as a regular alarm? why do shops charge me for this installiions then?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by supracrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">o yea btw i'll be using t-tap connectors for a lot of the connections is that the proper way</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hell no. T-taps cause intermittent connections due to the vibration in the vehicle which in turn lead to premature failure (or weird problems that are impossible to diagnose) of the alarm which is extremely common. DEI alarms are high quality and should last as long as any other electronics in the vehicle.

Soldering is not difficult, expensive, or time consuming. Butt connectors are acceptable.

De-pin the wires and keep them in the box. If you ever want to sell the alarm (unlikely), you can easily re-pin them to the harness.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by supracrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so in general.. a two way pager w/o remote start is the same install as a regular alarm? why do shops charge me for this installiions then?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are paying extra for the 2-way feature.

 

Yes, depin, the leads can always be repined if you need them, the last thing you need is any extra unused leads under your dash.

We charge extra, [.5 hr] for two-way alarms because of the ant. that needs to be installed, that goes for any alarm that has an ant, that needs to be installed and is not just a wire coming out of the main unit.

As mentioned, do not use T-taps, or any kind of "quick connect" solder all your connections, you can doping just about any oem lead and solder to the pin and re-pin it, taking care not to interfere with the pin going back in or it's locking system. 94

 

thanks guys ^^^^ ALARM INSTALLED W/ help of a friend who knew what he was doing.

just few questions with the alarm....i mounted antenna near rear view mirror like manual told me to. i get good range when just regular arming and disarming the alarm. but if i trigger the alarm, to turn it off takes a bit of effort. is it just to make u get close to the car and press it? it seems like i have to press it a few times before disarming while the siren is ringing. i found out cuz i was doing this in my garage which i share with a neighbor at night...the **** was going crazy and took me like 30 sec to turn off....haha jsut wondering.

another question is if the trunk is broken into first...and its open..should the trunk symbol on LCD be lit indicating its open?

thanks guys for the help. esp highlineCA, suspended hatch. it was way easier then i thought, there were so many wires it just scared me away from doing it to my previous cars. time consuming to double check the correct wires on made but other then that pretty straight forward.....THANKS GUYS

 

any help oin the alarm question about the range when trying to disarm it after being triggered?

 

It may not be a range problem but a delay problem, as soon as the alarm is triggered the main unit will start transmitting a signal to the remote, on many 2way systems the main unit can not receive when it is transmitting, try waiting 5 -10 sec. after triggering the alarm before you try disarming.

Sorry, not that familiar with the Python 902, however, if the trunk/hatch is connected to the blue (H1/7) instant trigger, Zone1, it should indicate trunk on the remote. 94

 

well yea the trunk warning light is hooked up..to blue h1/7 wire....but i haven't tested it out again yet...i'll do it sometime tomorrow. but the alarm works pretty good besides the disarming after it sets off. i do think its what you said FCM..the 5-10 sec. it did take about that long before i was able to disarm it.