Well the car was running just fine this morning. I went to work normally, hit vtec a couple times around the twisties, etc. I never had an issue. I never got on it crazy, never over like 5000-6000rpms.

Well after work I get in and on the way home it starts to misfire and hesitate. It was BAD!! Anything over 1/4 throttle and it would misfire and hesitate bad. Mind you no Check engine light, nothing. Car idles fine, nothing loopy, etc.

So I get home, inspect the plugs which are 1 month old. They look a little dark but nothing crazy. So I swap them out with new plugs (NGK Copper), properly gapped etc. Check grounds, check plug wires (Spoon wires), check the connections to the plugs and the distributor (TD-44U Distributor King Dizzy, (6months old)) I check fluids and oil level all within spec.

I hope in it, its better...a little hesitation upon giving it a Blip on the throttle then rpm's raise no problem.

So I get in the car, let it warm up to normal operating temp. I can now get on it at any amount of throttle, so I hit a straight stretch, I get higher RPM's hit vtec during PARTIAL THROTTLE. So at about 5k I open it up to WOT. Sputters and hesitation again. This continues..... I can run it at any partial throttle amount, but when it hits WOT it sputters no matter when.

I go home, check spark, I have spark in all 4 cylinders, again no CEL, nothing. Anything I missed, or someone who has gone through this before? Please help shed some insight on what is going on or what is causing this.

Engine ran like a champ before this afternoon.

 

 

how about fuel pump and fuel filter? how is the feed pressure?

 

Any way to test that that I am unaware of? I haven't changed the fuel filter yet, I will look into getting one and seeing if that helps. It needs to be done anyway.....

 

Still looking for other options or experiences too

thanks builthatch for the response

 

what coil are you using? internal honda or external aftermarket? is the ignition stock, meaning no multiple spark units or anything?

i am looking at wear items here since it was running well and now is intermittently showing issues when stresses are the highest (high rpm)

re: testing fuel pressure, if you could hook up a in cabin fuel pressure gauge to see if the fuel pressure is dropping when you are at full throttle and demands are the highest.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what coil are you using? internal honda or external aftermarket? is the ignition stock, meaning no multiple spark units or anything?

i am looking at wear items here since it was running well and now is intermittently showing issues when stresses are the highest (high rpm)

re: testing fuel pressure, if you could hook up a in cabin fuel pressure gauge to see if the fuel pressure is dropping when you are at full throttle and demands are the highest.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is a ditributor king distributor and all internals. It is an OEM replacement item. Besides that my ignition is stock

 

up

 

I don't know why people insist on going external coil, the Honda coil is capable of 50,000V.

Jump the SCS connector, just because the MIL did not light up doesn't mean there isn't a code. 70-74 are the codes im hoping will show up.

Even if the fuel pressure drops a hair, the PCM will command the duty cycle higher to ensure it maintains a rich condition at WOT.

I would inspect the distributor ignition components, I have several very detailed writeups on conditions like this, that I have also experienced myself. I had the same condition (high load misfire) It ended up being the BLK/YEL wire in my distributor harness that I cut to fit the B16A in my 2000 EX, had a loose soldier joint, and was corroding, causing the miss. The tach will normally go nuts with this problem as well.

 

im having this issue as well right now anytime i get to 5k the motor thru about 75k the moter hesitates ALOT the from there to 88k it all power again. today my car died on the freeway to find out at the side oh the road my coil was came loose.but still haveing this issue ive changed caps,coils and rewired dizzy twice still problem.

 

 

Ok changed fuel filter and regapped the plugs. Didn't fix it. It will go into Vtech and it will handle RPM's at a gradual change, 1/4 throttle at a time.

I can go all the way to redline this way. It is when I give the throttle a quick floor or a little blip that it will misfire/bog out. Again No CEL's.

I am headed to a friends house to try swapping dizzy's, swapping plug wires, and potentially changing injectors.

I also reset the ECU when I was working on the fuel filter and plugs.

 

I would say check your plug wires since the other components seem to be OK. It's not unusual for spark to leak to ground under high load and you may not see the witness marks where they jumped from the wire to ground.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rob_dogg55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Vtech </TD></TR></TABLE>

you didn't...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you didn't... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I did **sigh**

Anyway, problem fixed. It lied within the Distributor king distributor. I couldnt figure it out beyond that point because you cant remove the rotor to check within. There is no screw on it to take out then remove the rotor. So with that said, Ive got an OEM dizzy on it now, problem fixed......Distributor king lasted 6 months

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rob_dogg55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I did **sigh**

Anyway, problem fixed. It lied within the Distributor king distributor. I couldnt figure it out beyond that point because you cant remove the rotor to check within. There is no screw on it to take out then remove the rotor. So with that said, Ive got an OEM dizzy on it now, problem fixed......Distributor king lasted 6 months </TD></TR></TABLE>


no screw? dang, i'd call them and ask them how the heck you are supposed to change the rotor on their stuff....

 

rotor just slides off if there is no set screw...dizzy king dizzy's fing suck! on average I'll go through 2-3 just to get one that works well and lasts more than 3 months

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92_civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rotor just slides off if there is no set screw...dizzy king dizzy's fing suck! on average I'll go through 2-3 just to get one that works well and lasts more than 3 months</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tried "sliding" it off, it would not budge period, and I wasnt going to ruin my lifetime warranty by breaking this inside that isnt a manufacturer defect

 

can somebody help me i got an external coil kit for my b18c but i cant figure out which wires i cut off the internal coil that lead into the distributor cap and re wire to the external coil help