help! h22a throttling issues!
i recently swapped a jdm h22 red top into my 92 prelude. i am having drivablilitly problems now. I am running a obd1 p13 ecu, no check engine lights. Idles well, but intermittently as i am driving the motor seems to have a sudden loss of power. like a fuel cut or something, motor is still running but when it does this the motor doesn't seem to accelerate at all, rpms fall, then suddenly power just pops back in. sometimes it will sputter first then does as stated above. When you press the gas while it is doing this you can hear the intake pulling in air but RPMS still fall at wide open throttle, but this is a consistent problem the whole time i am driving. The EGR system checks out, but when i unplug the EGR valve, the CEL comes on but the problem goes away, again though i have checked out the Valve, Solenoid, and Vacuum diaphragm and they all come back green, Vacuum lines also all appear to be in the right place.
Things checked:
EGR, EGR Solenoid,
Switched the computers with my h23 computer (same issue)
Traced the wires to make sure the EGR solenoid was getting power
and resistor changed the cap, coil, plugs and wires Checked all vacuum routing
TPS sensor checks out.
anyone guesses anyone?
Things checked:
EGR, EGR Solenoid,
Switched the computers with my h23 computer (same issue)
Traced the wires to make sure the EGR solenoid was getting power
and resistor changed the cap, coil, plugs and wires Checked all vacuum routing
TPS sensor checks out.
anyone guesses anyone?
Previous engine was the h23, i dont believe its the pump because when i unplug the EGR and the CEL comes on, the engine runs fine, the weird thing is tho i dont think its the egr thats messed up because ive tested the valve and even switched it, and it works fine, just whenever i unplug it the engine runs normal, but when everything is plugged in and looking right is there issues. i just cant figure out where or what can cause that throttle bouncing, it seems to be completely electronically controlled, tho even switching the computers the same problem is there
fuel filter and system are gold, fuel filter is 3 months old and the engine runs fine when the EGR isn't plugged in. This loss of power is an electronic loss not a physical loss of power caused by say clogged injectors or dirty lines. What would cause the engine to cut its own fuel supply until the engine reaches idle rpm, and then it would allow itself to speed back up for a second, and then it has to fall again? and why/how is it related to the EGR system and why leaving the egr unplugged seems to temporarily fix the issue. very confused..
my h22 hatch is doing the same problem, but i have my tps unplugged. and it's not the fuel. it just bogs down. maybe it's the tps. I unplugged it because my car was running a whole lot smother w/o it. every time i plugged it in i would get a crazy idle up and down. and I dont have the egr hooked up either. I replaced my dist. bout 1 year ago and it should be fine. dont know what the deal is, either tps or coil is my guess. any help would be great for both of us.
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A thought from left field.....
Possibly bad ignition switch on the steering column. Higher engine rpm causes buzzing or vibration that causes bad contact in ignition switch. I don't have a high confidence that this is the problem, but I have seen an issue like this on another type car.
BIG HUGE WARNING - DO NOT TRY THIS WHILE THE CAR IS MOVING !!! The problem can be reproduced just by turning OFF ignition switch (WARNING just one notch or steering will LOCK). Often, there will be a "pop" when the ignition is turned back on as unburned fuel in the exhaust system ignites.
Possibly bad ignition switch on the steering column. Higher engine rpm causes buzzing or vibration that causes bad contact in ignition switch. I don't have a high confidence that this is the problem, but I have seen an issue like this on another type car.
BIG HUGE WARNING - DO NOT TRY THIS WHILE THE CAR IS MOVING !!! The problem can be reproduced just by turning OFF ignition switch (WARNING just one notch or steering will LOCK). Often, there will be a "pop" when the ignition is turned back on as unburned fuel in the exhaust system ignites.
I would say bad ground somewhere. I'd double and tripple check ALL grounds and not just by yanking or wiggling on them. Do a continuity check from one end to other with a meter. Some times even if its metal to metal contact the continuity isn't that good still. Need to separate connectings, do some more grinding on the metal surfaces, add some dielectric grease, and tighten everything back together solid.
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Preludes'R'Us
Hybrid / Engine Swaps
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Jun 25, 2005 05:15 PM




