I have a '94 GSR. When I leave the house my car runs just fine (cold). When it reaches right around 150 degrees it starts to spit and sputter. Like it is missing. But, when it hits around 165 degrees it goes away. When it does spit and sputter, I mash the pedal and it goes away and the car takes right off. I put a new coil, plugs, wires, rotor, and cap, but has only, seemed to help. I put the Bosch platinum +4 iridium core plugs, MSD modified cap, blaster coil, and 8.5mm SC wires. What in the world would make it do this. Like I said, it only does this between 150-165 degrees at normal driving conditions no matter what gear I am in.


Modified by hucoreyCRX at 4:32 PM 7/10/2007

 

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It's the blaster coil. I had a msd set-up on my 90 ls when I sold it I took it out of the ls and put it on my 95 gsr. I felt the difference on the ls but not on the gsr. And it started acting up on me in the gsr. It actually left me stranded a few times. I figured it was the coil and changed it and it stopped for a while but started up again. I pulled the whole msd setup out and the gsr ran perfect after that. I would recommend taking it out of your gsr as soon as you can. It's going to ruin your whole dist system.

 

I had the same thing happened to me so I took a vacume line off and now idles an 1000 rpms but dont break down on me any more.

 

Its not the MSD coil or anything else MSD because it was doing it for quite a while before I put all the additions in.

 

bump...any takers...where are the guru's in here or anyone thats heard of any car doing this let alone a honda???

 

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bump...bump...bump Does anyone have any ideas??????????????

 

160 different people and nobody has any idea???

 

I had a similar problem with my gsr last year, car died on me when it was hot after it had sputterted and spat. Had it towed to my mechanic twice

I had the cap, rotor, coil, and spark plugs replaced. After that it died again OMG

So I finally had it towed to Acura and they told me that there was a sensor that went bad in the distributor, but that the whole distributor had to be replaced. I was tired of having my car towed so i bent over and paid the 900+ for parts and labor at the dealer. I later found out that i could have bought the sensor seperatly and replaced it myself. Oh well....lesson learned. I still feel like an idiot to this day for paying that much for something so small, freakin stealership.

So my suggestion is to see if you can find that sensor in the distributor and replace it. Or you could just borrow a friends distributor and see if that is the problem. Good luck.

 

Symptoms are somewhat similar to what I experienced on my old '90 Civic Si. Right at the half warm point it would hesitate or stumble slightly. On very rare occasions it would die when coasting to a stop. Long story longer, I replaced the O2 sensor because it was slow and lazy. (Actually replaced it 3 times. The first 2 Bosch Generics either didn't work or only worked for a week. Ended up paying more for the OEM sensor from Honda.)

It seems when the engine is fully warmed, it's not as sensitive to the misinformation from the O2 sensor. But right at the critical transisition point from cold to warm, it causes problems. Test your sensor first. A simple but not too accurate test is as follows...(At least it was valid for my Civic)

With a fully warmed engine, try to hold a steady RPM in neutral of around 2600RPM. If the tach varies (bounces up and down) +/-75 RPM in a repeating cycle, chances are the O2 sensor is slow or lazy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hucoreyCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a '94 GSR. When I leave the house my car runs just fine (cold). When it reaches right around 150 degrees it starts to spit and sputter. Like it is missing. But, when it hits around 165 degrees it goes away. When it does spit and sputter, I mash the pedal and it goes away and the car takes right off. I put a new coil, plugs, wires, rotor, and cap, but has only, seemed to help. I put the Bosch platinum +4 iridium core plugs, MSD modified cap, blaster coil, and 8.5mm SC wires. What in the world would make it do this. Like I said, it only does this between 150-165 degrees at normal driving conditions no matter what gear I am in.


Modified by hucoreyCRX at 4:32 PM 7/10/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

First of take out the Bosch plugs, i've had nothing but problems with them, stick with NGK.

Second do you have any CEL?

I'd start with replacing the o2 and then replace the dizzy after that.

 

The Bosch plugs seemed to help a bit. Strangely enough I have yet to get any CEL's. I went to AUTOzone to get my ECU read and they didnt have the the adapter cord to check it (imagine that). So I went to leave and the car would not start. I had all power to everything, battery tested good (did that while I was there in the parking lot). Thought maybe a blew an igntion relay fuse. I ended up having a couple of other guys push start me and it fired right away. Then I stalled it twice (LOL) but it started right back up. Could it be the TPS?

 

bosch plugs belong in german cars...ngk or denso is the way to go. i know bosch are cheap but theyre cheap for a reason...anyway as said b4 check ur distributor i had a ls in shop 2 weeks ago w/ same problem and i swapped the dist and it went away. if it doesnt go away when u swap w/ a known good dist try getting a reading off the o2, ect temp sensor, vtec oil pressure switch and tps. goodluck im trying to post the specs from the honda/acura site but i cant get the link from my pc ill have to try from my laptop////so sit tight

 

The Bosch plugs werent cheap by any means, they were $12 each. I tried the "manual O2 test" and couldnt really tell that much. But it seems as I may start with the O2 sensor. Does everyone recommend the O2 from the stealership, or will the ones at Napa or autozone do just fine?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hucoreyCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Does everyone recommend the O2 from the stealership, or will the ones at Napa or autozone do just fine?</TD></TR></TABLE>

dealership no doubt, or order them online

 

Thanks, I bet they are stupidly expensive too. But, if the OEM are the ones that are going to work, what choice do I really have.

 

I finally got my O2 sensor in and fortunately that was the problem. Thanks to the Acura dealer of Peoria, AZ. The jerk stealerships around my area actually wanted more than MSRP of $244.43. Got it from the other dealer significantly cheaper with shipping includes and was OEM. Also thanks for all the info from those that replied.