i have a stock d16y8... is the bottom end strong enough for a turbo??? and is the stock transmission gonna hol dup to the power???? im new to turbos and my motor so any comments would help.

 

For moderate boost like 8-10 lbs stock lower end is fine i wouldnt go any higher than that stock though. As for your tranny your most likely going to have to replace your clutch with a performance clutch.

 

Make your goal based on whp, not psi. Psi on two different sized turbos make totally different power.

Stock D-series in good condition are fine for 220-250 whp.

 

The y8's don't have the best bottom end, but then again it's all in the tuning. Heck, I spun a bearing in my y8 at it was n/a with intake and exhaust.

-Shane

 

i blew my y8 and it was n/a but its seen alot of track time. plus it was a daily driver.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jhonny Ricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For moderate boost like 8-10 lbs stock lower end is fine i wouldnt go any higher than that stock though. As for your tranny your most likely going to have to replace your clutch with a performance clutch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

^ what he said. I'm boosted and tuned @ 10psi and have put 50,000 mi on it. Get it tuned and you'll be fine unless your wanting more. Oh and get ARP headbolts, the stockers will stretch out on you and you will blow a head gasket.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make your goal based on whp, not psi. Psi on two different sized turbos make totally different power.

Stock D-series in good condition are fine for 220-250 whp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, whp - NOT psi.

What's wrong with pple?

As far as HP goes - I wouldn't trust a D series over 200whp on stock internals w/o threatening the life of it.

 

Agreed.
I'm at 202 Whp on stock internals @ 10 PSI.
It's good enough for me

 

what does whp stand for ??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make your goal based on whp, not psi. Psi on two different sized turbos make totally different power.

Stock D-series in good condition are fine for 220-250 whp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

he's the man!

whp=wheel horsepower

 

W=Wheel
H=Horse
P=Power

 

i think they are using the age-old assumption of 10whp per psi...it's an average assuming the equipment you have has moderate efficiency.

at any rate, i'd suggest staying in the 200-210 whp range. this assumes you will be using
1. some sort of dyno tuning with good software
2. upgraded injectors/ fuel pump
3. platform is in good working order

im unsure of why so many people have had oiling issues with their y8 because i had a built na y8 that i am currently selling that has been together for several years with no oiling issues whatsoever. people fault the pump but it's been fine for me under years of stress and that is with an increased redline, whereas with your setup you would be keeping within the factory restraints.

 

well ive blown two y8's in the last 3 months both due to oiling issues the first was boosted the second one was N/A spun rod bearings expletive y8's im getting a z6 now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think they are using the age-old assumption of 10whp per psi...it's an average assuming the equipment you have has moderate efficiency.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, more acurately, whp at any given psi is measured at bars. For example, lets say my motor being completely stock puts down 145 to the wheels. Assuming I boost at 14.7 lbs (I know it's high, but for argument's sake), or 1 bar, I'm essentially doubling the whp of my car to about 290 whp (since at sea level, my n/a motor runs at atmospheric pressure, or 14.7 lbs of pressure).

Now, for the OP taking these calculations into account, assuming you have a completely stock motor, your whp should be about 105. Boosting @ 8 psi should yield ~160 whp and at 10 psi you are looking at about 175 whp.

Now, obviously every motor is different, as well as turbos, and any mods done to the motor with change the effective whp after turbo'ing, and as long as you tune, you should be fine. But like I said, I know quite a few people on here that have had problems with their y8's, such as myself, but again, every motor is different.

-Shane

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nighttrain33 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Actually, more acurately, whp at any given psi is measured at bars. For example, lets say my motor being completely stock puts down 145 to the wheels. Assuming I boost at 14.7 lbs (I know it's high, but for argument's sake), or 1 bar, I'm essentially doubling the whp of my car to about 290 whp (since at sea level, my n/a motor runs at atmospheric pressure, or 14.7 lbs of pressure).

Now, for the OP taking these calculations into account, assuming you have a completely stock motor, your whp should be about 105. Boosting @ 8 psi should yield ~160 whp and at 10 psi you are looking at about 175 whp.

Now, obviously every motor is different, as well as turbos, and any mods done to the motor with change the effective whp after turbo'ing, and as long as you tune, you should be fine. But like I said, I know quite a few people on here that have had problems with their y8's, such as myself, but again, every motor is different.

-Shane</TD></TR></TABLE>
what you say is interesting. one thing that popped up when i first read it is doesn't that assume perfect 100% efficiency of the 'make-up' pressure?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what you say is interesting. one thing that popped up when i first read it is doesn't that assume perfect 100% efficiency of the 'make-up' pressure?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Right. Now what I was saying is completely theoretical. It assumes completely perfect conditions at sea level. It should at least come out to be pretty close though.

-Shane

 

It depends if you want it reliable and if you want to do it the right way. Like all these guys are saying. 10lbs= good boost level, however make sure you do it RIGHT can't stress this enough. This means upgraded fuel pump, bigger injectors, clutch, head studs, Fuel management (Crome, uberdata, neptune, hondata) all these are good. Plus STAY AWAY FROM XS POWER!!!!!!!! cheap **** will always break on you. A good friend of mine had a Y8 that ran 15lbs for about 10 months... Car ran great. When we took apart the motor to put forged internals in it 1 rod was bent. So how long do you want your car to stay boosted without touching internals?

 

i want it to run for about 8 months i think....im gonna rebuild or swap next summer

 

If you do it right, you won't have to worry about ruining your motor. Once you get used to the boost, you'll want to crank it up, and this is where problems arise.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t0p_sh0tta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you do it right, you won't have to worry about ruining your motor. Once you get used to the boost, you'll want to crank it up, and this is where problems arise.</TD></TR></TABLE>


You are absolutely right. So I would do it the right way. Drive it on 10lbs for about 3-5 months till you get use to boost. Then go to 12lbs as long as it is tuned that motor should last you about a year on 12lbs.