70mm Throttle body on CTR
Seeing as your a CTR and you have a high compression already and some pretty decent cams id say bolt it up and get a street tune and you should see some good results. On my B16 I had I/H/E/TB/IM/S2S2 Cams and after I got my tune I was very impressed.
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i sell brand new blox 68mm or 70mm throttle bodies, essentially the same as skunk2 except it doesn't get recalled every year because of problems, $230 shipped to anywhere in the 48 states
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JJSpecTuning »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i sell brand new blox 68mm or 70mm throttle bodies, essentially the same as skunk2 except it doesn't get recalled every year because of problems, $230 shipped to anywhere in the 48 states</TD></TR></TABLE>
Way to help with the thread
Way to help with the thread
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would not use a 70mm on a mild NA setup. 68mm is a great NA TB. I would stay away from the skunk2 unless they fixed there sticking problem. I hated that. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sticking problem?
Sticking problem?
When i had mine, if i was to completely close the throttle (example WOT then take your foot off), you would have to give it good force to get it to open again. It was fine at first but then just got annoying, if you adjusted the bump stop it wouldnt be fully closed. The problem was that the plate was to big for the TB area. Weither or not they fixed that problem i dont know, i just stay away from them now.
i wouldnt get it i like the 69mm taper bore..The 75-69mm taper which is force fed as you accelerate eliminates any bog that you experience from a big straight bore throttle body, and ive seen dyno charts, its does make a difference.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When i had mine, if i was to completely close the throttle (example WOT then take your foot off), you would have to give it good force to get it to open again. It was fine at first but then just got annoying, if you adjusted the bump stop it wouldnt be fully closed. The problem was that the plate was to big for the TB area. Weither or not they fixed that problem i dont know, i just stay away from them now. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I hear ya on that. My friend bought a skunk2 intake manifold for his B16 one time and it was choking the **** outta the motor. Even after we brought it to a dyno (a well known dyno, too) they couldn't even get the numbers it was pulling with the stock manifold on it.
Put the stock mani back on it and it they got the same numbers again.
After that, I said skunk2 for shifters 'n such, not for air flow parts
. I'm gettin my shifter skunk2.
Yeah, I hear ya on that. My friend bought a skunk2 intake manifold for his B16 one time and it was choking the **** outta the motor. Even after we brought it to a dyno (a well known dyno, too) they couldn't even get the numbers it was pulling with the stock manifold on it.
Put the stock mani back on it and it they got the same numbers again.
After that, I said skunk2 for shifters 'n such, not for air flow parts
. I'm gettin my shifter skunk2.
BDL only has a tapered 74-72 TB. There 68 and 70 are straight through. I dont think any company maxs them off the shelf like that unless it was a bored out stock TB (like Maxbore. RPM might have them but even then i dont know for sure.
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