Ok i understand the intall however are the torque specs now the same as it would be on the regular auto tensioner ?

 

No, use the torque specs from an H23 tensioner.

 

Im not really 100% on how this works. So when u torque everything to spec the belt should be on already and the torqing will tension the belt to where it should be ???

 

Dude, you really need to get a manual from all these questions you ask, but no, torquing it down does not tension the belt. You will have to manually tension it with the help of the tensioner, a bolt to hold it in place most likely some tools to help you pull the tensioner tight while you bolt it down.

So basically you tension the belt manually and then the bolts hold in tight.

 

well thats not in the 5th gen book i have. I figured why by a whole book for that. Im gonna be downloading it though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kornerk12 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well thats not in the 5th gen book i have </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ah ha, touche

I wouldn't buy the whole book either just for that. You should also look in the FAQs for 2point6's write-up on the manual tensioner.

 

If you're converting to a manual tensioner in your 5th Gen, then you probably won't be able to add any more tension to the belt since it's a VERY tight fit. And if you used the rear tensioner helper bracket, you definitely will be limited in movement since the rightside mounting bolt hits the tensioner pulley. Most guys will just omit this bracket.

But to answer your question, push down on the tensioner as best you can, then tighten up the main middle bolt. After everything's on, manually turn the motor a few rotations to re-check your timing marks.

 

Like everyone's saying, It's gonna be a tight fit just to get the belt on.

The way to properly tension it after everything is installed (besides the
upper timing cover and the valve cover) is to turn the crank counterclockwise
three teeth on the cams, loosen the 14mm tensioner bolt and then tighten it
back again. YOu should have plenty of tension after that.

Spin the motor around like stated before and check you marks again.

 

On a side note to the issue at hand, after how many miles should the manual tensioner be checked for belt tightness? When I first changed over to the manual tensioner, the builder had it pretty tight, it whined a bit. But now, over the course of a few years, the whine has gone away. I'm sitting at about 40k miles right now......