need some help on finishing this

doing the obd0 to obd1 conversion on my 90 crx si. z6 head on an a6 block

car is cranking but wont go further. i feel its distributor related because its the same symptoms as when one time i was using a wrond dizzy on a swap i did.

first possible question is the wiring. I wired the dizzy plugs, but the colors were not all match up. colors were close and 2 i had to guess on.

heres a chart of the wiring i did. Please not if i messed up:

<U>obd0 -&gt; obd1</U>
light blue w/ yellow stripe----&gt; blue w/ yellow stripe
light blue w/ green strip------&gt; blue w/ green stripe
light peach w/ green strip----&gt; orange w/ blue stripe
light pech solid----------------&gt; orange solid
white w/ blue stripe-----------&gt; white w/ blue stripe
white solid---------------------&gt; white solid (guessed)
white solid---------------------&gt; yellow w/ green stripe (guessed)


the dizzy is off a d16z6. it bolted on right. But here is a pic to ask if maybe i didnt match the cylinders right or the dizzy is sitting wrong (advenced or something). I labeled which cylinder each plug goes to aswel as how the dizzt sits at eye level (pic on the left)




Thats all i could think of it being why the car wont start. wrong wire, dizzy sitting wrong, or matched the cylinders wrong

 

set the engine to TDC on cylinder #1 compression stroke. Cam gear is pointing straight up and tdc mark on crank pulley is at tdc white line. And cylinder #1's intake(x2) and exhaust (x2) valves rocker arms are all loose and also if you want to be really sure stick a long screwdriver in #1's cylinders spark plug hole and rotate to get the piston at its highest point(tdc) where the screwdriver gets pushed out to its highest point.

THEN take the cap off the dizzy and see which terminal the rotor is pointing at, that will be where your #1 cylinder plug wire will be plugged into, and then when you find that it goes clockwise from 1 to 3,4 then 2.
Therefore at the timing belt side of the engine the rotation of the engine is counter-clockwise.

 

really do all that? i guess its worth a shot...

is my wiring atleast right? need to change anything?

Anybody who can just look and recognise got any opinions and ideas???

 

i have a simple wiring diagram that i use. let me find it real quick.....
i made it myself when i did my obd1 conversion it should work for all obd1 dizzy....hope this helps moderator plz archive this pic.....oh yea its hand drawn so dont laugh. lol

 

if there is no spark then switch the 2 white wires for the dizzy on the harness side. The two white wires are easily confused and one of them goes to the yellow/green from the obd-1 dizzy wiring.

 

oh yea this is lookin at the obd0 female plug and then to obd1 male plug

 

ALSO, it doesnt matter how you have your wires arranged for the dizzy as long as all the wires match up (peach is really just faded orange so all the colours are EXACTLY the same just one of the white wires goes to the yellow/green wire. its very easy, if you get no spark just switch one of the white wires around, its happened a hundred times and its an easy fix

 

damn. well. i have the plugs in hand and i wired them up EXACTLY like the in the diagram that crx_si-r posted.

damn....by visual though did i label and match the plugs from the dizzy to the cylinders in right ordder? does it look bolted on right too? May have to do what mattie_96 said?

with those questions aside if they dont solve anything: Are there any other common problems that cause no stats during omb0 to obd1 conversions?

 

with what I mentioned, its 4 routes to achieve the same result, but if you do 3/4 of what I mentioned you can bet your life that the firing order is 100% CORRECT

 

well i know everything is ligned up when i did the timing on it last month when i did the head swap part.
tomorrow ill do the dizzy cap check to see where its sitting and and go from there to see if i need to change to plugs.

answer better be in there somewhere or i gotta trouble shoot everything bit by bit &gt;.&lt;

 

well basically if it cranks but doesnt start ide switcht the solid wires around as its a very common mistake and takes 2 seconds to correct.
But let us know as ill be glad to help you

 

oh yea this is a big one. make sure the coil still has the spring on the tip of it and that the rotor is still bolted to the shaft

 

fixed it

had the plugs on wrong.

update al ittle later what thier correct positions are

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_si-r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a simple wiring diagram that i use. let me find it real quick.....
i made it myself when i did my obd1 conversion it should work for all obd1 dizzy....hope this helps moderator plz archive this pic.....oh yea its hand drawn so dont laugh. lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>

that orange stipe is it also a wire that taps in with that same wire

 

is the wiring the same for B-series

 

yup wire set ups are the same. this is what i use to make my adapter harnesses.

 

I have a 1988 4 door dx and im trying to figure out whitch wires are the injector wires at the ecu plugs.....any idea?


thanks, chris.

 

Random, anyways since you have an non-PGMFI ECU set up your factory harness should have injectors feeds at the following:
A1 - Yellow - Aux Inject
A3 - Yellow - Aux Inject
A5 - Red - Main Inject
A7 - Red - Main Inject

 

thanks man. I have a mini me setup in my 4 door with a rywire obd1 engine harness,jumper,and chipped ecu and im getting no fuel to injectors 2 and 3 so im trying to chase wires and figure out what the deal is, any input always helps. thanks for the info again.

 

Your drawing was a huge help to me man. Hi tech isn't always the best lol