Subwoofer not sounding great
First let me start of by saying that I do not own a Honda but I have found the people on this forum to be extremly helpful. I recently purchased 2 10 inch Kicker CompVR DVC (2 ohm coils) subwoofers and a Pioneer Gm7200-M amplifier. I have decided to run only one of the subs for the obvious reason that my amp is a mono-channel one. I am running a sealed enclosure. Is what do I need to do to get the sub to hit the lows a little harder. I can't hear the subwoofer's bass over my factory speakers in my suv. I have an Alpine CDE-9845 HU. My car is a 2002 Ford Escape XLT.
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From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
how do you have it hooked up to your radio? Is it pluged into the subwoofer output? Is the sub volume on the radio turned up ? Are the gains straight?
You have a 400W sub and an amp that is 250W RMS into 4 ohms or 360W RMS into 2 ohms, you are running one DVC 2 ohm sub, wired in series is 4 ohms, the amp only makes 250W at 4 ohms, if the VCs are wired in parallel you have a 1 ohm load and your amp is not stable below 2 ohms.
With that all said, and even though you are way "under-powered" the sub should sound OK with 250W RMS going to it, assuming everything is connected properly and the sub is in a proper box for that sub, [.8cuft sealed] or [1.25 cuft slot ported box].
However I would be looking for a bigger amp, [1x400W RMS into 4 ohms, one sub] or [800W RMS into 2 ohms, both subs]
The other option is to find a 250W 4 ohm sub.
94
With that all said, and even though you are way "under-powered" the sub should sound OK with 250W RMS going to it, assuming everything is connected properly and the sub is in a proper box for that sub, [.8cuft sealed] or [1.25 cuft slot ported box].
However I would be looking for a bigger amp, [1x400W RMS into 4 ohms, one sub] or [800W RMS into 2 ohms, both subs]
The other option is to find a 250W 4 ohm sub.
94
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> [800W RMS into 2 ohms, both subs]</TD></TR></TABLE>
umm...maybe i'm just shot cuz it's late for me but with 2 DVC subs with 2 ohm coils...couldn't you just wire them series-parallel and have the mono amp "see" a 2 ohm load overall?
2+2 in series=1st 4 ohm sub
2+2 in series=2nd 4 ohm sub
parallel 2 4 ohm subs=2 ohm mono...right?
you already have 2 subs so you might as well take advantage of the extra surface area that a second sub will provide. a higher power amp will cost you more money. just get an appropriately sized enclosure for both subs, wire them series-parallel, and tune it.
umm...maybe i'm just shot cuz it's late for me but with 2 DVC subs with 2 ohm coils...couldn't you just wire them series-parallel and have the mono amp "see" a 2 ohm load overall?
2+2 in series=1st 4 ohm sub
2+2 in series=2nd 4 ohm sub
parallel 2 4 ohm subs=2 ohm mono...right?
you already have 2 subs so you might as well take advantage of the extra surface area that a second sub will provide. a higher power amp will cost you more money. just get an appropriately sized enclosure for both subs, wire them series-parallel, and tune it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jz98ctr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
umm...maybe i'm just shot cuz it's late for me but with 2 DVC subs with 2 ohm coils...couldn't you just wire them series-parallel and have the mono amp "see" a 2 ohm load overall?</TD></TR></TABLE>
umm... just what I said, find an amp that makes 800W RMS into a 2 ohm load, "using" both subs
Yes they would be wired series/parallel, or for that matter parallel/series, final load is still 2 ohms, however you should always wire DVCs in series, [when possible].
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jz98ctr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you already have 2 subs so you might as well take advantage of the extra surface area that a second sub will provide. a higher power amp will cost you more money. just get an appropriately sized enclosure for both subs, wire them series-parallel, and tune it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your not suggesting he under-powers his subs even more then he already is are you?
400W continuous sub with a 250W RMS amp, [way under-powered]
800W continuous sub, [both subs] with a 360W RMS amp, [even more under-powered], the possible 3dB gain in SPL from doubling the cone area is far offset by even less power for either sub, and a increased chance of damage to VCs from over-driving the amp into constant clipping.
94
umm...maybe i'm just shot cuz it's late for me but with 2 DVC subs with 2 ohm coils...couldn't you just wire them series-parallel and have the mono amp "see" a 2 ohm load overall?</TD></TR></TABLE>
umm... just what I said, find an amp that makes 800W RMS into a 2 ohm load, "using" both subs
Yes they would be wired series/parallel, or for that matter parallel/series, final load is still 2 ohms, however you should always wire DVCs in series, [when possible].

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jz98ctr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you already have 2 subs so you might as well take advantage of the extra surface area that a second sub will provide. a higher power amp will cost you more money. just get an appropriately sized enclosure for both subs, wire them series-parallel, and tune it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your not suggesting he under-powers his subs even more then he already is are you?
