i know most ppl that lowers their car run without camber kit, just want to know some of the problem with this?

i'm wondering how come mugen didn't make any camber kits? or do they have it?

any good camber that you guys are using?
most ppl that i know of are using these: skunk2, kings, ingall, sprints, srr, a sport, spoon... etc


i want to get some camber kit for my car but dont' know what's good out there.??




[Modified by Anderson, 8:44 AM 6/7/2002]

 

You'll need it if you lower it a lot. Your camber will increase (negative).

 

Whne I had my ITR. I had Apex'i WS Dampers and 17 inch Volk SE-37K's and I was lowerd @ 2 inch's. Never needed a camber kit. The tires wore perfect (Actually they never wore because I'm not hard on tires).

 

isn't it good to have some camber anyways?

 

Too much will hurt the grip and stability at straight line and also braking....

 

negitive camber is good for track and auto-x. Too much negitive camber on the street will wear the inside of the tires. Like the previous threads, it all depends on how much you lower the car. I have the Mugen "lowdown kit" and only a 3/4" drop. A little more neg. camber is ok just adjust the toe to 0.

 

I have the comptech/Ingalls front and rear. Yes I know you don't need the rears cuz you can just use washers to push it out however a rear camber kit thats polyurathane or metal helps with a firmer rebound and stiffens up the tire play a little in turns.
I'm in the process of changing kits right now. In the rear I now have the King kit (which is just a renamed kit) with solid mounts and in the front I might keep the Ingalls or go to a Skunk/King/ everyone else design. I'm just testing different kits here and their to see if their is a big difference or how they gain or lose in each respect.
Over all I feel they are good to have. Especally the front. The ability to adjust your camber as needed and the ability to keep the tires from getting all messed up to do negitave camber from lowering is a good idea.

 

all depends on the user and what the car is for.

I would say any camber less than -2 degrees is nothing that will be harmful to tires. TOE is what will wear out tires much more than camber. I would worry more about proper camber for auto-x and track handling reasons.

 

why dun u jsut drop ur car.. and get a camber kit and it shoudl be adjustable.. and set it to the stock camber setting of the ITR.. which is liek .4 degrees or sumtin right? yea.. if u drop it a lot ur gonan want one.. my friends ar has liek 6 degree camber the kits dontl; realyl work for him cus they don;t adjust that much lol... he went to go get his tires alighned and they wer having a bitch of a time.. getting that sucka up lol

 

Camber kit is a good thing to have for a lowered car.

When the car is lowered, springs have to be stiffen up so that you won't bounce off the bumpstops. When the springs are stiff, your wheel travel would be less and thus less camber induced by the wheel motion (less dynamic camber).

So by installing a camber kit, you can increase the camber statically (when car is not moving) so your tires would have better contact patch in turns. A lowered car with stiff springs with no or little negative camber can mess up the handling.

 

What alignment settings do you like running wai?

 

I have -2 front and -2 back, zero toe front and rear. I think I would be more satisfied and quicker with -3 front. But now I still need to drive the car to the track so I would stick with -2 for now....
Wait til I get a tow vehicle then I don't have to worry it.

 

zero toe really?

I run 1/4" toe out in the front and zero toee in the rear. I get better turn in with the additional toe out and with good rotation no major tire wear from daily driving. From what I have read toe in naturally occurs under accelleration so 1/4" might be over kill but zero leaves room for toe in while turning.

Thoughts?

 

this sounds kind of stupid.. but how do you adjust toe setting?

 

alignment shop would do it. THe tie rods in the front and trailing arms in the rear are adjustable.

 

would u have a pic of this?

thanks Asahi

 

this is dumber but wut is toe?... is it like horizontal degrees of change?

 

I went with zero toe is mainly because of tire wear problem. Toe, by itself, might not be too bad, but toe PLUS camber would be a disaster!

As for better turn-in with your front toe-out setup, I have some different opinions on that (based on my understanding on toe effects). Toe-out should induce understeer at turn in; for example:
you're approaching a left turn, you brake and start to turn your steering wheel (turn in), your front right tire would be most loaded. At this time, if you have toe out, that loaded tire would be pointing slightly away from the apex, thus understeer.

Same token applies to toe in. At the moment you turn the steering wheel, the most loaded tire would be pointing slightly towards the apex, thus sharper turn in.

At track out (foot on gas), weight transfer to the rear outside tire and the same rule applies again.

I really haven't played with different toe settings before. So all I learned about it was just plain general theories that might be different on cars with different suspension design.