idk whats wrong with my car (97 ex). so about a week ago my car started messing up really bad. when its cold it starts up fine and runs cool and everything but after driving for like 10 or 15 min. it starts to sort of sputter or miss really bad. when idling and driving throught the low rpms the tach bounces around and it hella sputters. if i turn the car off and try and drive it again like 10 min later and it will be really hard to start. when i start it this way i give it some gas and it will start but will do that sputtering **** again. i changed the plugs, checked the cap and distributer, and pulled out the injectors. after putting the injectors back in it still does the same ****. idk what to do..ive been ****** around with this for the last few days and cant seen to figure it out..so i figured id come on here and se if i could get some help..so ya any help is GREATLY appriciated. thanks

 

um ya once it reaches opperating temperature thats when it starts messing up..i have no manual btw...what is "IACV"? i kno im suprised too...there is no cel coming on.

 

Are you gettng any check engine lights? The sputtering sounds TPS or MAP related. Ive had a similiar problem with sputtering, turned out to be a bad MAP sensor, and a loose TPS. Changed map and TPS, and it was like brand new.

 

ok..im gonna give that a try tomorrow and see how it goes..ill get back on here and let ya know...thanks for the help btw

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97Ej6mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you gettng any check engine lights? The sputtering sounds TPS or MAP related. Ive had a similiar problem with sputtering, turned out to be a bad MAP sensor, and a loose TPS. Changed map and TPS, and it was like brand new.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nope im not getting a cel..is it difficult to check/change MAP or TPS? any diys?

 

Don't start changing sensors that have absolutely nothing to do with ignition. If the car misfires, and the tach goes nuts, its the ignition system. Your BLK/YEL wire on your distributor may have a cut in it, or the connection it has to the coil may be corroded under the cap.

If you have a multimeter, its the best tool to have for stuff like this, and will pay off in the end. disconnect the distributor connector(s) and turn your ignition key to the ON (II) position. Take a voltage reading from the battery terminal + and the BLK/YEL wire on your distributor connector (engine side). It should read .5V or less, if it is near this limit or higher, perform the following test.

Turn the key to OFF and remove it. Set your meter to Ohms, and put one lead on the + battery terminal, and the other on the BLK/YEL wire on your distributor harness (engine side). There should be 1-6 Ohms of resistance, if there is more, you may have a break, or corrosion along that wire, if it was cut, check all of your cuts. Ensure the BLK/YEL wire is solidly connected to the coil without corrosion, also ensure the - screw is in good shape, and connected to the ICM.

Next to check would be the coil. Disconnect it and remove it from the distributor. Take a multimeter and set it to Ohms, put one lead on the + screw hole and the other on the - screw hole, you should have less than 5 Ohms. Now take your leads and place one on the spring terminal that sticks into the cap, and touch the other to the + and then to the - screw holes. Your reading should be around 16,000 Ohms, or 16K Ohms, depending on how the meter displays it. If your reading is much lower, the coil is shorted internally, and will require replacement, if it is excessively high (26,000 Ohms or more) replace the coil.

This is assuming your car has a good cap/rotor, good plug wires and a good plug gap.