Asteele and rJ have detailed the issues with using aftermarket clipons for an F4i and trying to mount them below the triple tree. There are major issues with clearance that are hard to describe w/o pictures (which are forthcoming) and I wouldn't advise using them on a streetbike.

but since i've got a trackbike that's already a mish-mash of modifications and only requires limited controls and gauges and whatnot, here's what needs to be done, so far.

Mounting the clip ons and the controls to the tubes isn't a big deal. Though, I don't have the left bar's control cluster (w/ turn signals and high/low beam) because i don't need them. I've also removed the ram air covers because again, they're not necessary, so i haven't experienced any issues w/ clearance w/ regard to those.

The major clearance issue when you mount C/O below the 3x tree is w/ the guage cluster, fairing stay and the MC. the MC will hit the cluster and the stay, depending on its position and angle, and can be positioned so that there's a little extra turning radius when pushing the right grip forward--however, w/ my SS lines, they tend to get kinked on the lower part of the stay's bracket. The throttle lines also tend to hit the upper part of the stay, so i've turned the rightside controls so that the hardlines of the throttle cable are mostly out of the way.

I unmounted the gauge cluster and have it turned 90 degrees, which eliminates the cluster from interfering (though, i'm not sure it'll really work once i mount the upper--i'm pretty sure it'll hit the windscreen, but aside from the tach and the light bar, i don't really need the digital part of the cluster so maybe i can make a new, more compact housing for the tach and the lights) but the right side of the stay is still an issue and i don't think it can be resolved without getting a different MC, hopefully one with a remote reservoir.

which is where RJ's work w/ the 1000rr MC comes in--i'm pretty sure i could fabricate a new bracket to get the MC brake fluid reservoir out of the way of the fairing stay, (and i'm hoping that the brakelines will not be in a position where they're vulnerable to damage) and i anticipate that at that point the clip ons should work.

That being said, i like the body position on the bike with the clip ons in that position--combined w/ my aftermarket rearsets, the position is a little more track appropriate, but the key question is whether this hodgepodge and game of twister will stand up to the rigors of trackdays.

 

Ah.... is this where I say itoldyouso?

Good luck getting it to work and post some pictures

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ah.... is this where I say itoldyouso?

Good luck getting it to work and post some pictures </TD></TR></TABLE>

haha yeah, i knew it was going to be ugly.

but i think i'll get it to work. need to get that 1krr MC. i could also notch the fairing stay.

but i think making a custom gauge cluster will the be hard/fun part.

 

So it wasn't easy, but, it works for now. Won't know until i ride the thing, which won't be for a while. Since my bike is track only and is not required to a) look pretty or b) be street legal, i've found ways to make it all work, but i do NOT recommend trying this with a streetbike, because frankly, i don't think it'll work.



So as you know, the main problem with mounting the clipons under the 3x tree is that there are about 5 clearance issues you need to deal with. We'll get to those issues later, but the first thing is to mount the clip-ons. using the stock clip-ons as a guide for what angle the new bars should be at, mount them below the triple tree.

After the new bars are on, remove the oem clipons and remove all of the things you need to transfer and do so. I don't have the left control cluster (w/ hi-beam, turn signals or horn, because i have none of those things on my bike) so I think that that might simplify things on that side of the bike. There are no clearance issues going to full right-hand lock w/ just the clutch lever assembly.



The right side is a totally different story though. 2 things are going to have clearance issues on this side. The first is the throttle cable hardlines. They'll hit the fairing stay as you turn the wheel left. This is a relatively easy fix, as you can simply rotate the throttle assembly so that the hard lines are out of the way. this also gives you more room for the master cylinder, rotating it up or down. The MC is the main issue, as it will not only hit the fairing stay, but the gauge cluster. unfortunately, with the F4i's box MC, there's not much you can do about it besides relocating the gauge cluster. Just take it off and figure it out later. So, with no GC, the only interference with the MC is the fairing stay--you can find an angle where the reservoir clears, but as you get to full left lock, you'll notice your brake lines rubbing against the fairing stay. Brake lines aren't something i want to f*ck with, so getting them out of the way is important.


notice that the brake lines are pointed straight down

On the MC, you'll notice a little metal extension to keep the brake lines from rotating. Unfortunately, that piece of metal is in the way, so dremel it off. Whatever it's there for doesn't seem to be that important. once you rotate the brake lines down, and out of the way, you can then wiggle and find just the right lateral placement of the MC and angle.



At full lock, OEM levers will rub against the outside top of your lower fairings, but i'm guessing some shorties will fix the problem. or, if you have a ratty rattlecan paint job on some rashed fairings and don't give a fu*k, you leave em be. You'll also find that the throttle cable hard lines will hit your ram air ducts as you get to full right lock. It's not a big deal, and the ram air covers are long gone, because the ducts are a soft plastic and give pretty easily.



The last thing to decide is where to put the cluster. You don't really have much of a choice: zip tie it to the triple tree. It's not pretty, and you can always just ditch your gauges (i decided to keep mine b/c i want to know water temp and don't want to install a singular water temp gauge, and it'd be nice to know RPM), but you can zip tie them such that the cluster doesn't block preload adjustment, doesn't have any clearnace issues, and is probably visible when you're on the bike.

So, after all is said and done, and yo've got the jankiest looking bike in the paddock, you'll forget all about it when you get out on track and have a bike with a proper riding position.

Thanks goes to ASteele2 for giving some insight on the install, and to .rJ for being a h8r and motivating me!