Grey Welds with SS and only 40 amps on the tig
I dunno why but my welds are coming out grey which i thought was too hot so i turned it down to 40amp?? Any one.
Welding 1/16" exhaust piping SS with 3/32 Tungstien. and 40amps
Welding 1/16" exhaust piping SS with 3/32 Tungstien. and 40amps
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMCRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok im gonna try that and also gas is at 10cfm</TD></TR></TABLE>
crank that **** up to 30..
to little gas will hurt your welds, to much wont.
p.s. dont keep SS hot for to long, if u lift your hood and your piece is red hot, chances are its gonna rust on the weld. also make sure u keep your postflow on the piece after u stopped the arc.
crank that **** up to 30..
to little gas will hurt your welds, to much wont.
p.s. dont keep SS hot for to long, if u lift your hood and your piece is red hot, chances are its gonna rust on the weld. also make sure u keep your postflow on the piece after u stopped the arc.
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Yeap but like he posted its easy to keep it at certin amps. I just did most of the exhaust and the welds are alotttt better
i've been practicing at about 45 amps on mild steel 1/16 tubing so I guess I'll try to lower that to 25-30 to see the results. The tig calculator on the miller site recommends 50-80 amps so why the huge difference?
When I 1st starte welding, I used to weld SS at like 70+ amps haha and I never understood why i would get crazy holes everywhere.
Mild steel requires a little more heat to weld in relation to thickness.
Also, the effects of too much heat are minor on mild steel.
It has to do with thermal conductivity, stainless has less.
This means the heat does not spread through the work as fast, enabling the use of less heat to maintain the puddle.
It's also ther reason why stainless distorts more.
Also, the effects of too much heat are minor on mild steel.
It has to do with thermal conductivity, stainless has less.
This means the heat does not spread through the work as fast, enabling the use of less heat to maintain the puddle.
It's also ther reason why stainless distorts more.
Well i did the 29 amps and floor it and wow my beads are coming out very nice. here is a pic not very clear but alot better
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sims »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">too much gas with a gas lens will actually swirl oxygen from the atmosphere and hurt the weld quality...
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Do you have a gas lense? Too little gas coverage can produce the same results as much heat.
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Do you have a gas lense? Too little gas coverage can produce the same results as much heat.
If you are using a standard-style cup on your torch, too much gas is just as bad as too little. You have to find that sweet spot, which varies with cup size. I use between 10 and 25 cfh depending on cup size. More than that, and the turbulence starts to mix ambient air into the gas as it leaves the cup.
If you are using a gas lens, you can crank it to 30 if you want, and it will cover you nice and good.
If you're welding stainless, I would definitely recommend a gas lens setup. Works great.
If you are using a gas lens, you can crank it to 30 if you want, and it will cover you nice and good.
If you're welding stainless, I would definitely recommend a gas lens setup. Works great.
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