Motor delema.... EF sedan
Its about time for a motor swap in the EF.... just wanted to get some feedback from you guys.... I am looking to swap in 1 of the following 3 motors... if possible... please post the pro's and cons if you have that set-up... Thanks
Option 1: d16z6 + zex cam, I/H/E = low cost, easy to get cheap *** parts, reasonable power
Option 2: B20 + 10 lb Flywheel + I/4-1 Header/E + mild cams = more power/ more fun... downfalls...heavier, no vtec, have to buy mount kit
Option 3: b16a1 + R cams + Header = fun, but more expensive, less torque then b20, and still need a mount kit.
This is a daily driven car, non "Street Racer". just want something fun, but not crazy expensive.
Option 1: d16z6 + zex cam, I/H/E = low cost, easy to get cheap *** parts, reasonable power
Option 2: B20 + 10 lb Flywheel + I/4-1 Header/E + mild cams = more power/ more fun... downfalls...heavier, no vtec, have to buy mount kit
Option 3: b16a1 + R cams + Header = fun, but more expensive, less torque then b20, and still need a mount kit.
This is a daily driven car, non "Street Racer". just want something fun, but not crazy expensive.
I'd go with a B20...pretty good for a stock, then again very powerfull when upgraded. B16a on the otherhand is a good daily driver for reliability but if you're going to keep the internals stock, I'd go with the B20...B16a maybe a tad faster on the freeway, but I'd exchange that for the torque of the B20. I'd forget about the ZC...keep up with the times and go with the B-series engines...more power and more parts support (more money too), but it's getting cheaper now because of the availability. Good luck!
ok, if i go with the b20, i should use a 90-91 integra ls ecu right?... question.. will it plug into the ef harness or do i have to cut and match?
you have to run wires and convert your existing harness to run multi point fuel injection. check out http://www.hasport.com , they did all my wires, mounts and shift linkage. You also need to send your current wire harness for core if you decide to go with them... but to avoid down time because they can take up to a week and a half sometimes, I bought a stock wire harness from a local junk yard and sent that instead. It's actually an easy wire conversion and there's plenty of instructionals from hybrid sites. I was just too eager to get my car rollin and sacrificed the $250 bucks that Hasport charged...It's $199 if you just want a non vtec conversion.
have driven and worked on all of the below options,
for the B20B with YS1 or S1 tranny = defiantly worth the money and capable of high 13 second runs
from the dynos a healthy JDM b20B will put out 130-135whp without many mods and 125-130lb/ft of torque....on the street in traffic passing is no more then keeping it under 4k rpm....
d16z6 can be quick and will get you about 125-130whp with the mods described
mid-high 14 sec material
B16A needs to be be revved short of a circuit its torquless and street driving simply isn't fun, expect about 150-155whp but at 150lbs more and $1500 more spent
for the B20B with YS1 or S1 tranny = defiantly worth the money and capable of high 13 second runsfrom the dynos a healthy JDM b20B will put out 130-135whp without many mods and 125-130lb/ft of torque....on the street in traffic passing is no more then keeping it under 4k rpm....
d16z6 can be quick and will get you about 125-130whp with the mods described
mid-high 14 sec material
B16A needs to be be revved short of a circuit its torquless and street driving simply isn't fun, expect about 150-155whp but at 150lbs more and $1500 more spent
Trending Topics
hmmmm.... if memory serves me correctly, the S1 has the gearing as the ysi, but without the lsd right?.. fawk.. im kicking myself for selling my YS1 now... but hey, $950 US$$ was a nice tune to sell to... oh well....
On the B20Z, do you think the lightweight flywheel will make a big difference? I am trying to keep the motor as stock as possible but get as much power as possible with bolt on's...
With small bolt ons i am estimating hp to be around 150 to the wheels. This is what i would use if i go the B20 Z route... let me know if my estimate is close...
4-1 header, 3'' CAI (home made), lightweight pulley's, 10-11 lb flywheel, light mod to the ecu tuning.
[Modified by B16B, 10:05 PM 6/10/2002]
On the B20Z, do you think the lightweight flywheel will make a big difference? I am trying to keep the motor as stock as possible but get as much power as possible with bolt on's...
With small bolt ons i am estimating hp to be around 150 to the wheels. This is what i would use if i go the B20 Z route... let me know if my estimate is close...
4-1 header, 3'' CAI (home made), lightweight pulley's, 10-11 lb flywheel, light mod to the ecu tuning.
[Modified by B16B, 10:05 PM 6/10/2002]
exactly what i have currently...jdm 4-1 header/hks exhaust, aem cai, clutchmasters flywheel, y1 tranny...i made a mistake by putting in stock clutch and it has only been 2 months and i can feel it slipping a bit. *current kills: 90 mustang 5.0 (3 car lengths between stop lights), 2001 civic ex and si(on the freeway), 89 jetta gli 16v(like it was parked), 93 ls teg (i can still see his face when i left him on all gears)...but i was killed by a wrx the other day...just wait for my all out ls/vtec being built...
take your time & do a crvtec right - that's what I'm working on...
get the b16 & toss it in for the short term. then get yourself a b20 block & upgrade the pistons, rods & rings. once all that's done, you're ready to put the b16 head on & upgrade the valvetrain & cams. a hondata to manage it all would be a good move too. i can't remember where i saw them now, but i've seen 4-5 dyno sheets for built crvtec's that were allmotor, putting between 220-240 to the ground - that'll move an ef sedan pretty damn fast - or so i'm hoping!
Eric
get the b16 & toss it in for the short term. then get yourself a b20 block & upgrade the pistons, rods & rings. once all that's done, you're ready to put the b16 head on & upgrade the valvetrain & cams. a hondata to manage it all would be a good move too. i can't remember where i saw them now, but i've seen 4-5 dyno sheets for built crvtec's that were allmotor, putting between 220-240 to the ground - that'll move an ef sedan pretty damn fast - or so i'm hoping!
Eric
, I agree, CRVtec is the way to go...Import Builders sell a complete b20 block w/ forged pistons, balanced crank, eagle rods etc...for a little over $2K, shipped and includes the block. Or go for the complete motor. Jeff, the owner i think, offers discounts on honda-tech members too. Check out their website. http://www.importbuilders.com
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Yuta
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
7
Jun 20, 2019 09:59 AM