400W continuous sub with a 250W RMS amp, [way under-powered]
800W continuous sub, [both subs] with a 360W RMS amp, [even more under-powered], the possible 3dB gain in SPL from doubling the cone area is far offset by even less power for either sub, and a increased chance of damage to VCs from over-driving the amp into constant clipping.
94
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it is hooked up to my subwoofer output on the head unit with a kicker ck4 amp kit. The sub is wire with 10 gauge wire. Is there a way to wire the single sub so that the amp sees a 2 ohm load? Thanks for all your help everybody!!!!!!!!!!
its a 2002 ford escape xlt. it is the one that is smaller than the explorer. my problem is that the factory speaker system consists of 5x7/6x8 component system in the front doors and 5x7/6x8 speakers in the door. the factory speakers boom like crazy even with the bass control on the head unit turned all the way down. i have the crossover set in the middle.
There is no way to wire a DVC 2 ohm sub into a 2 ohm load, You can wire the VCs in parallel for a 1 ohm load or in series for a 4 ohm load, your amp is not stable below 2 ohms.
What size is the box?
I would also be using an 8ga power and ground lead for that amp.
94
What size is the box?
I would also be using an 8ga power and ground lead for that amp.
94
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">umm... just what I said, find an amp that makes 800W RMS into a 2 ohm load, "using" both subs</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes...hence the
i gave you for suggesting it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your not suggesting he under-powers his subs even more then he already is are you?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes...yes i am...why you say?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti-eater »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">even under powered you should still hear it boom. </TD></TR></TABLE>
double the cone area=move more air
plus...he's already got 2 might as well use them. even if they are unpowered it'll still have more output than 1 sub with 2 times the power (same amp and same subs). say you're driving to your favorite tune and you wish you had just a little more sub-bass...but you don't have it. it's nice to know it's there when you want it. you can always turn it down...or off for that matter.
tis better to have and not need, then to need and not have.
yes...hence the
i gave you for suggesting it.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your not suggesting he under-powers his subs even more then he already is are you?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes...yes i am...why you say?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti-eater »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">even under powered you should still hear it boom. </TD></TR></TABLE>
double the cone area=move more air
plus...he's already got 2 might as well use them. even if they are unpowered it'll still have more output than 1 sub with 2 times the power (same amp and same subs). say you're driving to your favorite tune and you wish you had just a little more sub-bass...but you don't have it. it's nice to know it's there when you want it. you can always turn it down...or off for that matter.
tis better to have and not need, then to need and not have.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bspeeddemon2007 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a 2002 ford escape xlt. it is the one that is smaller than the explorer. my problem is that the factory speaker system consists of 5x7/6x8 component system in the front doors and 5x7/6x8 speakers in the door. the factory speakers boom like crazy even with the bass control on the head unit turned all the way down. i have the crossover set in the middle.</TD></TR></TABLE>
whereabouts do you have the enclosure in the vehicle?
what is the enclosures' orientation in the vehicle?
is it firing up? sideways? back?
whereabouts do you have the enclosure in the vehicle?
what is the enclosures' orientation in the vehicle?
is it firing up? sideways? back?
"yes...yes i am...why you say?" the amp is not 2x the wattage, [500W RMS] at 2 ohms, it is only 360W RMS, so you have even less power going to each sub, [180W RMS] and that will negate any advantage the extra cone area would give him, and increase the chances of driving the amp into clipping constantly and damaging the VCs of both subs.
bspeeddemon2007 About 1cuft???
What volume exactly, measure the box, [inside dimensions].
What shape is the box, is it custom or a pre-built?
94
bspeeddemon2007 About 1cuft???
What volume exactly, measure the box, [inside dimensions].
What shape is the box, is it custom or a pre-built?
94
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From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jz98ctr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
double the cone area=move more air
plus...he's already got 2 might as well use them. even if they are unpowered it'll still have more output than 1 sub with 2 times the power (same amp and same subs). say you're driving to your favorite tune and you wish you had just a little more sub-bass...but you don't have it. it's nice to know it's there when you want it. you can always turn it down...or off for that matter.
tis better to have and not need, then to need and not have.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
To a certaint extint. There is more going on in this problem. In that small suv you should hear that sub bass over the factory speakers. Op were do yu live?
double the cone area=move more air
plus...he's already got 2 might as well use them. even if they are unpowered it'll still have more output than 1 sub with 2 times the power (same amp and same subs). say you're driving to your favorite tune and you wish you had just a little more sub-bass...but you don't have it. it's nice to know it's there when you want it. you can always turn it down...or off for that matter.
tis better to have and not need, then to need and not have.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
To a certaint extint. There is more going on in this problem. In that small suv you should hear that sub bass over the factory speakers. Op were do yu live?
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